Hi all, as above really, I'm embarking on an engine change from my xflow top a blacktop zetec. I've sourced the bare engine and have now fitted an ERA sump. So i now need a suitable flywheel and clutch setup suitable to fit with my type9 rs2000 alloy bellhousing.
So can anyone help with this? I've missed a few cheap ones on facebook and can't find anything decent and locost on ebay

Jason

Surrey

More than one way to do it. Get a 1.8 flywhee and have drilled for the pinto clutch or 1.8 flywheel With the correct early Mondeo clutch ( there are different ones ) and use the longer 133 thrust bearing.

Zetec’s are used in Banger racing now and they buy the 1.8’s just for the flywheels.

Cheers for the info, I'll keep looking for the flywheel and wait until then to see what the next step is

Jason

The other option is a 1.8 CVH flywheel, clutch and starter. This has advantages and disadvantages. On the plus side it's a lot lighter than any Zetec flywheel, but one the minus side there are no drillings for the crank position sensor so a seperate front mounted wheel & sensor is needed.

I have this setup and it works really well, though not with an RS2000 bellhousing.

If you are after a Zetec 1.8 flywheel I may have one knocking around.


Stu

Again there are different cvh flywheels. Both fwd and rwd, sierra and Fiesta/Escort.

Efi 90 spec ones do have the trigger drillings in the back. Get a Sierra one and its probably double the weight of the zetec.

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Originally posted by big_wasa
Again there are different cvh flywheels. Both fwd and rwd, sierra and Fiesta/Escort.

Efi 90 spec ones do have the trigger drillings in the back. Get a Sierra one and its probably double the weight of the zetec.

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Hi Stu, if you have a spare 1.8 blacktop zetec flywheel knocking about I’ll be very interested if it’s still cheap ? 😊

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Originally posted by Deckman001
Hi Stu, if you have a spare 1.8 blacktop zetec flywheel knocking about I’ll be very interested if it’s still cheap ? 😊

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Hi again, re the 133 thrust bearing, I think I might be going down the std flywheel and clutch route, so would need a correct thrust bearing for the type 9 clutch fork, does anyone have a link to the right one ?

Jason

[Edited on 18/1/23 by Deckman001]

Many Many thanks to Stu for the std 1.8 flywheel, It's well on it's way to get cleaned up !!
so I think I'll be getting a std clutch and cover for the above flywheel, does anyone have the correct number or order numbers for the required clutch thrust release bearing for the type9 gearbox on record ? I've tried, but can't get a definitive answer in on-line searches

Jason

If it's any help sourcing the right cIlutch I believe the flywheel came from a Focus.

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Originally posted by Deckman001
Many Many thanks to Stu for the std 1.8 flywheel, It's well on it's way to get cleaned up !!
so I think I'll be getting a std clutch and cover for the above flywheel, does anyone have the correct number or order numbers for the required clutch thrust release bearing for the type9 gearbox on record ? I've tried, but can't get a definitive answer in on-line searches

Jason

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Hi Charlie, thanks for the info, very interesting. I have ordered a std zetec clutch, 23 splines and 220 dia, so hopefully that is what I need, I've looked at the linked release bearing, how does it locate inside the type9 ? I had assumed that I could use a similar release bearing that sits into the fork so that the cable operated clutch can be operated ?

D'oh I've just checked your full info and the LUK part number looks like the perfect part !!

Jason

[Edited on 23/1/23 by Deckman001]

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Originally posted by Deckman001
Hi Charlie, thanks for the info, very interesting. I have ordered a std zetec clutch, 23 splines and 220 dia, so hopefully that is what I need, I've looked at the linked release bearing, how does it locate inside the type9 ? I had assumed that I could use a similar release bearing that sits into the fork so that the cable operated clutch can be operated ?

D'oh I've just checked your full info and the LUK part number looks like the perfect part !!

Jason

[Edited on 23/1/23 by Deckman001]

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Hi Charlie, Yes the QH part number is what lots of others have said is the right part, although it has a hydrophilic arm waiting for the hydrolyc powered set up so it's not just the one i need. so the LUK part sounds like the perfect part for my type9 pedal controlled clutch set up. Sadly I can't find any stocks of that part 500018410 at the moment so my locost is now engine less waiting for the change to be completed with all the needed parts

Seeing as it's still freezing outside so at the moment I'm not worried by the wait for the parts to get in stock from multiple companies.

Jason

quote:

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Originally posted by Deckman001
Hi Charlie, Yes the QH part number is what lots of others have said is the right part, although it has a hydrophilic arm waiting for the hydrolyc powered set up so it's not just the one i need. so the LUK part sounds like the perfect part for my type9 pedal controlled clutch set up. Sadly I can't find any stocks of that part 500018410 at the moment so my locost is now engine less waiting for the change to be completed with all the needed parts

Seeing as it's still freezing outside so at the moment I'm not worried by the wait for the parts to get in stock from multiple companies.

Jason

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quote:

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Originally posted by Charlie_Zetec

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Originally posted by Deckman001
Hi Charlie, Yes the QH part number is what lots of others have said is the right part, although it has a hydrophilic arm waiting for the hydrolyc powered set up so it's not just the one i need. so the LUK part sounds like the perfect part for my type9 pedal controlled clutch set up. Sadly I can't find any stocks of that part 500018410 at the moment so my locost is now engine less waiting for the change to be completed with all the needed parts

Seeing as it's still freezing outside so at the moment I'm not worried by the wait for the parts to get in stock from multiple companies.

Jason

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Don’t rule out the QH part - like I said in my previous post, the picture in the link I posted is a file photo and not the actual part. I used the CCT133 part number when I ordered a bearing last year, and it came in as the exact replacement I needed ie. WITHOUT the hydrophilic arm. Each motor factor will have their own preferred supplier, so just go for both options as someone will be able to cross-reference correctly.

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The zetec flywheel is about 16mm closer to the block than crossflow/pinto options.

To make up that gap you can do 3 things

1) get a ct133 release bearing
2) fit a spacer to the standard pinto release bearing
3) move the pivot pin 16mm further out .

I chose the 3rd option and drilled out the pivot pin hole and tapped /replaced with an 8mm bolt + appropriate washers/nuts. I did this as a temporary to get my first zetec running . I did machine up a proper "stand off spacer" to do the job later , but never fitted it as the bolt thing just worked .

You can also use the standard 2l flywheel+clutch+cover unmodified but it is heavy.

the 1.8 flywheel can use the original cover and take a standard pinto clutch to work without mods.

starter wise as the flywheel is 16mm closer you need a starter 16mm shorter , various options work like cvh 1.8 or 2l twin cam 8v granada/sierra/scorpio or space a pinto one out 16mm ( this works but can be a bit naff if all your using is washers ). the smallest most powerful starter is the bosh 2+2.3l scopio auto one as it has a little helical gearbox in it. solenoids can be top or bottom of starter so fit rely depends on exhaust manifold.

If i ever figure out how to post pictures i can put one up of spacer/bolt setup.

I struggled with my orignal CVH starter turning the engine over when hot for years - it always started and I was never quite sure what the problem was, but last year I bought one of these:

Link

It's geared and is so much more powerful than the old one.

Cheers peeps,

I think I've already sorted the starter from the friend who is going to help me sort the engine mounts and alternator set up along with an idler, but I don't have a usable alternator yet, so am looking for something very cheap to recharge the battery that suits the std drive belt size and ribs. Am not too concerned by a std weight as thew zetec is already lighter than my original xflow.

So on that basis, does anyone have a cheap usable alternator that they now don't want ?

"
1) get a ct133 release bearing
2) fit a spacer to the standard pinto release bearing
3) move the pivot pin 16mm further out .

I chose the 3rd option and drilled out the pivot pin hole and tapped /replaced with an 8mm bolt + appropriate washers/nuts. I did this as a temporary to get my first zetec running . I did machine up a proper "stand off spacer" to do the job later , but never fitted it as the bolt thing just worked .
"
Many thanks for that option, I'll check the bellhousing next time i'm in the garage to see if that would be even easier. Do you know what clutch release bearing i should use if I actually move the fork bolt pivot point closer by 16mm ?

Jason

[Edited on 26/1/23 by Deckman001]

[Edited on 26/1/23 by Deckman001]

Wehay, I've sorted the flywheel, clutch and clutch release bearing !! So many many thanks to you all for your help and ideas.

Jason


Zetec so far

[Edited on 1/2/23 by Deckman001]

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Originally posted by Deckman001
Wehay, I've sorted the flywheel, clutch and clutch release bearing !! So many many thanks to you all for your help and ideas.

Jason

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