boggle
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| posted on 5/5/10 at 07:12 AM |
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engine position
hi everyone...
started to locate my blade engine in my locost last night and wasnt too sure what position it should sit at???
should the prop adaptor look as though it is in line with the tunnel or should it look like the prop will run out at an angle?
any pics of engine position would be awesome...
also how much should the sump be showing under the chassis ???
many thanks
barry
[Edited on 5/5/10 by boggle]
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scootz
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| posted on 5/5/10 at 07:48 AM |
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Sorry.. can't help on this one Barry, but I have to ask... what's a 'balde' engine?
It's Evolution Baby!
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boggle
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| posted on 5/5/10 at 08:00 AM |
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haha....
its early in the morn....im still sleepy...
will edit...
[Edited on 5/5/10 by boggle]
just because you are a character, doesnt mean you have character....
for all your bespoke parts, ali welding, waterjet, laser, folding, turning, milling, composite work, spraying, anodising and cad drawing....
u2u me for details
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NigeEss
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| posted on 5/5/10 at 08:28 AM |
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Boggle, here's a few pics of a Blade motor in a Stuart Taylor chassis.
The prop here runs straight but I was looking at one of the MK chassis' at stoney
and that had the engine parallel with the front chassis rail and the prop at an angle.
Not a bad idea as it avoids the front being so close to the top rail.
 
Blade install 3
 
Blade install1
 
Blade install 2
[Edited on 5/5/10 by NigeEss]
[Edited on 5/5/10 by NigeEss]
Time is an illusion. Lunchtime doubly so.................Douglas Adams.
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eddie99
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| posted on 5/5/10 at 08:54 AM |
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Just a thought, i also saw the MK one and saw the prop at an angle. Surely you would loose a vast amount of power having it at an angle? Maybe im
wrong, but my guess is if you can, to mount it in line!
Ed
http://www.elitemotorsporteng.co.uk/
Twitter: @Elitemotoreng
Facebook: http://www.facebook.com/pages/Elite-Motorsport-Engineering/153409081394323
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boggle
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| posted on 5/5/10 at 09:01 AM |
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the engine seems to fit better at an angle, and i cant see how you would loose power from the prop being mounted irregular.....the uj should keep it
all good???
please give me your theory edd???
just because you are a character, doesnt mean you have character....
for all your bespoke parts, ali welding, waterjet, laser, folding, turning, milling, composite work, spraying, anodising and cad drawing....
u2u me for details
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eddie99
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| posted on 5/5/10 at 09:03 AM |
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Just would have thought that the UJ would reduce the power. Maybe this is a very little amount and not worth trying to mount it straight... As i said,
probably wrong!
http://www.elitemotorsporteng.co.uk/
Twitter: @Elitemotoreng
Facebook: http://www.facebook.com/pages/Elite-Motorsport-Engineering/153409081394323
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sucksqueezebangblow
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| posted on 5/5/10 at 09:04 AM |
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Most are mounted as close to the scuttle as possible (for better weight distribution, front mid-engined and all that) and at an angle simply because
of the necessary clearance with the side frame rail, and of course the exaust downpipes (unless you are having bespoke pipes made.
Better to Burnout than to Fade Away JET METAL ~ AndySparrow © 
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boggle
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| posted on 5/5/10 at 09:06 AM |
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i agree with you to a point, just trying to work out if it would cause a problem....i will have 3 other ujs in the prop setup and a slider, so now im
thinking that these may also drain some of the power??
just because you are a character, doesnt mean you have character....
for all your bespoke parts, ali welding, waterjet, laser, folding, turning, milling, composite work, spraying, anodising and cad drawing....
u2u me for details
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l0rd
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| posted on 5/5/10 at 09:42 AM |
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aren't they supposed to be on a slight angle?
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matt_gsxr
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| posted on 5/5/10 at 09:49 AM |
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do a search her on brinnel on here, and you will see why people don't run straight prop-shafts.
I don't think that these is an appreciable power loss as the UJ's are well lubed and don't get hot.
Matt
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lsdweb
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| posted on 5/5/10 at 10:48 AM |
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Not a blade (R1) but not a lot of difference. We tried to keep the weight down by not adding too much of a cradle for the engine and bolted it
straight to the chassis. This sits square (leaving the prop output at 90 degrees to the prop) although there's an angle in the vertical plane to
the fixed diff.
 
Rescued attachment header tank install.JPG
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phelpsa
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| posted on 5/5/10 at 11:12 AM |
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With universal joints the faces of the prop flanges should be as parallel as possible, but slightly out of alignment so the rollers are kept
moving.
If they aren't parallel it can cause vibration and premature wear, but if its only a slight angle it will be negligible. Mine's a couple
of degress out to give extra clearance on the top rail.
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boggle
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| posted on 5/5/10 at 11:30 AM |
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at the mo it looks something like this
just because you are a character, doesnt mean you have character....
for all your bespoke parts, ali welding, waterjet, laser, folding, turning, milling, composite work, spraying, anodising and cad drawing....
u2u me for details
|
PLEASE NOTE: This user is a trader who has not signed up for the LocostBuilders registration scheme. If this post is advertising a commercial product or service, please report it by clicking here.
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Brommers
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| posted on 5/5/10 at 12:00 PM |
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Ideally, the propshaft flanges of the diff and the engine will be parallel in both planes, and slightly offset so that there's a slight angle on
each UJ as they don't like being run straight. Personally I try to keep the propshaft angles as small as possible, but I don't think
there's really an issue which larger angles such as those used on the MK installation.
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