Board logo

R1 engine problems
Pdlewis - 19/9/10 at 11:57 AM

Hi,

after a few months with a broken engine i got a new one in the car this weekend started on the first touch of the button so I thought winner then i checked the oil level only to see milk shake the engine idles fine. Just wondering how to diagnose where the water is getting in and what to do next.

So far I have taken the expensive route of pouring engine flush in and draining all the oil change the filter and oil and start again but the result was the same. I think it may be the O ring has not seated on the water pipe which runs through the sump but im not sure. so what do i do next?

all a bit disshartening because i have moved over 100 miles away from the car and only get the odd weekend to works on it but to seel it, it really needs to have a working engine

its an r1 5pw 2002/03

Thanks in advance


adithorp - 19/9/10 at 12:14 PM

The pipe through the sump should only have water in it if the water pump gland/seal is gone and leaking. The pipe then lets it leak out rather than into the sump. The seals if damaged (and the pump is OK) just cause an oil leak.

Is there water in the oil. The oil in the glass can look frothy when the engine has been reving.

adrian

ps. draining the oil via the sump plug will still leave some small amount of old oil behind.

[Edited on 19/9/10 by adithorp]


nitram38 - 19/9/10 at 12:21 PM

I think the same as Adrian. Did you have the sump off and lose the o ring?


Bryan Sears - 19/9/10 at 01:10 PM

Headgasket


tombstone - 19/9/10 at 01:23 PM

I mechanic for a guy drag racing a R1 with 5PW, poor oil and condensation make the oil look terrible, we now run the breathers into seperate catch tanks, and use Silkolene oil, no more issues since... get a coolant pressure tester (if you have a car size expansion tank or rad cap) and try that 1st??


adithorp - 19/9/10 at 01:28 PM

quote:
Originally posted by tombstone
I mechanic for a guy drag racing a R1 with 5PW, poor oil and condensation make the oil look terrible, we now run the breathers into seperate catch tanks, and use Silkolene oil, no more issues since... get a coolant pressure tester (if you have a car size expansion tank or rad cap) and try that 1st??


Mine used to do that when just running in the workshop. Condensation gets driven off after a while when fully hot

adrian


big_l - 19/9/10 at 08:28 PM

I did this to my first engine it turned out that I broke the o ring fitting the baffle in the sump I run castrol red oil in the new engine and have had no issues check the o rings they perish pretty bad !!!