looks similar to this -
[Edited on 11/9/09 by Mr Whippy]
Impact
wrench
Air compressor is out of the question due to the cost and i was wondering if anyone has used one of these?
Hopefully it will be powerful enough to undo the crank pulley bolt!
Looks very similar to the 24v Clarke impact wrench, and that struggles to undo tight wheel nuts and won't even look at a tight crank pulley bolt
(tried it on my mums Corsa).
The mains powered Clarke one isn't too bad, but you really need a decent brand name gun to get the best performance. Unfortunately that means
£££.
Me being a noob i have to ask.
How on earth one of these can be better than a 25" long breakers bar?
i have a roybi one and cant even remove wheel nuts you can get a 12v one that plugs into the fag socket in a car that has real power i used one to
strip a full car in a scrap yard with no problems.
it looks like this one
Item number: 380157126404
here is a great one Max. torque 450Nm
New Clarke CEW1000 Electric Impact Wrench 240v £49.99
Item number: 150371511296
* 1000 Watt, 230V motor
* Max. torque 450Nm
* No load speed 2200rpm
* No load impact rate 3400ipm
* Drives bolts up to a max size of M12
* Bit holder size ½" square drive
* Includes socket sizes 17, 19, 21 & 22mm and carry case
here is one for £10 that will kick a cordless ones ass
Item number: 320422245848
(have your engine running when you use it it gives you arond 30% more power)
[Edited on 11/9/09 by thunderace]
quote:
Originally posted by l0rd
Me being a noob i have to ask.
How on earth one of these can be better than a 25" long breakers bar?
Thanks for the replys. I saw the clarke one but wasnt sure if it would be any good.
Looks like i may have to fork out a bit more (its a tough nut!)
ETA - Dont really fancy using the cig lighter socket as the locost doesnt have one
[Edited on 11-9-09 by speedyxjs]
We have a 110v impact gun at work. We use it for removing seized nuts off furnaces, which is a considerable problem with the hot environment. However a 24" breaker bar and a 5ft length of scaffold is twice a quick and considerably quieter. Oh and impact guns should use strengthen sockets, which just add more and more cost.
quote:
Originally posted by MikeRJ
quote:
Originally posted by l0rd
Me being a noob i have to ask.
How on earth one of these can be better than a 25" long breakers bar?
I guess you've never used one! They apply very high peak torque in short bursts which is effective for loosening tight fasteners. The main advantage though is that with a breaker bar you need to arrange for the part you are working on to resist the constant torque you are providing, e.g. locking crank on an engine. Since the torque is only apllied for a fraction of a second with an impact wrench you can just rely on the inertia of the part to resist it.
quote:
Originally posted by deezee
However a 24" breaker bar and a 5ft length of scaffold is twice a quick and considerably quieter.
I have a 12v battery one that looks like sh%t that I got as a present. Sounds scary with lots of whirring and banging but so far has removed
everything thrown at it, including mental landy wheel nuts & the beetles hub rear hub nuts
looks similar to this -
[Edited on 11/9/09 by Mr Whippy]
quote:
Originally posted by deezee
We have a 110v impact gun at work. We use it for removing seized nuts off furnaces, which is a considerable problem with the hot environment. However a 24" breaker bar and a 5ft length of scaffold is twice a quick and considerably quieter. Oh and impact guns should use strengthen sockets, which just add more and more cost.
If their well made normal sockets then you shouldn't need to bother with hardened ones when using even an extended breaker bar. As although the
impact wrench will shatter normal sockets and produce fragments, a breaker bar will only split them open harmlessly (unless you drop the bar on your
foot).
However you are much more likely to damage other components using a breaker bar instead of an impact wrench and I’d not like to use a bar on an engine
tbh.
Just managed to get the crank pulley bolt off my honda - 3/4 inch impact driver struggled (600 ftlb!)
Regards
Hugh
i went mad and got a top of the range bosch one. havent found anything it wont do yet. something like 300-350nm of torque from memory.
anything over 200nm should be fine really. the tightest thing on a sierra are the rear hub nuts and they are only done up to 180odd nm
[Edited on 11/9/09 by ashg]
quote:
Originally posted by ashg
anything over 200nm should be fine really. the tightest thing on a sierra are the rear hub nuts and they are only done up to 180odd nm
Sorry about the noob question earlier, but i tend to strip the threads from the bolts using sockets. I am sure, with a breakers bar you can remove prety much enything
quote:
Originally posted by l0rd
I am sure, with a breakers bar you can remove prety much enything
my air wrench is useless. Its a clark one, and i only use it as a nut spinner. I hear a lot of people say the electric ones are good so i may get one one day.
2nd the clarke are poor. couldn`t undo a 10mm 12.9 caliper bolt, used a air wrench manually and it undid it.
Seem to behave better oiled though.
Darren
quote:
Originally posted by Mr Whippy
If their well made normal sockets then you shouldn't need to bother with hardened ones when using even an extended breaker bar. As although the impact wrench will shatter normal sockets and produce fragments, a breaker bar will only split them open harmlessly (unless you drop the bar on your foot).
...
quote:
Originally posted by JoelP
my air wrench is useless. Its a clark one, and i only use it as a nut spinner. I hear a lot of people say the electric ones are good so i may get one one day.
I've seen a snap-on £400 electric one used on my crank nut, so impressive. Breaker bar wasn't an option due to space, air impact wrench was
useless, snap on version got it off instantly.
Another time when I had to get off a crank nut I hired a feck off electric impact wrench from hire station for the day, that worked! It was 3 phase
but they threw in an inverter/adapter too so I could use it
The same crank nut I managed to get off once with a breaker bar when the engine was out of the car. It meant strapping the engine against a huge beam
and using all my strenght, was a right pain. I'll definately invest in a flip hot electric one at some point
[Edited on 18/9/09 by Benzine]
For cordless impact wrenches it just depends on what you want it for really and your budget. I truly believe that you are paying a very high premium
for the Snap-On name of electric impact wrenches, there are makes out there that are just as high quality if not better and cost less, from the like
of Makita & Mac etc
I use a Makita BTW215 at the track for changing wheels etc but also have it's big brother the BTW450 when more torque is required. As they both
use the same battery's and charger I bought a discount pack one with 2xbatteries and a charger at a trade show (though you can find these online
without much problem) and then bough the other one naked, so just the wrench alone - which same me quite a bit.
I noticed one day while talking with Seb Loeb and looking in his car that they also carry a BTW251 for changing wheels on the stages so that should
say something.
Air tools are really the same deal, you pay a premium for Snap-On when others like Mac, Chicago Pneumatic & Ingersoll Rand are just as good,
though I have to confess I do own a Snap-On air impact wrench and ratchet, though I have a mac ratchet also that was 1/2 the price of the Snap-On and
it's easily as good.
[Edited on 20/9/09 by atomic]