When I bought my car last year I was assured that all the electrics worked, well then Fi part from the sued and head lights, main beam works when operated, so I assumed that this would be an easy fix, well been at it all day and no joy. Checked the obvious and now removed the switch thinking that that's where the problem lies, to test I placed a live direct from the battery and yep we have lights, tried to trace the feed back but struggling to follow it it disappears, so I have decided to start again with it hence my question is does anyone have a simple wiring diagram for the lights?

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A live to the switch, then two wires out off the switch, each one to a fuse with the wire to the headlight. That's the simple way, however you need to factor in the switch between high and low beam..

So a live to the main switch, one out to the high low switch then as above, one out for high, one out for low. Split these in two for feed into a fuse for each circuit, 4 in total.

That make sense? If you want to get really (Ford) technical you can always control the switch over with a relay!

What switches do you have? Does it have a change over relay? Have you trace the wiring back from the lights?

The switch is from the donor when built originally back in 86 which was a dolomite. No relays the guy who originally built the assures me gat they all worked fine when sold?

Some stalks switch the -ve 0volt connection. Not sure on the dolomite though!

Going to move to savage switches on side and dipped beam, hence the request for a simple diagram.....

First thing to do is check for a live feed to the main light (on/off)switch ,should be a feed out on position one for sidelights possibly a red wire? And a feed out,possibly a blue wire when on the second position for headlights. Next check for a live feed to the dip switch , IIRC the Dolomite uses a Lucas wiring loom which is fairly basic , If you have a feed to the dip switch check for a feed out for dip (blue/red?) and for main (blue/white?) Lucas fuses can cause problems with dodgy connections, clean any fuses and fuse boxes with emery cloth and check both sides of the fuse box for continuity. If you have a feed to the switch but nothing out then the switches may be dodgy , try a squirt of contact cleaner

[Edited on 25/1/15 by rusty nuts]

When send a started live feed to the switch everything works fine, hence a spect an issue to the switch....

I don't know if its any good to you, but this is my wiring diagram using Sierra switches and a Premier loom


headlight tail and fog wiring

I've got a sierra diagram if you want it ?
I've built two cars from these diagrams.
U2u me your email and I'll send it on

Sierra wiring is totally different unfortunately , if all else fails a classic Mini diagram would be better.

triumph used various different designs of column switches,
it is common for the internal contacts to oxidize, and just switching them a fair few times can make them work!

as I remember...
is it a 3 position switch (early herald etc) 2 position dip/beam (spitfire era) or square stalk (tr7 /maxi etc)?
ps- there was another too... a floor switch dip/beam on TR's!
take a photo of said switch and I can give a far more specific answer

ps if its triumph/ standard uk / lucas wiring colours, blue is headlights, blue/red dip and blue/white beam

[Edited on 25/1/15 by gremlin1234]