After being involved with cars all my life but with bodywork limited to the days of cellulose paint I am wanting to paint a new fibreglass spoiler. The question is how should I do it. I have a compressor and gun but what paint should I use etc. Cheers.
Unless you have the correct hardware (air feed mask, extracted/filtered spray booth) etc, then I would avoid 2k paints, despite a lot of people having
a preference for them. They are just not safe to use at home IMHO. Cellulose is fine, and works well, but is harder than 2k to achieve a great finish.
The OEMs are all using water based systems nowadays, due to the elimination of VOCs (solvent based paint systems were banned in 2007). I have no
direct experience of these newer water based systems, but there is a lot of info out there on how to use them.
For spraying on fibreglass, key up the surface and use an acid etch primer first (which is compatible with the top coat you plan to use).
I've been looking at Rustoleum for my 1958 Austin A35. Can brush, roll or spray it on. Have a look online at Rawlins paint website, info on
I sprayed the car with cellulose about 5 years ago and within 6 months it started to crack all over. Imo Cellulose has had all the goodness taken out of it to comply with health and safety regs (although I'm no expert with a spraygun ☺
Rustoleum is an anti rust top coat so may not be the best for fibreglass but the website is worth a look and they do reply to email requests for advice.
Understand the "wanting to have a go" aspect, but have you had a quote for having it painted professionally?
It may not be that much and professionals tend to have the right paint, tools and safety gear.
I broke my nose-cone a few years back (don't ask) and, in the end, I only put the effort into repairing it, filling it and smoothing down ready
for painting. I then passed it over to a small local car repair shop who did a very tidy 2k job on it; I think it cost me around £40 + VAT. He even
paid me a compliment on the quality of my prep!
A lot of the money in spraying is in the preparation - if you can get the surface as good as possible then the bodyshop only has to give it a quick rub-down and de-grease before they can get spraying. The other way to keep it cheap is to tell the shop that the job can be fitted in between 'real jobs' - in other words, don't hustle for a quick result - and pick a straightforward colour (mine was 'signal yellow' ) with no matching to adjacent surfaces. In all I think they took about 1 week to complete the job.
In other words - the price will be lower if you keep it simple for the paint shop.