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Author: Subject: How to mitre skirting boards.
John P

posted on 18/11/10 at 05:15 PM Reply With Quote
How to mitre skirting boards.

I need to fit a small amount of skirting which is just over 100mm tall.

My electric mitre saw (which was very cheap) is too small so I went out and bought a manual mitre saw from Screwfix but it's absolutely useless as there's so much play in everything that the cut is almost 5mm out over the 100mm length.

I've had a look at various manual mitre saws on line but they all get poor reviews so any advice would be appreciated.

How would a professional carpenter do it?

John.

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slingshot2000

posted on 18/11/10 at 05:20 PM Reply With Quote
Is it an internal or externel mitre that you are trying to cut? How complex is the moulding ?
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BenB

posted on 18/11/10 at 05:21 PM Reply With Quote
I've used my 18v circular saw set at 45 degrees on the baseplate. It even has a nice little notch on the front for the 45 degree setting so you get it spot on.
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John P

posted on 18/11/10 at 05:23 PM Reply With Quote
I need to do both internal and external mitres but the profile is very simple, just a taper towards the top.
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loggyboy

posted on 18/11/10 at 05:27 PM Reply With Quote
I just bought a mitre from wickes for £17 (was gonna get a £10 one from screwfix but it was sold out and didnt wanna spend £26 on there other one).
It seemed fine, one thing it did have strapped to the blade was something like 'ensure the blade has been tightened before use, if it is loose then the accuracy of te cut will be reduced, also ensure the blade is slackened after use.'
Possibly something you need to try?

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zilspeed

posted on 18/11/10 at 05:32 PM Reply With Quote
Nail three pieces of timber into a U shaped box.
With a combination square, mark a 45 deg line on top between both sides.

Now simultaneously cut down both side pieces to create a slot for your saw to run in.

Bingo, you have an accurate mitre box. If you want, you can clamp the skirting into position in the mitre box.

P.S. Don't ever mitre internal joints. Cut one square and run it right into the corner. The next part, cut it to a mitre, then with a coping saw, cut it square but to the profile that the mitre just created. This fits right in agaisnt the bit you just fitted with the square cut. A perfect scribed joint and no daylight in the corner.


Having said all of that, I would just use a new Sandvik 244 and do it freehand, but I've been at it a while now.






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slingshot2000

posted on 18/11/10 at 05:42 PM Reply With Quote
quote:
Originally posted by zilspeed
Nail three pieces of timber into a U shaped box.
With a combination square, mark a 45 deg line on top between both sides.

Now simultaneously cut down both side pieces to create a slot for your saw to run in.

Bingo, you have an accurate mitre box. If you want, you can clamp the skirting into position in the mitre box.

P.S. Don't ever mitre internal joints. Cut one square and run it right into the corner. The next part, cut it to a mitre, then with a coping saw, cut it square but to the profile that the mitre just created. This fits right in agaisnt the bit you just fitted with the square cut. A perfect scribed joint and no daylight in the corner.


Having said all of that, I would just use a new Sandvik 244 and do it freehand, but I've been at it a while now.


Thats just about what i was going to say. And as it is such a simple moulding, you can even do the external corners in a similar way, run one length right to the end of the wall, then run the other length past it and mark the rear side with a pncil and cut to this line. Have a tube od decorators caulk to fill any small imperfections.
And remember, 2 x 45s are only any good if your corner is spot on 90degrees!

[Edited on 18/11/10 by slingshot2000]

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JoelP

posted on 18/11/10 at 06:22 PM Reply With Quote
Ive been doing skirting all day as it happens! Mine was also 100mm chamfered, and it *just* fitted vertically in my chopsaw. Its a right pain doing it flat with the blade at 45 dergees. Surely you must know someone who would lend you a big enough chopsaw?

Any inaccuracies can be filled in when you caulk it all.





Beware! Bourettes is binfectious.

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Confused but excited.

posted on 18/11/10 at 06:23 PM Reply With Quote
Whatever you do, DO NOT buy a plastic moulded mitre box.

I found this out the hard way, after cutting all the skirting boards for a room.

The slots are not vertical but slope to make it easier to get out of the mould. So all the joints have a gap at the top.

So why do the stupid maggots keep making and selling them.





Tell them about the bent treacle edges!

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David Jenkins

posted on 18/11/10 at 06:51 PM Reply With Quote
quote:
Originally posted by Confused but excited.


So why do the stupid maggots keep making and selling them.


'Cos stupid maggots keep buying them?








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oadamo

posted on 18/11/10 at 07:01 PM Reply With Quote
quote:
Originally posted by David Jenkins
quote:
Originally posted by Confused but excited.


So why do the stupid maggots keep making and selling them.


'Cos stupid maggots keep buying them?





owned

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plentywahalla

posted on 18/11/10 at 07:15 PM Reply With Quote
Echo Zilspeed !! cut square end into corner and profile the other to match.

Soooo much easier and joint can be filled easier too.

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Peteff

posted on 18/11/10 at 08:13 PM Reply With Quote
Get some square timber the same or similar thickness and cut to the depth of your skirting. Cut your skirting to fit into the corner minus the thickness of the wood. Put the square wood into the corner and butt both your skirting pieces up to it. It looks different but tidy and makes the job so much simpler. If you are painting it you will not even notice it after. On outside corners chamfer the top and pin it to the end of one piece then butt the other up.

[Edited on 18/11/10 by Peteff]





yours, Pete

I went into the RSPCA office the other day. It was so small you could hardly swing a cat in there.

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owelly

posted on 18/11/10 at 08:14 PM Reply With Quote
As said, scribe internal joints and I use a 90* V cutter in the router for externals!





http://www.ppcmag.co.uk

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Confused but excited.

posted on 18/11/10 at 09:31 PM Reply With Quote
quote:
Originally posted by David Jenkins
quote:
Originally posted by Confused but excited.


So why do the stupid maggots keep making and selling them.


'Cos stupid maggots keep buying them?




Et tu brutal. With apologies to that bloke from Stratford.





Tell them about the bent treacle edges!

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thunderace

posted on 18/11/10 at 09:44 PM Reply With Quote
ebay has the tool i got for skirting as i do a lot

Item number: 120641749448

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Bitten hero

posted on 18/11/10 at 09:52 PM Reply With Quote
As a chippy you would always scribe internals, I always used and still do a hand mitre saw and the only one that is any use at all is a NOBEX(swedish) mine will cut 7" skirt and be so good i dont have to use any filler at all for the external joints .gary.
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hughpinder

posted on 19/11/10 at 08:38 AM Reply With Quote
No special tools needed!
I just draw the line with a pencil and use a panel saw to cut at 45degrees (by eye)
Regards
Hugh

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interestedparty

posted on 19/11/10 at 12:19 PM Reply With Quote
quote:
Originally posted by Bitten hero
As a chippy you would always scribe internals, I always used and still do a hand mitre saw and the only one that is any use at all is a NOBEX(swedish) mine will cut 7" skirt and be so good i dont have to use any filler at all for the external joints .gary.



Agree about the scribing


Agree about the Nobex. Cost 4 times as much, worth 20 times as much (as the cheap crap)

You can even get a metal cutting blade and cut the tube for your next chassis with it.





As some day it may happen that a victim must be found,
I've got a little list-- I've got a little list
Of society offenders who might well be underground,
And who never would be missed-- who never would be missed!

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