Rover V8 engines info please.
Danozeman - 21/9/08 at 09:04 AM
Whats the difference betwen the rv8 high and low compression engines?? Power wise etc..
What box would u need to rwd?
How much would u expct to pay for one?
Thanks in advance.
mad4x4 - 21/9/08 at 09:18 AM
IMHO
I wounldn;t touch a v8 they are prone to being very hard to get oil pressure etc.
I had 4 in my Landrover in 2 Years - Even rebuild one with new crank and ring etc.
Sound good when =working but get better power to weight form something Else
--->"MAd4x4 Digs a Fox hole and takes cover for the incomming barrage"
[Edited on 21/909/08 by mad4x4]
Agriv8 - 21/9/08 at 09:37 AM
quote:
Originally posted by Danozeman
Whats the difference betwen the rv8 high and low compression engines?? Power wise etc..
What box would u need to rwd?
How much would u expct to pay for one?
Thanks in advance.
As far as I know the Low compresion engine will give you more tourque and was built for running lower grade fuels. the higher compresion engines will
give better BHP. 9.75 CR is a good one to go for you can get up to 10.5 put these will likly strugle with pinking on unleaded though I suspect you
could get arround thids if running EFI ( fuel and Spark ) .
I have REbuilt 2 v8's and never had a problem with oil presure ( Personally scoring arround the oil pump galery is a problem )
the later serpantine front covers have a better oil pump arangement ( but you are running a greater risk of craked linners from this era IIRC ).
gearbox easy option is an LT77 ( from an SD1 ) but these can feel a little agriculteral to modern boxses and dont like to be rushed.
A better option in my opinion would be to go for a R380
you can also run the t5 from a Cossie ( thats what TVR did for a while )
Or if you can find one and can afford it I am running a BMW Getrag from 635 and custom bellhousing )
Cost from £150 to £4,500 for more info on V8's have a look arround RPI website lots of info.
Let me know if you want further info as I have some intresting V8 articles if you are thinking of going down this route.
As for weater it makes sense or not I like mine 
regards
Agriv8
Paradoxia0 - 21/9/08 at 09:48 AM
Hi
I will probably be corrected on this but I believe the lower the compression ratio the more torque low down. The higher compression ratio more BHP top
end (or that is how the figures look to me).
Taking info from the V8 tuner book....
Specs:
Early 3.5
8.5:1 CR
135bhp @ 4750rpm, 205lbf/ft @ 3000rpm
9.35:1 CR (1981 onwards)
125bhp @ 4000rpm, 185lbf/ft @ 2500rpm
1985 EFi raised this to 165bhp
3.9
185bhp @ 4750rpm, 235lb/ft @ 2600rpm
4.2
200bhp @ 4850rpm, 250lb/ft @ 3250rpm
In my kit I have had (all running on carbs)
3.5 Rover SD1 engine with no oil pressure at all - scrapped
3.5 Range Rover engine - old and clattery but got me through SVA n carbs easily - cost me £250 complete with EFi
4.2 Range Rover engine - dropped a cylinder liner - block scrapped - cost £1500 professionally rebuilt (OUCH!!!)
3.9 Range Rover with 4.2 internals (as 3.9 and 4.2 blocks are the same) and is working faultlessly - free replacement for the 4.2
Gearbox wise I am using the old Rover SD1 LT77 box. Works fine!
The Rover V8s can be a pain, but the sheer effortless grunt and power is great plus you get the lovely v8 burble 
Hope that helps!
Mark
mr henderson - 21/9/08 at 10:05 AM
You won't want the low compression engine for any reason, unless you are going to drive overland across Asia, maybe.
Thing to do with a RV8, in a Locost situation anyway, is not to spend too much money. Buy the book and study it, learn what to look for in a second
hand engine, find a suitable one and fit it. If it goes wrong, find another one and swap it, repairs are too expensive for what they are worth.
There's no point is spending a lot of money, if you are going to do that then there are better engines out there.
If you are going to keep it Locost then an RV8 is an excellent option.
Just one thing, if you are looking at fully equipped RV8s, then the Edelbrock manifold with Weber 500 (Edelbrock) carb is a much better option than
the alternative Offy/Holley combination that you see on some cars.
John
[Edited on 21/9/08 by mr henderson]
blakep82 - 21/9/08 at 10:23 AM
BMW V8?
stevec - 21/9/08 at 03:24 PM
Low compression - - twin turbo?
Danozeman - 21/9/08 at 04:09 PM
Thanks for the info very helpful.
Im just looking for cheap options to get a V8 since i sold my aussie ford ltd i miss the V8 noise!!
Simon - 21/9/08 at 06:26 PM
quote:
Originally posted by stevec
Low compression - - twin turbo?
Why bother with low compression, though I agree with the twin turbo
ATB
Simon
mark chandler - 21/9/08 at 07:04 PM
quote:
Originally posted by mad4x4
IMHO
I wounldn;t touch a v8 they are prone to being very hard to get oil pressure etc.
I had 4 in my Landrover in 2 Years - Even rebuild one with new crank and ring etc.
Sound good when =working but get better power to weight form something Else
--->"MAd4x4 Digs a Fox hole and takes cover for the incomming barrage"
[Edited on 21/909/08 by mad4x4]
Thousands of people would not agree with this statement, yes oil pressure can get low but these engines work on volumn of oil passed, knackered
rockergear will spill oil pressure. Much later engines have a revised front cover with a different pump that sorts this out.
Apart from valve sizes which vary with age low compression engines achieved this with deeper dished pistons so if you want to rebuild its not an
issue, just avoid p6 blocks with rope seals.
A late 3.5 from a range rover is probally the best bet as less lightly to suffer from porosity in heads and blocks, the EFI is on ots own loom so its
just a switched battery, constant battery and an earth to run up.
Gearbox would be LT77 from SDI or Sherpa van, the later r380' s stronger but harder to source as most have a transfer box for FWD stuck on them
when you need a simple tail shaft.
Regards Mark
Regards Mark
02GF74 - 21/9/08 at 07:42 PM
WHY HAVE RV8 GOT SUCH A BAD REPUTATION SORRY caps lock was on,
they need regualar oil changes but will run for a long long time if neglected.
avoid p6 - rope seals, smaller oil pump and smaller vavles in head.
sd1 would be best engine for a kit car.
since they were fitted to land and range rovers, there are loads about and spare are surprisingly cheap.
Paradoxia0 - 21/9/08 at 07:52 PM
The RV8 will take no end of abuse...
I was round my dad's when someone popped in as his Range Rover had just stalled at the top of the drive (he was coming to see my dad anyhow).
I have a quick look as I know a little of the RV8 and soon found the top hose had a split about 5" down the length of it, so needless to say the
engine dumped most of it's coolant very quickly... He saw the temperature was a tad high about 5 miles before, but then it dropped again... As
the car was on the roadside he tried to start it again (which it did once it had cooled) and drove it to someone safer...
Aparently a new hose and some water and the Rangie is still driving around with no ill effects!
Mark
wilkingj - 21/9/08 at 09:22 PM
You just gotta love the RV8.
As everyone says avoid the P6, and some of the early post P6 ones.
You want the Stiff Block one which was from about 1980 onwards.
Its expensive to fully recondition.
Camshafts are scrap after about 80K miles.
Rocker shafts wear.
However they are reliable, robust, produce easy power, and bags of torque.
There are loads about, and spares imported from America are cheap.
However,
You could also consider:
VolvoT5 - 250Bhp out the box and a lovely engine.
BMW M series - not cheap
Saab 2.3 Aero 4 pot power 230bhp out the box and a lot more without chaning the internals. Later engines fit the Vauxhall Omega (GM) gearbox.
Audi 1.8T - nice but expensive.
IMHO its a 5 or 6 pot, as they also give a nice sound. OK not quite as melodic as a V8, but still nice!
mr henderson - 22/9/08 at 07:05 AM
quote:
Originally posted by wilkingj
Audi 1.8T - nice but expensive.
I sold mine for £510 with all the bits on, and yes you are right, it was too expensive for the ebay buyer who has decided to back out .