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mx5 upright
jon b - 29/1/09 at 06:47 PM

Please help, can any one tell me what top joint to use, herd it's transit but what jont & age please. jon


airframefixer - 29/1/09 at 07:12 PM

Moog ES2074R is the Part you want. Its for a Ford Courier/MazdaB2000 Truck.

Andrew


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Bob C - 29/1/09 at 07:16 PM

Wish I'd known that 3 years ago....... ;^)
Reamed mine out for the transit drag link...


alistairolsen - 29/1/09 at 08:32 PM

what thread is that?

guess its too much to hope for that its m18x1.5?

cheers


jon b - 29/1/09 at 10:39 PM

many many thanks. jon


bigrich - 29/1/09 at 10:41 PM

A quick search says M16 x 1.5mm


alistairolsen - 31/1/09 at 02:32 AM

bigrich: A part of me panics about going down from 18 to 16 but I guess it will be ok.......

Airframefixer: Where is that pic from? Do you know what rack was used and if there were any issues with clearance between the steering arms and the lower wishbones?

Cheers!


liam.mccaffrey - 1/2/09 at 11:05 AM

M16x1,5 it is and Moog ES2074R

when I did it I used a MK2 escort rack, MX5 balljoints and rack extension/adapter pieces

[Edited on 1/2/09 by liam.mccaffrey]


alistairolsen - 3/2/09 at 08:17 PM

bump

Bob Carter used a shortened escort rack to avoid the bump steer, but he remachined the uprights to take the drag links from above.

Has anyone who had mounted the track rod ends from below suffered any clearance issues with the wishbones? How much did you shorten the rack by?

Cheers


l0rd - 3/2/09 at 10:52 PM

Does anyone know what year Mazda B2000 is this from?


liam.mccaffrey - 3/2/09 at 11:06 PM

I mounted the original mx5 drag links from underneath and there were no clearance issue with the bones


Bob C - 4/2/09 at 12:06 AM

yep - that's another thing I'd do differently if I were doing it again... It'll still be worth shortening the rack tho' ;^)


C10CoryM - 4/2/09 at 01:30 AM

Seeing as those are tie-rod ends, are they acceptable for use as a balljoint? I've never seen a tie rod that is cupped on both ends. Meaning that one will deal with the forces of trying to pull the ball out of the end, but is it designed to have the ball pushed inwards?


l0rd - 4/2/09 at 09:07 AM

I can only think that as they are made for pick up trucks which are prawn to be abused, i would imagine that they are strong enough for the job.


Bob C - 4/2/09 at 11:12 PM

it's upper wishbone - the only ball in/out force is what's needed to swivel the wishbone pivots on the chassis.
Also it could not be more equivalent to the transit tie rod used in the classical locost......

[Edited on 4/2/09 by Bob C]


C10CoryM - 5/2/09 at 01:14 AM

Well, if it works it works. At worst the balljoint would seperate but it wouldnt pull out. Unless you were flat out it's not going to crash you.

I just know how little holds some tie rods together so question using them as a upper balljoint. Especially with sticky, or rubber control arm bushings.
Most of them if you support the body, and give the pivot a little tap inwards will separate quite easily.


alistairolsen - 13/2/09 at 01:00 PM

Right, went to the factors last night and the only balljoints for a mazda B2000 were remale thread ones like big track rod ends.

Does anyone have an equivalent Quinton Hazel part number, or a model and year?

Cheers


alistairolsen - 19/2/09 at 02:22 PM

anyone?


airframefixer - 20/2/09 at 07:37 PM

alistairolsen

Sorry, been a while since I checked this thread. My build is a BEC middy. The ES2074R is a common solution in North America. see my build log here for more info on the front suspension
http://www.locostusa.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=36&t=2142


Andrew





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alistairolsen - 24/2/09 at 11:20 PM

had a long read thru your site the other night, looks like an amazing build!

The SDV westfield boys use these:







Im not sure what they are from originally but they look a little more chunky.

Anyone make head or tail of the part number?


alistairolsen - 26/2/09 at 04:18 PM

bump, anyone recognise the box, or have a lead on the part number? I tried it in google but beyond that Im out of inspiration!

Cheers


alistairolsen - 28/2/09 at 12:18 PM

ok, went to maccess today. Looking through the parts book, all bmw drag links run a 12.6mm cone, so I assume this is correct. They come with two thread sizes, M14 and M16.

The larger M16x1.5 came fitted to E23 7 Series and old 2002s and it part number QR1786S for the right hand thread.


l0rd - 18/6/09 at 08:17 AM

quote:
Originally posted by alistairolsen
ok, went to maccess today. Looking through the parts book, all bmw drag links run a 12.6mm cone, so I assume this is correct. They come with two thread sizes, M14 and M16.

The larger M16x1.5 came fitted to E23 7 Series and old 2002s and it part number QR1786S for the right hand thread.


Silly but have to ask.

2 of these should do the job? or do i nead a left hand and a right hand thread?


alistairolsen - 18/6/09 at 06:07 PM

two right hand


l0rd - 18/6/09 at 10:32 PM

Thank you. Do you remember a price for them?

How did you check it?


alistairolsen - 19/6/09 at 07:22 AM

I havent found anywhere with them in stock yet to get any! I also havent therefore test fitted them!


Nisseven - 11/2/10 at 10:10 AM

Hi Guys,
Just found this thread and have been looking for just this information. The ones that I was told to use were Toyota Landcruiser P/N SE2612 but on closer inspection found that they were M17 x 1.5 thread, which is bit weird. It is possible to purchase M17 taps but I'd sooner deal with something more useful such as M16 or 18.
Bruce