Hello guys and girls. Long term reader first time poster here

Ive built a 2.0l Zetec turbo build and originally was running standard focus Rs mk1 management and it didn't really know if it was coming or going so I decided to get an Omex 600 ecu and made my own loom for it, I've spoken to Omex a few times, not related to the issues I'm having now but I intend to ring them next week about this but thought I'd give you lot a go as you seem to know your stuff.

I managed to connect to my ecu and the map4000 software and could see that it was reading my throttle position sensor and the crank position sensor no problem,

The first issue I was having was when I double clicked on the base map that Omex sent me that opened in the mapping software I noticed that once connected to the ecu all the inputs when blank and didn't have information in it. I had to do as the how to from Omex said and save the base map in the map4000/calibrations folder in my documents. Once I did that and clicked " send new calibration" and found the map in the folder I had saved it in and it sent it to the ecu, cycled the ignition on and off a few times I assumed I was then ready to go. I tried with the laptop disconnected and connected to the ecu but the car would just crank over and over, it just wouldn't start. I checked and found I wasn't getting spark or fuel.
It's obviously the first time I've tried to start the car, it's a new ecu with no other map on it at the time.

Has anyone had any similar issues or know of anything I may have missed? Appreciate any help.

Thanks, Dean.

[Edited on 11/02/1989 by D4ENX]

[Edited on 11/02/1989 by D4ENX]

I would be interested in your experiences with the oem ecu as I am doing this at the moment.

Your using the standard rs ecu?

My problems with that was that it was over fueling quite badly, struggled to keep a steady idle and when it warmed up it stalled and if it did keep running one touch of the throttle would make it stall, i spent months trying to sort it out and replaced almost everything. If you do use it and start having similar issues I'd recommend you don't keep chasing for as long as I was

Crap picture I know but here's my build, fully forged.

I can see yours is far from a budget Rs clone. The focus ecu would hate the dump valve.

Looks good

My party trick is wiring as I cant map them. I have loaded a few base maps on to omex 600's. The serial adapters give the most problems but if you can see rpm and temp ect that is fine.

Sounds like your viewing the base map but not writing it to the ecu.

Thanks mate, and that may be what's happening, I click send new calibration and select the base map, the status bar then goes along wring about 2445 bytes or something and then that's it, I'm assuming once that's done its ready to go?

I've done a 20v Golf gti on Tb's with 600 and a Pug Gti6 on Tb's with the 600 ecu but both where some time ago. I am sure you had to write it to the ecu.

My Zt is a budget job for the time being. Did you Have the 2.7 bar fuel reg the Rs is set up for ?



[Edited on 21/11/15 by big_wasa]

Looks good, I like that manifold, what turbo are you using? Also what's going on with the thermostat blanking plate?

I've only ever used adjustable fuel regs, I had a sytec one before and had read bad reviews about them so go a fuelab one I currently have now, although i fitted the fuelab one with the Omex ecu so didn't try running it with the new one. I'm also using an external Bosch 044 fuel pump, I did notice the fuel pressure did make a bit of a difference but seemed the lower I went the better I got but couldn't go any lower than 30 psi but after reading that it should running at around 50 psi I didn't understand why it was still over fueling at 30.



[Edited on 21/11/15 by D4ENX]

[Edited on 21/11/15 by D4ENX]

Subaru Impreza Td04 I just need to clock it. The stat cover is just for mock up to keep the crap out.

Good solid and reliable turbo. Spools quick and maxes out around 270bhp and the important bit is they are cheap and easy to find and should compare well to a Gt25.

Zetec fuel pressure is around 50psi or 380kpa and the Rs around 38psi or 270kpa.

Is that an area 6 inlet mani' ?

No the inlet manifold is of my own design and made it my self, thought it might have been a gt25 but noticed the flange was different.





[Edited on 21/11/15 by D4ENX]

The Rs ecu wouldn't like your Tps either it uses the silver top tps. I've found that gives a bit of a flat spot coming of idle.

Also did the idle valve draw air that has been through the maf or direct from the atmosphere.

[Edited on 21/11/15 by big_wasa]

Can you tell me what forging you have used??

I'm going to be building one and I've just got a mk1 rs ecu that's been bluefinded...

I'm looking to build mine like a mk1 rs with 350bhp...

quote:

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Originally posted by D4ENX
Your using the standard rs ecu?

My problems with that was that it was over fueling quite badly, struggled to keep a steady idle and when it warmed up it stalled and if it did keep running one touch of the throttle would make it stall, i spent months trying to sort it out and replaced almost everything. If you do use it and start having similar issues I'd recommend you don't keep chasing for as long as I was

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Yes mate I have eagle rods andsupertech pistons and yes I had both pre and post sensors wired in. Take note when using the rs ecu, if you get a fault code about the charger cooler pump you'll need to send a 12v ignition live to pin 75 on the ecu, it's a black and white wire.

[Edited on 21/11/15 by D4ENX]

I'll be using a air intercooler. Me and Wasa are going to building a midi but my plan is an intercooler fed by a scoop on top of the motor cover.

Search for Midlana on utube to see what we are building.

And, can I Sam where you got the rods and pistons? I'm looking at Wossner pistons and pec rods at £950 but would love to get the vat off and down to £750...

Yea unless your using the charger cooler pump you'll get that error code so keep it in mind. And I wouldn't know unfortunately as I brought the block with the Pistons and rods fitted already, but just under 1k seems to be the norm, but keep an eye out on eBay and passion ford etc.. As there's a few sets come up from time to time. Or try and see if you can some from the states as they seem to be cheaper over there.

I am well used to making the oem ecu's happy but I am only after 250bhp to start with.

quote:

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Originally posted by D4ENX if you get a fault code about the charger cooler pump you'll need to send a 12v ignition live to pin 75 on the ecu, it's a black and white wire.[Edited on 21/11/15 by D4ENX]

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Sorry forgot to mention that, I basically reconstructed the wiring including the relay.

Anyone any clues as to what I may be doing wrong with my Omex problem?




[Edited on 21/11/15 by D4ENX]

Load up the software and pull down what the ECU thinks it has got. I suspect you haven't pushed the correct map to the unit.

You should be able to crank the engine and see a Tacho signal...if you can't even do this then the crank sensor is not being read.

I was able to see the crank reading 150 ish rpm, and I checked through all the settings that had been sent to me and I clicked the right map when I clicked send new calibration, the status bar went across and finished. I'm assuming then the e u is ready to go? But when cranking there was no fuel or spark.

Here's screen shots of my map that I put on it, does everything look ok? Let me know if any of the advanced setting would be of more help. Thanks

Have you set the TPS up?

I Inputted the TPS Min when closed and max when fully pressed plus 1 as the instruction says to do and it's as it states on the first picture. As you see it is what I sent to the ecu, thanks mate,

So the empty difference tab means the ECU and the map you are editing are the same. Crank sensor works because 150rpm is correct cranking over.

Are you sure the injectors & spark are firing and that they are wired correctly?

Yes I'm almost positive everything was wired correctly, I took my time and gathered allot of information when making the loom and all the colours of the wires where correct right down to the last wire. Does everything on the screen shots look correct and as though it should work? I've got a feeling it's going to be something really simple and I'm going to kick my self

are you getting stat sync when cranking? its a box on the start up screen

i had this issue and it was how to the power of the ecu was cutting under cranking, it will kill ecu power on cranking of it part of the ignition setup

I'm unsure if this box is coming up but I wired the 12v ignition live up to my ignition live wire from the key barrel. I'll make sure I check the feed when cranking thank you

quote:

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Originally posted by D4ENX
I'm unsure if this box is coming up but I wired the 12v ignition live up to my ignition live wire from the key barrel. I'll make sure I check the feed when cranking thank you

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Yea it's got a permanent live also, think the lives, ignition lives and earths may be the first things to check.

Ok so this is embarrassing haha, but turned out the fuse on the permanent 12v live to the ecu had blown which is why I had no spark or fuel, fixed now thought but think I got the wires on the coilpack the wrong way round as it didn't start but popped and banged a bit.

quote:

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Originally posted by D4ENX
Ok so this is embarrassing haha, but turned out the fuse on the permanent 12v live to the ecu had blown which is why I had no spark or fuel, fixed now thought but think I got the wires on the coilpack the wrong way round as it didn't start but popped and banged a bit.

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