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Couple of brake questions
Rob55 - 15/11/12 at 12:20 PM

I'm building a racing Westie, first time build and never raced before, so have a couple of questions.

1. I have separate master cylinders and a bias pedal. Is this enough to set the correct front rear balance, or should I also fit an inline bias adjustor to turn down the rears if the car gets sketchy on race day?

2. I need a cable handbrake, but most of them I have seen look rubbish. Any ideas on where I could get something that looks decent with a "motorsport look" rather than something pulled out of a saloon car?

3. I assume a separate hydraulic hand brake is of no real use to me for circuits and hills?

Cheers and sorry if any of these seem glaringly obvious

[Edited on 15/11/12 by Rob55]

[Edited on 15/11/12 by Rob55]


minitici - 15/11/12 at 12:38 PM

A handbrake on a racing car - next you will be wanting an ash tray and cup holder

You would only need a handbrake if you are entering a road going class.


loggyboy - 15/11/12 at 12:46 PM

1. Depends on the natural balance of the M/C and calipers. Ideally if spec'd right the brakes should generally be good with the bias bar set close to 50/50, with only minor tweaks needed to suit weather, track, tyre conditions etc.
If you find you have to wind it all way in one direction all the time, then a inline one would allow you to adjust back so the bias bar can give you the small tweaks.

2. There are 100 types of cable style out there, its more down to the caliper/disc/drum style that makes more of a difference.

3. Indeed, I cant imagine the use of a hydraulic outside rallying/autotesting.


Rob55 - 15/11/12 at 12:59 PM

Sorry I should have said that whilst it is a racing car I will also be putting it through the dreaded IVA, hence handbrake.


eddie99 - 15/11/12 at 01:13 PM

quote:
Originally posted by Rob55
I'm building a racing Westie, first time build and never raced before, so have a couple of questions.

1. I have separate master cylinders and a bias pedal. Is this enough to set the correct front rear balance, or should I also fit an inline bias adjustor to turn down the rears if the car gets sketchy on race day?

2. I need a cable handbrake, but most of them I have seen look rubbish. Any ideas on where I could get something that looks decent with a "motorsport look" rather than something pulled out of a saloon car?

3. I assume a separate hydraulic hand brake is of no real use to me for circuits and hills?

Cheers and sorry if any of these seem glaringly obvious

[Edited on 15/11/12 by Rob55]

[Edited on 15/11/12 by Rob55]


If master cylinders are specced correctly then a bias bar should be able to adjust the final fr/rear balance enough, normally a wet/dry bias change is a couple of turns maximum.....

When you say you need a cable handbrake, do you mean caliper or handbrake mechanism for the driver to activate?

Seperate hydraulic hand brake might be more use to you on any hills, but not on circuits.


Rob55 - 15/11/12 at 01:27 PM

quote:
Originally posted by eddie99When you say you need a cable handbrake, do you mean caliper or handbrake mechanism for the driver to activate?


I mean the handbrake lever itself, I can't seem to find any that look aesthetically good (already have Golf GTI rear calipers and cables)


eddie99 - 15/11/12 at 01:43 PM

Yeah there isnt much on the market apart from the likes of AP do them for hydraulic but not for cable. Get an escort one and put a new handle on it and hide it tends to be the most common approach.


loggyboy - 15/11/12 at 02:18 PM

Rally design do a faily simple handbrake for about £20 IIRC

[Edited on 15-11-12 by loggyboy]


Chippy - 15/11/12 at 02:52 PM

If you are going to IVA it, then a hydraulic handbrake is a definate fail. HTH Ray


renetom - 15/11/12 at 04:55 PM

Hi
I think you will need to go along way to find a pretty handbrake lever.
We just used a sierra handbrake lever (Has the switch on it which is needed )with a leather gaiter and nice aly handle.
Adjustable bias valve is an absolute no no for IVA.
Even your twin cylinders will have to be locked down.
This is an extract from iva manual.
26.
It must not be possible to manually adjust braking rates between axles see note 4 and 5
27.
Vehicles fitted with adjustable twin master cylinders that have been rendered inoperable by mechanical means to comply with RS 26 must have a label affixed on the master cylinder or the immediate vicinity with legible text as detailed in note 6.

We have an automatic bias valve in the rear lines , which stops the rears from locking before the fronts,does the job for us.
You definitely need to study the IVA manual & build your car to comply at every stage of the build,does not cost any more
and will save you having to re-do jobs at a later stage in the build .
If you send me a utu with your email I will send you a copy. its version 08-11 you will need to check if it is the latest version.
Good luck
René


Rob55 - 15/11/12 at 05:13 PM

Hi - thanks for the advice re IVA, I have the manual already and am well aware that a bias valve, hydraulic hand brake and adjustable bias pedal are all taboo.

I plan to lock off the adjustment in my pedal and fit iva complient stickers (LOL) which warn me not to adjust it. As for the hydraulic handbrake and bias valve, seems they are not needed anyway


tul214 - 15/11/12 at 08:09 PM

Handbrake here


Rob55 - 15/11/12 at 10:48 PM

quote:
Originally posted by tul214
Handbrake here


You sir, are a legend!


Rob55 - 16/11/12 at 09:55 AM

Also found this one which is rather nice, and has the brake switch included plus looks a little more IVA friendly


Rob55 - 26/11/12 at 08:23 PM

quote:
Originally posted by tul214
Handbrake here


Purchased! Direct sierra fitment complete with warning switch. Mint