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Trouble shooting a broken window.
morcus - 6/6/12 at 07:34 PM

Now that my car runs, fixing the window is my next job.

When you press the button nothing happens and it doesn't make a sound. What should I check first as I don't want to buy a new regulator then find out it's just a fuse or something.

My thoughts were check the fuses first but after that I'm stumped as to what to check.


bi22le - 6/6/12 at 07:58 PM

What car is it?

I have fixed many elecy windows on all sorts of cars. You need a multimeter and some basic knowledge. Below is a list, in order, of the things I would check.

1) Fuse
2) wires and the plug that joins the door loom to the car (door shut area)
3) output from switch
4) Window motor and asociated gubbins.

Things I would be supprised it ended up being.
1) Actually wiring in the door. (unless somebody has moved and re routed the wiring, this is normally on the outside of the skin.
2) Relay (never seen one go)
3) Any kind of control module (same as above)

Good luck.

Remember you have at least one other working door so you can compare and swap parts before going and spending your monies.

U2U me if you need any further help.

Biz


perksy - 6/6/12 at 08:15 PM

As above

Check the fuse
Test for voltage at the motor


Check where the cable connects/passes through the door as i fixed a Punto once and all it needed was a squirt of contact cleaner in the connector on the door


morcus - 6/6/12 at 08:20 PM

It's a 1990 eunos roadster if that helps, thanks for the list of things, I bought a multi meter last week so I'll probably have made back my £20 by the end of this week.

I'll start on that lot tommorrow.

Stupid question though, how do I test the voltage? do I just hook up the meter in parallel like when testing a battery and press the button?


gazzarose - 6/6/12 at 08:21 PM

As above check the connection between the door and the body, but not nust the pins, check the wire is actually connected. Our Defender in work suddenly stopped working, and thats what in turned out to the, the wire had snapped inside the flexible conduit thing.

Gareth


bi22le - 6/6/12 at 09:40 PM

Yep, voltage check is just parallel to the motor.


Xtreme Kermit - 6/6/12 at 09:42 PM

quote:
Originally posted by gazzarose
As above check the connection between the door and the body, but not nust the pins, check the wire is actually connected. Our Defender in work suddenly stopped working, and thats what in turned out to the, the wire had snapped inside the flexible conduit thing.

Gareth


+1 on that - but with a Galaxy/Sharan


morcus - 6/6/12 at 10:02 PM

Thanks, I'll have a look at all of those bits, I'm hoping this is going to be a blown fuse or loose connection as memory of my dad fitting a new motor tells me it's a pain to do.


McLannahan - 6/6/12 at 10:42 PM

It's probably just dirty channels in the door. They get filled up with dirt and grime and over time the motor slows and slows until it doesn't raise or lower the window.

Take the door card off and clean the channels properly. I ran some candle wax down the window edges and window channels on my mx5 and it made a massive difference.

Motors do burn out with trying too hard to do the window but as said it's not so common. Check the fuses first as it's a two second job and then I'd pop the door card off and clean it all up.

Slow and non moving windows are sadly very common on the older mx5's!


morcus - 7/6/12 at 12:56 AM

Thanks for the tip. The passenger side is fine, but the drivers side just does nothing at all, I can't hear the motor going or anything. It's annoying as I had to drive about with the door open to get out of parking spaces.


britishtrident - 7/6/12 at 06:49 AM

I am not sure about your car but these days most electric widows operate via the body control computer, however the most likely causes remain a wiring break or connector or relay problem.


theconrodkid - 7/6/12 at 06:50 AM

i had the same on mine,took the window switch apart and cleaned up the monster sized contacts,there is no relay so the contacts burn