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Utahfab - 15/2/17 at 08:53 PM

I have a cast stainless turbo manifold I've developed for Suzuki Hayabusa motors and I'd like to post info about it though I don't want to do so without getting permission and/or sponsoring the site. I emailed Chris nearly a week ago though I haven't heard back.

Any suggestions?

Thank you
Billy Nichols
fabhabit.com


computid - 15/2/17 at 10:14 PM

Just wait, Chris is a busy guy. He'll likely get back to when he can


steve m - 15/2/17 at 10:36 PM

Is it even possible to cast a stainless turbo manifold ?


Utahfab - 15/2/17 at 10:40 PM

I'll wait for Chris' reply.

Thanks
Billy


Utahfab - 15/2/17 at 10:45 PM

Yes, investment cast. Check out my photos to see how it came out.

Thanks
Billly


loggyboy - 15/2/17 at 11:01 PM

Post up the details anyway. As you thought to ask I suspect there wont be an issue with a post dated trader payment when Chris is available.


Utahfab - 15/2/17 at 11:14 PM

Ok loggyboy, thanks. Here goes!

If anyone is building a turbo Hayabusa I have a cast turbo manifold I've developed.

• T3 turbo exhaust manifold for Suzuki Hayabusa motors
• Designed for a bike so the turbo is tucked in tight. It does clear the oil filter
• Smooth equal radius bends
• True merge collector
• Lowest back pressure and best flow possible
• Constructed of 347 Stainless Steel
• Thick main flange/spigot support
• 3mm (.118”) thick tubes
• 15mm thick turbo flange
• Smooth equal radius bends – A smoother shape equals more flow and less back pressure/pressure drop
• True merge collector - All tubes are aimed at the turbo inlet
• Lowest back pressure and best flow possible – pressure and flow go together for less heat and more power
• Investment cast – Consistent shape and quality with NO welds
• Constructed of 347 Stainless Steel – Better strength and better high temp corrosion resistance
• All junctions feature ample filets – More details for the absolute best strength
• Thick main flange/spigot support – Assures a perfect, consistent fit
• 3mm (.118”) thick tubes – Overkill for the strongest available
• 15mm thick turbo flange – extra heavy for the best stability and zero warping
• Cylinder 1 & 4 upper/outer mount holes are slightly over sized to 9mm - Allows for expansion and contraction without breaking studs
• Lower mounting holes are slotted – Allows for easier insertion of mounting bolts
• Turbo mount threads (10 x 1.5) are produced with a thread forming tap – Formed threads are stronger than cut threads

I have posted a few pictures in the Photo Archive.

They're $1,250 USD

Please contact me with any questions or see my site, fabhabit.com

Thank you
Billy
Fab Habit
Salt Lake City, Utah


nick205 - 16/2/17 at 10:38 AM

As above "ChrisW" is the chap you need to contact. I believe he does LCB as a sideline to his day job so it may take him a few days to come back to you.


MikeRJ - 17/2/17 at 12:27 PM

Looks like a beautifully made bit of kit


Utahfab - 17/2/17 at 05:56 PM

quote:
Originally posted by MikeRJ
Looks like a beautifully made bit of kit


I've tried to cover all the bases.

Thanks
Billy


obr_technology - 17/2/17 at 10:19 PM

Looks like a lovely piece of kit.

Have you got any videos/Dyno graphs to show the difference between this and other installations? Might help the sales pitch?


BenB - 17/2/17 at 10:44 PM

That certainly puts the investment back in investment cast. Yikes!


Utahfab - 18/2/17 at 12:23 AM

quote:
Originally posted by obr_technology
Looks like a lovely piece of kit.

Have you got any videos/Dyno graphs to show the difference between this and other installations? Might help the sales pitch?


Thank you

Dyno, it worked great (made more HP than expected) though no real A/B comparisons to be able to give you numbers I can stand behind.

Manifold vs. manifold. So far we've been able to compare it to one welded version on a flow bench. A friend, Scott Horner at Heads Up Performance, here in Salt Lake City builds turbo Busa motors for Bonneville/LSR bikes (multiple world records) and sand rails. He has a manifold he's always used for his kits that he had fabricated by a guy in Southern California. It’s a well-built version of a welded manifold. He ran both on a flow bench (I build velocity stacks for the manifolds so as to more accurately gauge their flow). On a flow bench you’re usually looking for less vacuum and more flow.

The welded version flowed 309.2 cfm (8,755 liters per minute?) at 2.46” of vacuum.
This cast version flowed 388.8 cfm (11,009 liters per minute) at 1.75” of vacuum.

The comparison shows this manifold had 26% more flow at 29% less pressure.

Also, please note that it has a true collector with all tubes aimed directly at the turbo. Many welded versions (Please remember this was designed to fit the very compact restrictions of a motorcycle) end up with 1 & 4 pointing more at each other than at the inlet of the turbo.

Investment cast 347 stainless - With the high temps a turbo manifold experiences standard steel rusts quickly. Stainless is better though it tends to crack around welds. Cast stainless you get the positive without the negative. 347 has better high temp corrosion resistance than 304 or 321.

Please post any and all additional questions.

Thanks
Billy
fabhabit.com


obr_technology - 18/2/17 at 09:04 PM

Thanks, I'll send you a U2U.


obr_technology - 21/2/17 at 11:15 PM

Hi Billy,

I believe you would stand a better chance of selling these manifolds if you can show the performance gains through some direct comparisons.

We have some well established companies in the U.K. Selling full turbo conversions for Hayabusas. One of which is Holeshot racing, who advertise their manifold for between 550 and 700 pounds for upto 700hp. Obviously these units have been proven through land speed records so people know they can rely on their design.

Your design, material and manufacturing process sound like they are far superior to the widely available products so should sell well but with the current exchange rate your's has become a lot more expensive so providing proof of the performance gains would be something I'd suggest would be a good step for you.

Anyway, this is only my opinion and not based on anything more than my limited experience so I won't be offended if you ignore!

Good luck with the product, it looks fantastic quality.

Cheers

Olly


Utahfab - 22/2/17 at 03:37 PM

quote:
Originally posted by obr_technology
Hi Billy,

I believe you would stand a better chance of selling these manifolds if you can show the performance gains through some direct comparisons.

We have some well established companies in the U.K. Selling full turbo conversions for Hayabusas. One of which is Holeshot racing, who advertise their manifold for between 550 and 700 pounds for upto 700hp. Obviously these units have been proven through land speed records so people know they can rely on their design.

Your design, material and manufacturing process sound like they are far superior to the widely available products so should sell well but with the current exchange rate your's has become a lot more expensive so providing proof of the performance gains would be something I'd suggest would be a good step for you.

Anyway, this is only my opinion and not based on anything more than my limited experience so I won't be offended if you ignore!

Good luck with the product, it looks fantastic quality.

Cheers

Olly


Olly,

Thank you for the feedback and compliment.

I would love to have a true A/B comparison though in this case, dyno wise, it's hard to get. My manifold places the turbo in the same position as the welded one developed by Scott Horner @ Heads Up Performance hence I can only get an A/B comparison in replacing one of his welded ones. He's installed several and it's been great though they've been new installs with no old manifold to compare to.

For others like Hole Shot it would not be a direct replacement, requiring a new exhaust and charge tube for the swap.

In my humble opinion, In the end, with a turbo manifold not being "tuned" for length it truly comes down to less back pressure and more flow. From what we've been able to test mine is better on both fronts. If we get the chance we’d love to compare it on the flow bench to other options. On the other hand I don’t want to get in a bashing match against someone else’s product. I won’t bad mouth them, I’ll just state that I’ve invested a lot to build a better one and in my opinion, I’ve succeeded.

There are nice welded versions out there though not for sale at the price you list. To flow like mine it would have to be made with many sections, the tubes fitted perfectly, great welds and extra time cleaning up the inside. I've seen one welded example that was beautiful though the builder sells them for $3,000 USD. Also, please check what their offering is made of. Stainless? Most I’ve seen are 304 stainless with which you can still have corrosion issues. Better is 321 though at a big premium in price, maybe more than mine. My manifold is 347 which is another step up the stainless steel ladder in both performance and price.

Also, a big point is that it is designed to improve performance AND eliminate the far too common problem of cracking. For that, there is no comparison between a welded and a cast version.

Thank you again for your compliment and the feedback.

Thank you
Billy
Fabhabit.com


obr_technology - 23/2/17 at 06:35 AM

Thanks Billy, good luck with the project.