On paper this engine seems to be ideal for a Locost - low weight, powerful, reliable etc but is there any downside to this engine say over a 2.0 Zetec ?
I know they havent been around as long as the Zetec and could be a bit more expensive and there's the bolt hole pattern to the gearbox thing but surely they've been around for best part of 10 years now.
Just haven't seen as many people use this engine and just wondered why ?

You need to buy a different bell housing but IMHO it's well worth it.

You are correct it is a cracking engine

There's plenty who do use them. As you mention, cost is one reason not so many use them, plus you will need to meet the strictest Catalytic converter level requirements at IVA (but so does any post Aug 95 Zetec.

No reason not to use one IMHO. I recon the cost is comparable to a Zetec if you want 200bhp and injection.

[Edited on 16/2/10 by Steve G]

if you have't yet, have a read through this - Flaks Thread

Be aware of the zorst routing - this can be tricky to clear the steering column. As others have said, it is a tried and tested engine, with plenty of info and parts available.

Totally unstressed 200 ish bhp for around £800-900 including the bellhousing if you do it all on bike throttle bodies and megasquirt.

You can pick the engines up for around £200 now.

Only thing to watch out for is big end noise and its worth replacing the ti-al bearings with heavy duty ones which are around £60 for a set.

David

quote:

---

Originally posted by twybrow
Be aware of the zorst routing - this can be tricky to clear the steering column. As others have said, it is a tried and tested engine, with plenty of info and parts available.

---

They are a bit taller than a zetec. The dry dumped duratec is about as tall as a wet sumped zetec. That may or may not be an issue. Incidentally latest PPC mag has an article on converting zetec to RWD.

quote:

---

Originally posted by bodger
They are a bit taller than a zetec. The dry dumped duratec is about as tall as a wet sumped zetec. That may or may not be an issue. Incidentally latest PPC mag has an article on converting zetec to RWD.

---

David

Your threads on Duratec install on a budget look to be exactly what I need to do !

After seeing the cost of items like the sump, water rail etc from RWD conversion companies, its refreshing to see what you are doing.

Does it matter what year the GSXR TB's are from ?
What ECU would you recommend on a Duratec on a budget ?
Would I need special gear ratios in a Type 9 used with a 2.0 Duratec and 3.62:1 Sierra diff, Hope to use 13 or 14" Minilite style wheels with 185/60 ish tyres

Would it be OK to drop you an e-mail or two in the future for a bit of advice if that's OK ?

Sorry for all the questions but this is my first build !

Cheers

Angus

Hi Angus,

If going for bike throttle bodies try and get ones that are easily respaceable, easrly gsxr ones are the most common. Go for 750 ones and you get 42mm throttle plates which are enough for 200bhp easily.

Best ECU is probably megasquirt. Extraefi is the place to go for one. They are around £350 IIRC for a new one. Just run MS1 or 2 extra and you can use it to control both fuelling and spark. There is lots of support available on the interweb.

A standard type 9 will be fine. I upgraded mine to a heavy duty one due to the supercharger which gives a longer first gear that is much better, but its an easy upgrade at a later date if you wanted to.

David

Thanks to all for all the advice, much appreciated.

Best regards

Angus

doesn't the caterham R500 have one?

quote:

---

Originally posted by RK
doesn't the caterham R500 have one?

---

By the time you've spent the cash converting to RWD and tuning would it not be cheaper to get a SR20DET or similar?

quote:

---

Originally posted by franky
By the time you've spent the cash converting to RWD and tuning would it not be cheaper to get a SR20DET or similar?

---

tiger had a car on pistonheads with a 2.0 duratec and was only producing 160ish bhp.quite disapointing to read this this as i was expecting to do a conversion and get 200 from a std engine on bike throttle bodies.wouldnt do i otherwise.i know the tigers engine was new but when loosened up would it be at 200bhp?

Depends on the map and set up. Needs to be spot on for 200bhp. Its all in the ignition timing apparently.

I know tiger have their own rolling road, but I dont know what their tuning experience is like. Given the number of engines they have blown up (apparently), probably pretty poor at the moment.

Most companies (Cosworth, SBD and Raceline) all quote 195bhp from a stock engine with throttle bodies.

quote:

---

Originally posted by flak monkey

I know tiger have their own rolling road, but I dont know what their tuning experience is like. Given the number of engines they have blown up (apparently), probably pretty poor at the moment.

---

quote:

---

Originally posted by flak monkey
Depends on the map and set up. Needs to be spot on for 200bhp. Its all in the ignition timing apparently.

I know tiger have their own rolling road, but I dont know what their tuning experience is like. Given the number of engines they have blown up (apparently), probably pretty poor at the moment.

Most companies (Cosworth, SBD and Raceline) all quote 195bhp from a stock engine with throttle bodies.

---

I suspect a standard duratec is strangled by the fueling and exhaust system so a big hike might not be so unbelievable. Considering the absolutely huuuuuge inlet ports the duratec has (not that bigger is always better but still....) compared to a zetec.

Yep, throttle bodies and free flowing exhaust with a good map is 45bhp...

As Dan says, the inlet and exhaust ports are huge meaning you can make a very free revving engine producing lots of power pretty easily. Even the 260bhp engines only have very minor head work, reshaping the bottoms of the ports slightly.

The std inlet is massivley restrictive as is the exhaust and thats where the power is lost.