re the soldering, what type of solder? plumbing solder i guess? is it different to they type you using in electronics?
[Edited on 27/2/11 by blakep82]
Will they react badly together?
No, but araldite doesn't like being heated up and goes soft above 65 degrees C, so not really suited to repairs on your cooling system
Ooh didn't realise it had trouble with temperatures. Wasnt for a repair, but to attach copper olives to the header tank, as the pipes are too small for the oyster tool . Any other suggestions?
What's the header tank made of? Can you solder the olives?
It's aluminium, don't know if they can be soldered? Is prefer to solder right enough
Ali can be soldered. Old boys used to do it on cars. Secret is to scratch through the ali surface under the pool of solder until the solder starts to stick - same technique as with ali welding stuff (Aluweld?) use a stainless rod or stainless brush and scratch the surface while the solder is molten. Little bits will start to stick then it gets easier. It's a bit fiddly and takes some time but once the ali is 'tinned'all round, then should be dead simple to solder the olives.
Why not just use Chemical Metal or JB Weld?
Araldite would most likely be ok, some epoxy resins are better rated than others so may be worth checking specs on them.I once araldited a spark plug
into a lawn mower engine that the threads had been stripped on and it did the job ok.An
alternative maybe to use a brake pipe flaring tool depending on the pipe size.
Paul
We used to make vacuum forming tools from iron filled Araldite epoxy. They withstood temperatures far above typical radiator temps like 110
degrees.
It is true that epoxy will soften when heated but this is usually only once and is part of the post curing process. After that it should take the
temperature without problem. Best to use a filled (iron or Aluminium) epoxy if possible as it will help to dissipate heat to the metal its bonded to
my mx5 is currently running an alloy rad that's patched up in about 20 places where a badly fitted fan wore through the cores (one of those cable
tie jobs, but with no isolation between the fan and the rad cores)
it was patched using unibond metal adhesive from b&q and has seen 2 trackdays on a turbo'd mx5 running 13psi and numerous road miles
(probably 7 or 8k) on my NA since
the edges of the cores were roughed up with 240grit wet and dry then some of the epoxy dolloped over.
should be absolutely fine in your case
tom
awesome, i'll have a look and see i can get in halfords to do the job
re the soldering, what type of solder? plumbing solder i guess? is it different to they type you using in electronics?
[Edited on 27/2/11 by blakep82]
quote:
Originally posted by blakep82
awesome, i'll have a look and see i can get in halfords to do the job
re the soldering, what type of solder? plumbing solder i guess? is it different to they type you using in electronics?
[Edited on 27/2/11 by blakep82]
