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Xflow Blue Smoking
TheHighlander123 - 29/7/16 at 10:28 AM

Hi All,

Just got my XFLOW back from being rebuilt.

It got

New crankshaft
Conrod x 1
Piston ring set
Full bearing set
Headgasket
Twin 40s tuned


Anyway I have it back and have done 350 miles and its blue smoking when...

On idle - NO SMOKE
Give it a rev and it gives a puff of blue smoke
When driving if you drop a gear and give it some it has a puff and thats it.

It does not constant blue smoke.

Should I be concerned - Its NOT burning oil.


CosKev3 - 29/7/16 at 11:12 AM

It must be burning some oil to produce blue smoke.

What oil are you running it in on?(hoping you will say mineral or proper running in oil?)

Have the bores been honed?

When the carbs were tuned did they run it up on the rollers to check AFR's,could be running a bit rich and causing bore wash?

If it's not burning enough oil for you to notice it's useage on the dipstick I would be inclined to run it in fully and then see how it us.

[Edited on 29/7/16 by CosKev3]


TheHighlander123 - 29/7/16 at 12:29 PM

Bores didn't need honed, there was no damaged to the bores or pistons.

The crank has a crank in it and the bearing had damaged the seat in the conrod.

10/40 semi synthetic, he is a XFLOW specialist the lad who has done it (Ricky Gauld Performance)

Oil level is reading fine.


CosKev3 - 29/7/16 at 01:03 PM

The place I use for engine work says bores should always be honed atleast,so the rings have flat surface to bed into.

Also I wouldn't be running it on semi-synthetic oil,Google running in.
Mineral oil or running oil should be used whilst the rings bed into the bores.


Norfolkluegojnr - 29/7/16 at 01:42 PM

quote:
Originally posted by TheHighlander123
Bores didn't need honed, there was no damaged to the bores or pistons.

The crank has a crank in it and the bearing had damaged the seat in the conrod.

10/40 semi synthetic, he is a XFLOW specialist the lad who has done it (Ricky Gauld Performance)

Oil level is reading fine.



Thats thin oil for a crossflow. I've always understood that 20w/50 full mineral is best. I believe Duckhams is what you need.


britishtrident - 29/7/16 at 03:00 PM

How is Ricky it must be 20+ years since I last saw him There is an excellent in car video of him Imping round Jolly Knockers -- perfect lap

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=DnXY9f3FrS8

[Edited on 29/7/16 by britishtrident]


mcramsay - 29/7/16 at 03:21 PM

I don't know who built your engine but you always gone the bore if putting new rings in..... You need a good surface for the new rings to bed into and seal against. Not saying that is 100% your problem but I can't see why they would strip the engine that far and not hone the bores....


steve m - 29/7/16 at 04:16 PM

Cross flows either leak oil, or drink oil, and I wish mine drank it !

also, I am pretty sure, you should be using a good 20/50 mineral oil, as 10/40 is to thin, and a crossflow will never get run in using synthetic oil

steve


rusty nuts - 29/7/16 at 05:34 PM

Cylinder bores should always be honed if fitting new rings to clear any glazing which stops new rings bedding in , also a good point about the oil . Not a bad idea to use cheap oil when first running a new engine until everything is bedded in before changing to a better oil. Personally I would use a good quality 20/50 as already suggested in a Xflow , the machining tolerances are not what would be acceptable on a modern engine like a Zetec


Brian R - 29/7/16 at 09:50 PM

We use Comma Classic 20/50 when running in the 1300 xflows in the race cars.

COMMA CLASSIC 20W/50 ENGINE MOTOR OIL 5 LITRE TIN -- FREE TRACKED POST

Never had a problem with smoke or similar.

Running in would consist of four or five morning trackday sessions gradually building the revs and stint length. Lunchtime we would change the oil to Valvoline VR1 20/50 then go out and rag it!

Valvoline VR1 Racing 20W-50 Highly Refined Car Engine Motor Oil 5L 5Litre

The engines were always strong and we never had one let go.


TheHighlander123 - 29/7/16 at 09:52 PM

Thanks for all the comments

I spoke to him today and he said the oil that's in it will be fine for it he's always used that grade of oil.

It's not smoking bad it may sound like it the way I've typed it. I will get a gopro video tomorrow or Sunday and show you all that maybe easier.


LBMEFM - 30/7/16 at 05:07 AM

Also don't forget to ask him why he did not hone the bores as this is best practice for new rings. Have a look at the plugs to see if they are oily too.


Adamirish - 31/7/16 at 12:44 AM

Has the head been modified to accept proper valve guides? Rather than just being cast into the head I mean. The guy who built my head also told me that if they are run with the umbrella type stem seals, any play at all in the guides and a little oil will run down the valve stem and burn off. For future reference, VW 1.8t valve stem seals are a perfect fit for a Xflow with bronze guides and double valve springs.

My engine is perfect and strong yet chucks out a puff of blue smoke when it's started. I've convinced myself it's just self lubing.

I also agree with the above, run it on valvoline vr1 20/50. Available from burton power.


TheHighlander123 - 31/7/16 at 08:37 PM

It's not smoking as much now BUT after listening to you all and doing some research I have ordered some 20/50 oil.


MikeRJ - 31/7/16 at 11:26 PM

You must have bores honed when fitting new rings. It's nothing to do with fixing damage, it's required to remove bore glazing and the honed finish is required for new piston rings to form a good seal.


TheHighlander123 - 1/8/16 at 08:12 AM

I can confirm the bores have been honed, I just assumed they hadn't been as it wasn't on the invoice, its down as "engine work". So all is good.

Head is modified for the big valves and piston tops modified also.

Hardly any blue smoke now, car is running very well, will do an oil change tonight or tomorrow after work.

[Edited on 1/8/16 by TheHighlander123]