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Flippin 'eck,,, How heavy
karlak - 4/9/11 at 03:58 PM

I remember seeing the paperwork when I bought my MK Indy that it had a not of the weight.

Found it out today and nearly fell over when I saw on the VOSA approval certificate the following -

Axle 1 - 400 KG
Axle 2 - 550 KG


Gross Weigt - 950 KG.


Now I know it had a Pinto in but bloomin 'eck.


Luckily, I then found the actual SVA brake/weight Distribution Report.

Without Driver -

Axle 1 - 340 KG
Axle 2 - 306 KG



So, I am guessing that this was the tested weight and the top is the Vehicle approval for max weight on the road.


I didnt think 646 KG was too bad for a Pinto engined car without any trick bits and I think it had some heavier Wheels than it does now as well.

Will be interesting to see what it is when I have the Duratec in. I guess that is at least 40kg lighter than the Pinto and that does not include the saving in the Alloy Bellhousing as well. I can see how chasing the lightness could become an obsession


jacko - 4/9/11 at 04:29 PM

And cost lots and lots of money for that little bit of extra power


big_wasa - 4/9/11 at 04:36 PM

Those are design weights not the actual weight.


iank - 4/9/11 at 04:54 PM

Yes the first two are the design weights, the second ones are the ones they measured. BUT sadly you can't just add those and get an accurate figure for the weight of the car as they only weigh one end at a time. Only way is a weighbridge (usually within 10kg) or cornerweight scales which you can add up as they are on all 4 wheels at once.

If you are really picky about weight then you want a BEC (and fwd or mid-engine to save the weight of the prop and sierra diff). Then you can start the real work (down to chopping each bolt down to exactly the right length).


Fred W B - 4/9/11 at 05:19 PM

Just for the sake of the discussion, you could weigh each end of a car separately and add them to get the total, provided the car is exactly horizontal when on the scales.

If you had access to two wheel scales, you could use a jack and a sprit level to level the car to get an accurate weight for the front and rear.

Cheers

Fred W B


iank - 4/9/11 at 05:45 PM

quote:
Originally posted by Fred W B
Just for the sake of the discussion, you could weigh each end of a car separately and add them to get the total, provided the car is exactly horizontal when on the scales.

If you had access to two wheel scales, you could use a jack and a sprit level to level the car to get an accurate weight for the front and rear.

Cheers

Fred W B


Indeed - I simplified the discussion, but the SVA/IVA machines don't keep the car horizontal so the figures you get on the forms can't be simply added unfortunately.


greggors84 - 4/9/11 at 06:03 PM

They are the weights MK give you in the build manual, I think if they weigh the car at SVA at its over the design weights its a fail. They give you ridiculously high weights to be safe.


matt_gsxr - 4/9/11 at 07:05 PM

quote:
Originally posted by iank
quote:
Originally posted by Fred W B
Just for the sake of the discussion, you could weigh each end of a car separately and add them to get the total, provided the car is exactly horizontal when on the scales.

If you had access to two wheel scales, you could use a jack and a sprit level to level the car to get an accurate weight for the front and rear.

Cheers

Fred W B


Indeed - I simplified the discussion, but the SVA/IVA machines don't keep the car horizontal so the figures you get on the forms can't be simply added unfortunately.


The good news is that the IVA rollers are normally lower than the ground level, so if you do add up the weights from each end you will OVER estimate the weight of your car (think of it as tipping the centre of mass towards the lower axle). So you are lighter already.

Matt