I need to fit a small amount of skirting which is just over 100mm tall.
My electric mitre saw (which was very cheap) is too small so I went out and bought a manual mitre saw from Screwfix but it's absolutely useless
as there's so much play in everything that the cut is almost 5mm out over the 100mm length.
I've had a look at various manual mitre saws on line but they all get poor reviews so any advice would be appreciated.
How would a professional carpenter do it?
John.
Is it an internal or externel mitre that you are trying to cut? How complex is the moulding ?
I've used my 18v circular saw set at 45 degrees on the baseplate. It even has a nice little notch on the front for the 45 degree setting so you get it spot on.
I need to do both internal and external mitres but the profile is very simple, just a taper towards the top.
I just bought a mitre from wickes for £17 (was gonna get a £10 one from screwfix but it was sold out and didnt wanna spend £26 on there other one).
It seemed fine, one thing it did have strapped to the blade was something like 'ensure the blade has been tightened before use, if it is loose
then the accuracy of te cut will be reduced, also ensure the blade is slackened after use.'
Possibly something you need to try?
Nail three pieces of timber into a U shaped box.
With a combination square, mark a 45 deg line on top between both sides.
Now simultaneously cut down both side pieces to create a slot for your saw to run in.
Bingo, you have an accurate mitre box. If you want, you can clamp the skirting into position in the mitre box.
P.S. Don't ever mitre internal joints. Cut one square and run it right into the corner. The next part, cut it to a mitre, then with a coping saw,
cut it square but to the profile that the mitre just created. This fits right in agaisnt the bit you just fitted with the square cut. A perfect
scribed joint and no daylight in the corner.
Having said all of that, I would just use a new Sandvik 244 and do it freehand, but I've been at it a while now.
quote:
Originally posted by zilspeed
Nail three pieces of timber into a U shaped box.
With a combination square, mark a 45 deg line on top between both sides.
Now simultaneously cut down both side pieces to create a slot for your saw to run in.
Bingo, you have an accurate mitre box. If you want, you can clamp the skirting into position in the mitre box.
P.S. Don't ever mitre internal joints. Cut one square and run it right into the corner. The next part, cut it to a mitre, then with a coping saw, cut it square but to the profile that the mitre just created. This fits right in agaisnt the bit you just fitted with the square cut. A perfect scribed joint and no daylight in the corner.
Having said all of that, I would just use a new Sandvik 244 and do it freehand, but I've been at it a while now.
Ive been doing skirting all day as it happens! Mine was also 100mm chamfered, and it *just* fitted vertically in my chopsaw. Its a right pain doing it
flat with the blade at 45 dergees. Surely you must know someone who would lend you a big enough chopsaw?
Any inaccuracies can be filled in when you caulk it all.
Whatever you do, DO NOT buy a plastic moulded mitre box.
I found this out the hard way, after cutting all the skirting boards for a room.
The slots are not vertical but slope to make it easier to get out of the mould. So all the joints have a gap at the top.
So why do the stupid maggots keep making and selling them.
quote:
Originally posted by Confused but excited.
So why do the stupid maggots keep making and selling them.
quote:
Originally posted by David Jenkins
quote:
Originally posted by Confused but excited.
So why do the stupid maggots keep making and selling them.
'Cos stupid maggots keep buying them?
Echo Zilspeed !! cut square end into corner and profile the other to match.
Soooo much easier and joint can be filled easier too.
Get some square timber the same or similar thickness and cut to the depth of your skirting. Cut your skirting to fit into the corner minus the
thickness of the wood. Put the square wood into the corner and butt both your skirting pieces up to it. It looks different but tidy and makes the job
so much simpler. If you are painting it you will not even notice it after. On outside corners chamfer the top and pin it to the end of one piece then
butt the other up.
[Edited on 18/11/10 by Peteff]
As said, scribe internal joints and I use a 90* V cutter in the router for externals!
quote:
Originally posted by David Jenkins
quote:
Originally posted by Confused but excited.
So why do the stupid maggots keep making and selling them.
'Cos stupid maggots keep buying them?
ebay has the tool i got for skirting as i do a lot
Item number: 120641749448
As a chippy you would always scribe internals, I always used and still do a hand mitre saw and the only one that is any use at all is a NOBEX(swedish) mine will cut 7" skirt and be so good i dont have to use any filler at all for the external joints .gary.
No special tools needed!
I just draw the line with a pencil and use a panel saw to cut at 45degrees (by eye)
Regards
Hugh
quote:
Originally posted by Bitten hero
As a chippy you would always scribe internals, I always used and still do a hand mitre saw and the only one that is any use at all is a NOBEX(swedish) mine will cut 7" skirt and be so good i dont have to use any filler at all for the external joints .gary.