Board logo

Hayabusa won't start
ptrxly - 8/4/06 at 02:15 AM

The big day finally arrived when I was to start up for the first time,
the Hayabusa engine in my Deman Motorsports Seven. Well, it cranked
over well, but did not run. The fuel pump runs with fuel going to the
fuel rail, there is power to the injectors and I have a good spark.
Tomorrow, I will put a pressure gauge on the line to the fuel rail
and check for the 43psi.
'Any ideas as what could be wrong?


Arjan356 - 8/4/06 at 06:32 AM

Hi,

I had a similar problem with my zx12.
After 2 min. of starting stil no fuel smell, turned out that I mixed up the feed and return hoses.

Succes


Hellfire - 8/4/06 at 06:01 PM

Sounds like a safety cut-out...


ptrxly - 9/4/06 at 01:24 PM

I checked the fuel pressure and it is right on 43psi at the fuel rail. So I have a spark, fuel, power to the injectors and it cranks over well. What sensors will tell the ECU to shut down the injector pulse circuit only? Most interlocks would stop the starter, ignition and fuel pump.
Any ideas? A bum ECU?


clutch_kick - 9/4/06 at 02:51 PM

Check the injector wiring harness, Make sure the injectors are actually spraying fuel.


gcamps1 - 9/2/07 at 01:56 PM

Hi.

I have exactly the same problem as you describe. I have good cranking, spark, fuel at the correct pressure and injecting etc.

What did you do to fix your problem?

Geoff.


iiyama - 9/2/07 at 04:00 PM

checked the side stand wiring and all the other little caveats? Reistors in place and doing their job?


gcamps1 - 9/2/07 at 04:12 PM

yup. gone through all that. Anything like sidestand switches, tip over switches etc would give an error and wont allow the bike to turn over.

Its injecting fuel, sparking, has good compression and the timing is spot on and it turns over well.

I'm stumped!


richard thomas - 9/2/07 at 04:12 PM

I had the same...head scratching for a while..

Resistors needed for the side stand switch, tip over sensor and ignition switch (anti theft) circuits, earth the clutch switch.

If i remember correctly the ignition switch one caught me out, doesn't allow the injectors to squirt. Try tipping a little fuel into the throttle bodies, if she fires then that's the one.

Fingers crossed...

[Edited on 9/2/07 by richard thomas]


gcamps1 - 9/2/07 at 04:16 PM

I have put resistors of the correct values in. And if it was one of these switches it wouldn't turn over at all... or would it???


DIY Si - 9/2/07 at 04:23 PM

Depending upon how the safety cut outs work, it could turn off and prime the rail, but not actually spray any fuel. Try taking the rail off or an injector if poss and see if it sprays fuel or not.


richard thomas - 9/2/07 at 04:24 PM

Yes, i'm almost certain that mine was turning over with the fuel pump running and the plugs sparking but not firing up. It was the ignition switch resistor that is not shown in the Haynes book wiring diagram that threw me out. 100K ohms i think...

[Edited on 9/2/07 by richard thomas]


gcamps1 - 9/2/07 at 04:25 PM

with no air-filter fitted you can see it injecting fuel.


gcamps1 - 9/2/07 at 04:26 PM

i will look into the ignition resistor. Thanks.


richard thomas - 9/2/07 at 05:00 PM

So far as i know it's just an anti theft thing - the ECU looks for a rststance through the ignition switch circuit to prevent the bike being hotwired. on the bike the resistor is built into the key barrel itself. Thats what threw me, i had replaced the bike barrel with a sierra one and not built the resistor back in.


gcamps1 - 9/2/07 at 05:04 PM

I have put 2 resistors in. They might have been for the tilt sensor and side stand switch - but I cant remeber now... It may have been the ignition... I will check.


yahshuatwo - 7/5/07 at 06:01 PM

What resistors are requires and which wires from the Hayabusa ignition barrel require surgery?


bike_power - 7/5/07 at 09:17 PM

Yo don't need a resistor physically in the barrel, just in the wires that used to go to it on the bike:

Tilt takes a 68Kohm resistor

Side stand takes a jumper

Clutch lever position takes a jumper

ECU needs a 150ohm resistor between O/Y and B/W (This is the ignition bypass)

Engine stop switch takes a jumper

This worked on a 2002 loom.

It's really obvious if you've got fuel being injected, you can smell it if you open the butterflies after 10s of cranking. Don't look down the throttle bodies whilst cranking incase it backfires, unless you fancy a quick shave and a white stick.

To see a spark you need to take the plug out and rest it against the engine or chassis to get an earth, should see a nice blue spark.

If you get spark and fuel but no start then it's either a duff ECU or the crank/cam sensors are either not connected, damaged wires/sensors so the spark is in the wrong place. (You should still get the occasional bang as it ignites residual charge) If the map and temp sensors are faulty it won't stop it starting, just make it run like a dog.

Also, if your battery isn't 100% the ECU can see too little voltage for it to function properly whilst cranking, get a big car battery in parallel to see if that helps.


yahshuatwo - 7/5/07 at 10:03 PM

Thanks Bike_power!

I reckon the only thing I need is the 150ohm resistor between the ecu wiring.

I have the tilt senor, the kickstand,clutch, and etc are working. I'm at the point where the sierra ignition is wires to start/turn-over the engine, and it runs.

Nevertheless, I still need to wire things where I don't need the Hayabus ignition barrel as a "on' switch.

check this site out. www.moller.com


ptrxly - 7/5/07 at 10:49 PM

The problem with my 'Busa was that because it had not been run for at least a year and a half, the injectors had plugged up. I soaked them overnight in carb cleaner then "tickled" them ( a couple of hundred instantaneous pulses)with 12V until I could hear them click followed by another overnight soak and more "tickling". It started instantly and ran smoothly after that.
Good luck,
Peter


gcamps1 - 8/5/07 at 08:30 AM

I found the problem with mine...

The engine is a 2004 from the states. As with a lot of these engines it had come from a crashed bike.

The alternator rotor has notches on the outside for the crankshaft position sensor.

Pre 2002 bikes have 8 notches, and newer ones have more (12 from what i remember).

In reparing my engine someone used a rotor from an early bike... so my timing didn't have a hope in hell!

So I found and fixed this problem and now she runs a treat! Good job to as my SVA is in a couple of weeks.

Also, FYI, It looks like the hayabusa will meet the SVA emissions by just turning the fuel pressure down from 43psi to 35psi. Don't leave it at 35psi though as you will fry your engine!


iiyama - 8/5/07 at 05:36 PM

Is that with or without a cat??


GeoffCamps - 8/5/07 at 05:48 PM

with.

As far as i know it is impossible without.

I took mine down the local garage to check it out with the sva a few weeks away.

at 43 psi it failed. Then emissions machine packed up. 2 hours later they found the probe had been melted! Then at 35 psi it passed.

MOT in a week so will be able to double check emissions before SVA.

[Edited on 8/5/07 by GeoffCamps]


iiyama - 8/5/07 at 05:52 PM

OK dumb question time!

Hayabusa's are still made arnt they? How do they get through emissions? Or are the bike tests different to cars? Thinking about it dont think my bike had an emissions test last MOT....


bike_power - 8/5/07 at 06:36 PM

Glad you got it fixed in the end Geoff. That would have taken most people a long time to find !

I got mine through by lowering the fuel pressure and using a cat. Have to get it very hot before the test, try turning the temperature that the fan comes on at to a higher temp, I had mine set to just over 100C I think rather than the 96 or so it's set to now.

Bike emissions testing is I believe less stringent than for cars but my engine had a lambda sensor fitted from the factory and one of the exhaust pipes had a very small cat in it, quite loose compared to the usual car stuff.


yahshuatwo - 10/5/07 at 01:14 AM

bike_power

what about the gray and orange from the barrel? I know the red is hot-positive


yahshuatwo - 10/5/07 at 01:16 AM

Oh I mean the gray and brown? the Red and solid orange are the main power leads


yahshuatwo - 10/5/07 at 03:23 AM

I figured it out on the 02' Busa engine and 88' Sierra(uk)/Merkur(usa) ignition

Busa Ignition------------------Sierra Ignition
-------------------------------------------------
Red ------------------------->>>> small Red
Orange ----------------------->>Big Black

Gray/Brown [jumpered]
O/Y & Blk/W [150ohm resistor]

Busa starter/Kill sw----------Sierra Ignition
-------------------------------------------------
O/W ------------------> Brown
Y/Gr --------------------> Big Blk/Y

O/W & O/Blk [jumpered for busa fuel pump]

Works just like Sierra car engine start-up except the accessories switch position doesn't do anything

key positions:
1. Off - no power
2. Accessories - no power
3. On -- Busa gauges and fuel pump on
4. Starter - Busa turns over

Yahshuatwo - "The All in All and that's All!"



[Edited on 10/5/07 by yahshuatwo]