My fiberglass Westfield bonnet got dropped and needs repairing.
I went to a bodyshop and he said it would not get a match due to the impregnated dye in the fiberglass.
Am i just better replacing it?
it's yellow, so i believe this isn't the easiest colour to match anyway.
quote:
Originally posted by ian996
My fiberglass Westfield bonnet got dropped and needs repairing.
I went to a bodyshop and he said it would not get a match due to the impregnated dye in the fiberglass.
Am i just better replacing it?
it's yellow, so i believe this isn't the easiest colour to match anyway.
I don't as I'm out the country right now. It's on the front edge, just a big chip so it flexes a bit too much
If you can find out what the RAL colour code for the gel-coat, you can probably order a match. Then you could fill from the back and add a layer of gel-coat to the top. Then it's a case of shaping, sanding and polishing.
The colour paste is in the gelcoat on/near the surface, which gives the finish and UV protection. If the glass backing is damaged then the repair is
a bit more serious, and you need to look at different methods of repair in both application and materials. Although if just the top it's not too
bad. Try and speak to a specialist e.g. boat repair company who should be able to both colour match and fill to get it back to normal.
If you want to know more specifics about materials or repairs, please feel free to drop me a U2U and I can elaborate further.
Ian have msg you I might have a couple of Westie bonnets that would fit lying at back of workshop. Can also tell u
How to fix if u send pics I'm a boat builder and used to supply
Grp panels for 7 track cars.
quote:
Originally posted by Hugh Paterson
Ian have msg you I might have a couple of Westie bonnets that would fit lying at back of workshop. Can also tell u
How to fix if u send pics I'm a boat builder and used to supply
Grp panels for 7 track cars.
OK - that's repairable. I'd start with a couple of layers of 400gsm on the back to add strength. Then I'd fill the gaps in the facing
surface with body filler and sculpt to shape. You then need to flat the filler back and take it about 1mm under the facing surface. You should be able
to nicely get the shape you need of the car then.
Next, you need to apply gel-coat to the surface and have it slightly proud (so you can flat it back). You also need to ensure the gel-coat goes off -
either with a wax additive or using some flash tape to stop the air getting to it. If you don't, it will remain sticky. Because you're going
around a 90 degree bend, flash tape running vertically from the lower up and around the corner onto the top part will help you get the shape you need
without having any runs.
It's also winter, so gel-coat needs to be thought about in terms of temperature. If it's pretty cold you will struggle to get it to go off.
Rather than adding more catalyst (which will weaken it), you should have the gel warmed up to about 20C. The technical data sheet for the gel-coat
will let you know the optimum envelope.
Once done, you then need to flat back and polish. I get pretty good results with 400-800-1500 wet and dry, followed by a 3 stage polish.
I just wrote a piece on my blog about repairing gel-coat in a mould which may help. It's here:
http://www.furyrebuild.co.uk and there are a good number of photos.
THanks
Mark
Where can I get the gel coat from other than Westfield. They're a bit rubbish at getting things done there and I don't want to send a part in that I'll be waiting 8 weeks to get back.
All you need is the RAL number which is the standard colour number. For instance, the blue on my fury is 5005. Once you have that, you can get it from
anywhere (as long as it's standard). I'd suggest calling them for the number, and asking if they sell repair gel. If not, someone like east
coast fibreglass will have what you need.
Stuff like chopped strand mat and resin etc. They will also do. The only thing that may not be so helpful is the size of their minimum order. You may
find yourself with 450g of gel-coat spare at the end 
if that's the minimum order.
The don't know the RAL unfortunately and want a piece of the bodywork!
What you want to do is contact a GRP (glass reinforced polyester) specialist and speak with them. If you can get a RAL code (usually 4 numbers long)
for the paint colour you're on the right path, but unfortunately this wont' account for any UV degradation over time; in a similar way you
get paint fade on standard vehicles. Else get a swatch chart and get the closest match. They should be able to mix a small quantity of resin and
colour pigment to match, or maybe if they're local even undertake the whole job.
Also, be aware that if you're doing the behind panel repair work yourself, you may have to investigate the use of different resin to add to the
glass - "new" polyester doesn't always like adhering to "old" polyester, so you might be better with epoxy resin. Again,
speak with a specialist like East Coast Fibreglass (who I have no affiliation to), or a marine repair company.
[Edited on 9/1/17 by Charlie_Zetec]
I agree with everything Charlie's said. I've not come across the poly-poly being a problem (clean everything with acetone first, and get a
key laid down) but epoxy sticks to anything well. The cure times for epoxy can be a lot longer, but ECF may have something formulated with a much
quicker cure time.
I certainly did have a little colour fade over time with mine. Another option is to get a body shop to repair it - they work a lot with glass and
bodge so you will get a great finish. Not quite locost, but very probably a spot-on paint match and it should be near perfect.
quote:
Originally posted by Charlie_Zetec
What you want to do is contact a GRP (glass reinforced polyester) specialist and speak with them. If you can get a RAL code (usually 4 numbers long) for the paint colour you're on the right path, but unfortunately this wont' account for any UV degradation over time; in a similar way you get paint fade on standard vehicles. Else get a swatch chart and get the closest match. They should be able to mix a small quantity of resin and colour pigment to match, or maybe if they're local even undertake the whole job.
Also, be aware that if you're doing the behind panel repair work yourself, you may have to investigate the use of different resin to add to the glass - "new" polyester doesn't always like adhering to "old" polyester, so you might be better with epoxy resin. Again, speak with a specialist like East Coast Fibreglass (who I have no affiliation to), or a marine repair company.
[Edited on 9/1/17 by Charlie_Zetec]
a simple answer for colour match, is to repair it then put some fancy (probably black) stripes in strategic places