what i did on mine was to bridge the isolator switch with a fuse holder, that kept the megasquirt alive but try to start it or any bigger load would pop the fuse
Hi I'm wiring up my new digidash and it needs a permanent live to it or else the clock and probably other stuff needs resetting every time the power is off .I have one of those red battery isolater switches fitted .but also there is a live and neutral coming directly from the battery terminals to a small fuse box then to the digidash .The problem being when I isolate the battery it also disconnects the two wires coming directly from the battery! It does not make sense to me ! I just can't understand what's happening and why it is not working properly!! Anybody know what's going wrong please ? Cheers .
It doesn't sound like it is wired as you are describing or it would work, I would trace the wiring and check that it is definitely wired
correctly.
Have you checked with a meter for power at the fuse box to see whether you are losing the +ve or the -ve?
Do you have any relays in the circuit that are energised by a switch which is fed by the "isolated" supply?
quote:hi wiring is not one of my strong points and I would need to check up on certain things when I get back to the car again on Monday evening .The two wires which come directly from the battery bypass the battery isolator switch so I just can't understand why the switch still isolates that circuit .There is nothing else connected to either wire apart from the live goes to a fuse box. Then from the fusebox a live feed goes to the 'clock ' wire for the digidash .another live from fusebox goes to a 12v power socket .The direct negative goes straight to the 12v power socket .I will check later if it is +ve or - ve which is been cut off .it 'll be Monday when I get the multimeter out though .hope this makes sense .It's all just baffling me .Cheers.
Originally posted by daviep
It doesn't sound like it is wired as you are describing or it would work, I would trace the wiring and check that it is definitely wired correctly.
Have you checked with a meter for power at the fuse box to see whether you are losing the +ve or the -ve?
Do you have any relays in the circuit that are energised by a switch which is fed by the "isolated" supply?
is the switch on the --- lead ?,are the digidash wires straight to the battery?.
what i did on mine was to bridge the isolator switch with a fuse holder, that kept the megasquirt alive but try to start it or any bigger load would
pop the fuse
Sounds like the battery isolater switch is in the negative/earth circuit to me?
quote:
Originally posted by CosKev3
Sounds like the battery isolater switch is in the negative/earth circuit to me?
+2 That how i did mine deliberately
Isolator in the negative connection stops the engine being powered by the alternator when the isolator is on - it's the standard way to wire them in IIRC
Yeah it is the recommended way to do it,but lots of people use them in the +/live wire
Well you learn something new everyday and I certainly have today ! I couldn't wait till Monday evening to check the wiring on the car so I went this evening.The isolater is connected to the negative supply from the battery .The power socket is permanently live even when the isolater switch is turned off so this confirms it ! So I just need to connect the wire which comes directly from the battery negative to one of the earth wires to the digidash .problem solved ! Thanks for all the help everyone !