Blackbird Rush
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| posted on 4/7/09 at 10:28 PM |
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Polishing out scratches
Got some scratches on the tintop that i want to buff out, some light but a few that might need more attention, caught some branches down a narrow lane
Was going to give it a go with t cut or some rubbing compound, i don't think the scratches go through the lacquer.
A dent repair chap was doing some work to one of our company cars a while back and i got him to buff out a deep scratch on the wheel arch whilst he
was there, a quick buff with his polishing mop and it was gone 
Not sure what he used but any recommendations on a good product to use would be cool, i don't have a mop so will be using a bit of elbow
grease
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eccsmk
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| posted on 4/7/09 at 11:03 PM |
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i would guess your best to use g3 followed by g10 (?)
i use menzerna polishes and they are very good by hand.
it might be worth doing a quick search on
detailingworld
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iscmatt
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| posted on 4/7/09 at 11:20 PM |
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quote:
Originally posted by eccsmk
i would guess your best to use g3 followed by g10 (?)
i use menzerna polishes and they are very good by hand.
it might be worth doing a quick search on
detailingworld
agree detailing world is the bee's knee's when it comes to car cleaning!
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DarrenW
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| posted on 6/7/09 at 10:15 AM |
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Ive removed scratches succesfully before using G3 and G10. If a bit deeper you could try 2000 w&d first as well. G3 should get most scratches out
with a decent mop. Surface will become matt, but brought back to nice shine with the G10. Finish off with a decent polish.
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wax-it
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| posted on 6/7/09 at 08:38 PM |
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ag srp.
wont get rid of all the scratch but will remove some and fill some too!
srp worked by hand takes a bit of time thou.
other one is to buy a cheap DA and a few pads.
(u2u if you want links to them)
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Blackbird Rush
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| posted on 12/7/09 at 10:16 AM |
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Thanks for the tips, where is the best place to buy G3 & G10?
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Ninehigh
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| posted on 12/7/09 at 06:59 PM |
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And here was me ready to say "You can't polish out scratches I've been doing it for 2 months now"
So what's all this g3 and g10 and wd200 stuff?
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DarrenW
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| posted on 15/7/09 at 10:44 AM |
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G3 and G10 is made by Ferecla. Most bodyshops in towns will sell it. Probs also motor factors that sell paints (trade type places rather than
motorworlds etc). You should be able to get a plastic bottle of each for about £8 a bottle. Worth getting a couple of sheets of 2000 W&D paper too
while you are there just in case a scratch is a touch deeper.
G3 and G10 is best used with power mop, you can get a Ferecla pad too which are great. However you can do it by hand on smaller scratches if you have
the patience.
G3 will make the surface look matt, its scary at first but the shine will come back with the G10. Follow this with a good quality polish. Depending on
colour and age of car you may be left with a patch that looks fantastic, resulting in you doing the whole car with the G10 You have been warned,
detailing cars is very addictive and time consuming.
As with all compounds, take care you dont burn through on edges or go through the lacquer, safe ish if they havent been cut back before. Plenty of
water and hose down the drive during and afterwards, the mop isnt shy about sharing its spray with anything close by as you need to use them with
water.
ETA - 2000 W&D means 2000 grade wet and dry sandpaper. Most people think 1200 was the finest but this can be too coarse for light scratches, ive
used 2000 grade with good effect (also on gel coat finish - nose cone). Try the G3 first, 2000 if that doesnt shift them. Use the 2000 wet (with a
drop of auto shampoo in water as a lube) and let the paper do the work rather than pressing on too hard - steady away, no prizes for causing a bigger
mess
Ive just done the bonnet on my Audi with lehm clay, HD cleanse and carnauba wax - boy was that labour intensive (Zymol stuff). Got the rest of the car
to do now
[Edited on 15/7/09 by DarrenW]
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Ninehigh
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| posted on 17/7/09 at 06:18 PM |
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I've found a couple of spots that have gone down to the metal and rusted a bit, does the above still apply after sanding the rust off and
repainting or is that a different thing altogether?
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Liam
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| posted on 17/7/09 at 06:51 PM |
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quote:
Originally posted by DarrenW
Ive just done the bonnet on my Audi with lehm clay
Out of interest, what exactly is this 'claying' a car malarky? Remember reading about it on detailing world when I read that thread about
that serious, serious OCD case spending months and god knows how many thousands cleaning a brand new astra. 
Liam
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Liam
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| posted on 17/7/09 at 06:54 PM |
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quote:
Originally posted by Ninehigh
I've found a couple of spots that have gone down to the metal and rusted a bit, does the above still apply after sanding the rust off and
repainting or is that a different thing altogether?
Also - how does it apply to lacquer over base coat (i.e. metalic paint tintop)? When you G3, G10, etc your scratches, presumably you are going
through the lacquer? So do you then need to re-lacquer afterwards, wait for that to dry, then cut and polish the lacquer?
Cheers,
Liam
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Ninehigh
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| posted on 17/7/09 at 06:56 PM |
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Yeah that's a good point, but then laquer is pretty much spray on isn't it? I guess you have to sand it slightly to the perfectly flat
finish..
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