My zetec engine had been turning freely after I spent a while putting new big ends in. It then spent about 3 months sat on the dry garage floor whilst
I worked on making the alternator bracket and other bits of the rush. Just put the flywheel back on and bolted a gearbox on, with the next step being
to trial fit it in the rush to start making engine mounts.
However I also bolted up the crank front pulley and realised that the crank isn't spinning. I didn't force it but it was able to resist the
torque of tightening up the crank pulley bolt without moving 
I don't want to have to strip it down again. Any suggestions? Lots of oil down the bores?
Return it back to how it was when it was turning and try again, before doing anything drastic.
possibly the wrong gearbox? but as said, take it back a bit, remove the gearbox, and does it turn over ?
Did you use the original flywheel bolts? I fitted an aftermarket flywheel and had the exact same issue as you. Bolts were too long and fouled the
sump, so wouldn't move!
Previous suggestion of returning to original state is a good idea!
If the crank turned after you installed the bearings and you haven massively mistimed the cams it sounds like the piston rings are rusted in the
bores
First thing is take the spark plugs out and soak some Plugs Gas down the bores, put the plugs back in and leave it for a few days, then pull the
plugs back out and put some WD40 down the bore let it soak and put a socket and power bar on the crank bolt. Without using massive force but try
to turn the crank backwards then forwards several times you may have to do this for a very long time (spread over a few days) but eventually you
will get a mm or so's movement on the bar, then it quite quickly start to free off.
quote:
Originally posted by mccsp
Did you use the original flywheel bolts? I fitted an aftermarket flywheel and had the exact same issue as you. Bolts were too long and fouled the sump, so wouldn't move!
Previous suggestion of returning to original state is a good idea!
As said if you have fitted a non oem flywheel and used the standard bolts that would stop it turning. Have you changed anything with the sump ?
quote:
Originally posted by britishtrident
If the crank turned after you installed the bearings and you haven massively mistimed the cams it sounds like the piston rings are rusted in the bores
First thing is take the spark plugs out and soak some Plugs Gas down the bores, put the plugs back in and leave it for a few days, then pull the plugs back out and put some WD40 down the bore let it soak and put a socket and power bar on the crank bolt. Without using massive force but try to turn the crank backwards then forwards several times you may have to do this for a very long time (spread over a few days) but eventually you will get a mm or so's movement on the bar, then it quite quickly start to free off.
The 1.8 bolts are the same as the 2.0 black and silver tops, the auto ones are way shorter.
If you have fitted ones from say an st170 with a dual mass flywheel they are way longer.
Have you got a link to the ones you bought ?
quote:
Originally posted by big_wasa
The 1.8 bolts are the same as the 2.0 black and silver tops, the auto ones are way shorter.
If you have fitted ones from say an st170 with a dual mass flywheel they are way longer.
Have you got a link to the ones you bought ?
Too long flywheel bolts is a common zetec problem.
There is your problem then.
The mk3 mondeo was never fitted with the zetec. It was launched with the duratec.
They are duratec fly wheel bolts. And dual mass at that.
[Edited on 5/10/13 by big_wasa]
quote:
Originally posted by big_wasa
There is your problem then.
The mk3 mondeo was never fitted with the zetec. It was launched with the duratec.
They are duratec fly wheel bolts. And dual mass at that.
[Edited on 5/10/13 by big_wasa]