I've been having a few problems with my engine, 2.0 Pinto efi, which I think I've got sorted but as I was messing about I knocked the dissy well out as I had left it loose to adjust. Not a problem I thought turned it back to roughly the right place and and connected up my strobe to find out it not working!
Is there any way to static time these engine like with the old points distributors?
I've tried to do it but ear but it doesn't seem happy anywhere I place the dissy.
I've spent too much lately and really don't want to have to buy a new timing light.
If this doesn’t work you need to check distributor wiring
I was thniking more of using a test light on the dissy with the crank pintoing to its marker and then turning the dissy until the test light is just lighting up, used to work a treat but didn't know if it could be done somehow on this type of system with not points.
I'm not sure if to start a new thread but this ignition thing is really doing my nut in.
I've had some time on it today and it run will not set up right.
So it failed the MOT on high HC emissions so I changed the HT leads, dissy cap, rotor am and valve stem seals. The spark plugs we'd fairly new so not changed.
After doing the above the van started fine but after being left running and getting hot the engine started running rough revving up and down to the point of almost stalling, turned it off and checked it over tried to restart but it just wouldn't fire up.
It would only restart from cold with the dissy advanced and when it did it was running rough again revving up and down.
Rechecked the valve clearances before the engine was fully cooled and the clearances were all spot on.
Doubled checked everything else and then started checking the sensors.
When I took off the MAP vacuum pipe the engine smoothed out but still not right (still needing timing advanced) so fitted a new MAP sensor and EGR sensor but this made no difference once connected back up.
So the engine only starts up with the dissy advanced but runs rough whilst keeping the MAP sensor connected, turn the clockwise to retard it and it will run fine with the MAP sensor connected but will still stall once the engine gets hot.
I still keep thinking the issue is the valve clearances but the were right when I did them and right when I checked them, I just keep thinking that the valve are heading up and not fully closing but it can't be.
Anyone ever come across this or have an idea what might be going on.
Just an after thought,
If the transits ran 1.6ltr camshafts on the 2.0ltr engines is there any difference in the valve clearances?
No, 1.6L & 2.0L have the same valve clearance