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renault 5 turbo
desyboy - 6/1/08 at 10:36 PM

I wonder if any one would know what the 2 small pipes that go to the wastegate actuator are for?
Cheers Des

coozer - 6/1/08 at 10:43 PM

Waste gate bypass?? stops the turbo disintegrating when you take your foot off the loud pedal??

oadamo - 6/1/08 at 10:46 PM

the 2 pipes are for better control of the wastegate there designed to be used with a controller manual or electronic.
adam

desyboy - 6/1/08 at 10:59 PM

could you explain how they work please?

oadamo - 6/1/08 at 11:09 PM

they work the same as a normal waste gate. the bottom hose by the rod. when the pressure builds up it opens the waste gate. but when you use the other hose with a bleed valve. you need a 3 way bleed valve. you are putting a bit of pressure to keep it shut aswell. so you can control it better. (you get it to open when it hits what boost you want but there not 100% unless you use a electronic controller.
adam

desyboy - 6/1/08 at 11:13 PM

do you need to use the pipes or can you just use the wastegate?

oadamo - 6/1/08 at 11:20 PM

just run the bottom pipe to the fitting by the rod. to the turbo housing there should be a pipe fitting on the compressor side. but you will have to set the rod length to set the boost level you want.
adam

oadamo - 6/1/08 at 11:21 PM

if there is a pipe on the turbo fitting. its will prob be going to the standard boost controler then back to the turbo. but you can get rid of all that as it stops you from making full boost.
adam

if you do this buy a boost gauge and check the boost level.adjust the rod to suit before you boot it.

[Edited on 6/1/08 by oadamo]

[Edited on 6/1/08 by oadamo]

kikiturbo - 6/1/08 at 11:25 PM

quote:
Originally posted by desyboy
I wonder if any one would know what the 2 small pipes that go to the wastegate actuator are for?
Cheers Des


R5 gt turbo has a so called part throttle open wastegate control... it uses two pipes, each connected to the plastic elbow in roughly the same spot but with a different pickup on the inside.. so basically one reads static pressure and other one dynamic (IIRC one of those little pipes is also connected to the intake manifold??)..and one pressure wants to open the wastegate and lower the turbo pressure and other one works against it and closes the WG... anyway... the point of the system is to be able to lower the turbo pressure on partial throttle (with no electronic control like nowdays)..

cup versions of gtt had the system removed and used to connect the wastegate to the intake manifold behind the throttle... thus givving full potential boost all the time (wastegate needed to be recalibrated) with somewhat lower turbo life expectancy...

desyboy - 6/1/08 at 11:34 PM

Theres no other fittings on the turbo anywhere just the 2 small 1/4" pipes coming from the wastegate actuator, whats the best thing to do with them?

thanks very much for your help des

[Edited on 6/1/08 by desyboy]

nitram38 - 6/1/08 at 11:58 PM

Des, changed your mind again?

donut - 7/1/08 at 07:39 AM

He get's it from me you know!!

Moorron - 7/1/08 at 01:33 PM

I own a reno so may help, the 2 pipes of the wastegate are what kikiturbo said, it means when driving on the motorway at cruising speed the turbo 'switches off' but to make a simple answer...

remove the pipe closest to the wastegate arm. dont block the remaining pip, but fitting a filter would be good if its going to get covered in dirt (it will rip the diaphram inside if dirt gets in the hole)

The other one needs to be connected to a boost pipe (between the turbo and inlet manifold). it can be anywhere but closer to the throttle butterfly the better.

You can actually connected to the inlet manifold, but this then means a slighly different boost pressure as its seeing the pressure drop from the throttle assembly.

kikiturbo - 7/1/08 at 06:43 PM

quote:
Originally posted by Moorron
I own a reno so may help, the 2 pipes of the wastegate are what kikiturbo said, it means when driving on the motorway at cruising speed the turbo 'switches off' but to make a simple answer...

remove the pipe closest to the wastegate arm. dont block the remaining pip, but fitting a filter would be good if its going to get covered in dirt (it will rip the diaphram inside if dirt gets in the hole)

The other one needs to be connected to a boost pipe (between the turbo and inlet manifold). it can be anywhere but closer to the throttle butterfly the better.

You can actually connected to the inlet manifold, but this then means a slighly different boost pressure as its seeing the pressure drop from the throttle assembly.


yes, but connecting to the inlet manifold will give you the best throttle response,... as I said, cup cars had that connection, but beware that initially, you will have less boost than std. , you have to re adjust the wastegate, by removing the control arm from the wastegate and winding it in a bit...

as for the car itself.. on a std car the sweetest setup I found was to run 1.2 bar and a bit of an adjustment on the carb, by running a bit smaller air cirrector and a bit larger fuel jet (but not the main one, leave that alone, but change the boos fuel jet, it is in the special part of the carb, on the side of it... ) I found that I just had to switch the two... I will try to find the R5 GTT gr N and Cup factory papers, or if anyone has a pic of the carb I will show you...

I also ran a gasflowed head, which was a treat... and there was one more GrN trick, and that was to switch the terminals on the crankshaft/flywheel sensor for the ignition, which will give you a couple of deg. advance on the ignition...

another worthwhile trick is to fix the flap in the intercooler so that it is open all the time.. you do not have to disassemble the intercooler like most sites say, just wind in the thermostat or remove it altogeather and replace with a screw.. wind in until flap open... this will give you a bit more performance first time you step on the throttle , esp in cold weather.. usefull for those city duels.. (not that I condone such a thing... .but I was young once.. )

and the final Cup modification was to reroute the hoses for the twin fuel tanks so that the fuel first goes to the small tank and then to the engine (instead of the oposite on the normal car) so that it doesn't cut out on the last few liters of fuel (never used that one.. )


I will say that for me, the sweetest setup was with the original engine with a bit more power (1,2 bar, gasflowed head and a bit more fuel) but my car ended up with the 1.7 litre turbo from a volvo 480, which was plenty fast but did not handle as nicely...