Krismc
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| posted on 23/4/11 at 04:33 PM |
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MNR Inboard Front End??
Went out for a BLAT today with a few cars including a MNR RT, MK indy and a Robin Hood, and they all managed on all the roads we went on, but my car
skipped around the road and hit every bump in road and bottomed out a fair few times, My car is around 2" lower than all the other cars. But i
cant get the ride height any higher.
Ive wound my suspension up as much as possible, if i wind it up anymore then the alluminium suspension tops(the bit the push rod attaches too) Hit and
bang the chassis rails, the bottom wishbones are as flat as i can get them and the push rods are wound out quite far 15mm thread exposed on both
ends.
Here are some pics of what i ended up with - although with all the suspension settings the same each side the car is 5mm higher on the right, which is
a bit strange but can be adjusted around and the car body is only 80mm off the floor at Sides at front, and the nose cone is 55mm from the floor. 
Which is probably why i hit every thing
(measurements taken on flat drive, not on that spungy floor)
Can any other MNR owner with a Inboard front end RT plus, can you let me know how high you can get your car off the deck at the front end? and how
close your alluminium suspension tops are too the chassis rails??
[Edited on 23/4/11 by Krismc]
Built, Ivaed, Drove and now Sold - 2011 MNR VORTX RT+ 2000cc Zetec on R1 Throttle boddies.
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coozer
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| posted on 23/4/11 at 04:57 PM |
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Cracking day out. you missed the best bit Kris, the road from Tan Hill over the Stang had me in stitches... totally clear air under Terry's car
at a couple of places
Mine stuck like glue and never bottomed out anywhere, totally knackered and sun burnt now
[Edited on 23/4/11 by coozer]
1972 V8 Jago
1980 Z750
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lotusmadandy
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| posted on 23/4/11 at 05:02 PM |
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It was indeed a good day out,though i need to look at my sump guard.
It's wrapped around the bottom of my sump and doesnt sound very good.
Still,the oil pressure held and i had a good run home.
We have to do that run a good few times over the summer,it's a cracking set of roads.
Andy
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daniel mason
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| posted on 23/4/11 at 05:05 PM |
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the bottom bones are not flat and the pushrods need winding out a bit more. 15mm is not a lot
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Craigman9
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| posted on 23/4/11 at 05:06 PM |
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I am super jealous reading this thread 
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Krismc
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| posted on 23/4/11 at 05:27 PM |
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quote:
Originally posted by coozer
Cracking day out. you missed the best bit Kris, the road from Tan Hill over the Stang had me in stitches... totally clear air under Terry's car
at a couple of places
Mine stuck like glue and never bottomed out anywhere, totally knackered and sun burnt now
[Edited on 23/4/11 by coozer]
Aye, Mud guard snapped off 3 times, fuel guage failed at last minute(just a wire broke) and car bottomed out loads, apart from that it was a great
great day out.
Built, Ivaed, Drove and now Sold - 2011 MNR VORTX RT+ 2000cc Zetec on R1 Throttle boddies.
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Krismc
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| posted on 23/4/11 at 05:29 PM |
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quote:
Originally posted by lotusmadandy
It was indeed a good day out,though i need to look at my sump guard.
It's wrapped around the bottom of my sump and doesnt sound very good.
Still,the oil pressure held and i had a good run home.
We have to do that run a good few times over the summer,it's a cracking set of roads.
Andy
My sump is now totally silver again, all the paint is worn off!
quote:
I am super jealous reading this thread
you should be, it was indeed a good day out - especially as we all filled up when we left - At first petrol stations Coozer, and (sorry i didnt get ya
name in the BEC) didnt require a fill up Andy used £7, the Robin hood(sorry i didnt get ya name) used £23 and i used £24. Hmmm
Although my car was missing and running on 3 occasionally at certain revs, but on getting home, i found that the plugs too the injectors aint over
clever and one doesnt click into place very well.
quote:
Originally posted by daniel mason
the bottom bones are not flat and the pushrods need winding out a bit more. 15mm is not a lot
Thats 15mm plus what ever is behind the nut say 8-9mm !! i think thats a lot, how long are the rosejoints??
[Edited on 23/4/11 by Krismc]
[Edited on 23/4/11 by Krismc]
Built, Ivaed, Drove and now Sold - 2011 MNR VORTX RT+ 2000cc Zetec on R1 Throttle boddies.
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INDY BIRD
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| posted on 23/4/11 at 05:46 PM |
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ws going to say winde the push rods out to raise height. also what spring !lb are you running you could also turn the dampers firmer by clicking them
clockwise to increase damping this may help,??
nice day for a drive
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Krismc
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| posted on 23/4/11 at 05:51 PM |
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Ive got the standard MNR spring, (175 i think), how many clicks is a normal setup? Id like to be able too take the car out and keep adjusting until
its better, but i need to remove bonnet and nose cone to get at them behind rad
[Edited on 23/4/11 by Krismc]
Built, Ivaed, Drove and now Sold - 2011 MNR VORTX RT+ 2000cc Zetec on R1 Throttle boddies.
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Davey D
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| posted on 23/4/11 at 06:20 PM |
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what you will probably find is that most MNR are bike engined, thus lighter at the front end. I bet youve got the same rated springs, and dampers, and
because youve got a boat anchor... erm i mean car engine  it will be heavier thus needing higher rated springs
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Krismc
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| posted on 23/4/11 at 06:58 PM |
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quote:
Originally posted by Davey D
what you will probably find is that most MNR are bike engined, thus lighter at the front end. I bet youve got the same rated springs, and dampers, and
because youve got a boat anchor... erm i mean car engine it will be heavier thus needing higher rated springs
No I've got the right springs for sure!
Built, Ivaed, Drove and now Sold - 2011 MNR VORTX RT+ 2000cc Zetec on R1 Throttle boddies.
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whitestu
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| posted on 23/4/11 at 07:32 PM |
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I know nothing about MNRs but it looks too low to me.
As for skipping about over bumps, I improved my Indy a lot by adjusting the rack height to get rid of as much bump steer as possible. I ended up with
the rack being nearly 10mm higher than it was before and it stopped the car feeling like it was going to throw me into a ditch every time one wheel
hit a big bump.
Stu
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daniel mason
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| posted on 23/4/11 at 08:35 PM |
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im on 350lb front srings by the way! are you sure your spring rate is correct? take a rosejoint out and see how long it is. i think you will have a
bit to play with. they need winding out.
i know from reading your posts that funds were very tight but i would consider taking the car to prcomp for a full geo set up! after reading posts
from some of the racers on here.procomp seem to set them up as well as anyone. obviously when funds allow.
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MikeR
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| posted on 23/4/11 at 08:52 PM |
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Daft question - was your car designed for the road or track? The sort of hight your running has me thinking its designed for the track. Have you
spoken to MNR? Surely they should be able to say what ride height it should be running at and what you need to do to get it there.
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coozer
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| posted on 23/4/11 at 08:53 PM |
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As said Kris, another vote for Procomp
1972 V8 Jago
1980 Z750
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Agriv8
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| posted on 23/4/11 at 10:14 PM |
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for road going cars bottom arms parallel with the ground.
can you wind the spring platforms up but looks like you have tried that. so three options left wrong push rods ( too short ) bottom arms on upside
down ( depends on vintage )
ps cant remember the springs proping up my v8
regards agriv8
[Edited on 23/4/11 by Agriv8]
Taller than your average Guy !
Management is like a tree of monkeys. - Those at the top look down and see a tree full of smiling faces. BUT Those at the bottom look up and see a
tree full of a*seholes .............
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paublo999
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| posted on 24/4/11 at 12:00 AM |
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car definately too low, longer push rods would be my suggestion and it looks like you could be getting loads of bump steer as stated in previous
posts.
Standard protech shocks are valved too heavy IMO, but I know Marc has different thoughts on optimal setups. If the shocks are damping too much the car
will be skipping around like on hot coals.
Cheers
Paul.
My videos http://www.youtube.com/user/ninjabogeyracing
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Johneturbo
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| posted on 24/4/11 at 07:56 AM |
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One of the things i'm going to do at stoneleigh is speak with protech (if they are there) about different valving
Stu, is there a formula on how to check for rack alighment/bumpsteer, mine is like it's on hot coals...even more so with our lovely british well
maintained roads!
but that could be over valving on the shocks.
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Krismc
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| posted on 24/4/11 at 08:18 AM |
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Well all is on the right way, as its been to MNR a year, im sure they would have spotted a mistake. Longer push rods would be nice but id have to get
them from MNR i suppose
Built, Ivaed, Drove and now Sold - 2011 MNR VORTX RT+ 2000cc Zetec on R1 Throttle boddies.
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daniel mason
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| posted on 24/4/11 at 08:26 AM |
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i would take out a rosejoint first to see the length of it. jack the car up and wind the pushrods out until the bottom bones are past parallel than
lower it down again.bottom arms should sit almost parralel.
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Krismc
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| posted on 24/4/11 at 08:36 AM |
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Can someone first confirm how much thread i can leave exposed, i wouldnt want to snap them!!
33mm of thread from shoulder to end of rosejoint.
[Edited on 24/4/11 by Krismc]
Built, Ivaed, Drove and now Sold - 2011 MNR VORTX RT+ 2000cc Zetec on R1 Throttle boddies.
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whitestu
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| posted on 24/4/11 at 10:22 AM |
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quote:
Stu, is there a formula on how to check for rack alighment/bumpsteer, mine is like it's on hot coals...even more so with our lovely british well
maintained roads!
What I did was:
Park the car so one wheel was parellel with the garage wall with the wheels straight ahead
Measure the ride height then take the shock off and get the chassis to the same height as measured
Attach a laser pointer [one of the cheap ones that are mounted on an angle guage] so that it is at 90 degrees to the brake disk
Draw a vertial line on the garage wall in line with where laser pointer points
I then lifted the hub up and down and watched how the laser pointer tracked the line on the wall. If no bump steer it should go straight up in line
with the vertical line I had drawn.
Mine was well out so I spaced the rack up a bit at a time by puttting big washers under each mounting point until I got it so the laser pointer was as
close as I could get it to the vertical line across the normal range of movement of the hub.
I then did the same on the other side.
It made a big difference.
Stu
[Edited on 24/4/11 by whitestu]
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Johneturbo
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| posted on 24/4/11 at 05:59 PM |
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Kris, i'd check how much thread is on the insert in the pushrod that would be the minimum i'd have threaded in, if that makes sense?
Stu, that makes perfect sense.. (unlike my answer) i will give that a go easy enough just to get a rough idea if it's out by much 
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Krismc
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| posted on 24/4/11 at 06:42 PM |
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The push rod looks to have nuts welded on each end - one lefty loosy and one righty loosy - so id say 8-9mm is the average nut width.
Ive managed to get the front of the car up by 20mm by lenghtening the push rod and then winding the springs up at the same time so that the Top Ally
rocker above spring doesnt hit chassis - car sits a lot higher now and back is 25 mm higher than front.
Just the camber and toe to set up now and im done.
From rose joint shoulder to where it enters push rod is 34mm can anyone else confirm how much they have sticking out?? this is only under very little
tension and lots off compression so the rosejoints cant snap like this can they?? ( Taking pic now)
[Edited on 24/4/11 by Krismc]
Built, Ivaed, Drove and now Sold - 2011 MNR VORTX RT+ 2000cc Zetec on R1 Throttle boddies.
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lotusmadandy
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| posted on 24/4/11 at 06:53 PM |
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Kris,if you only needed to add say the thickness of a nut
to lengthen the pushrod why not buy a pair of nuts and screw them
onto the rod ends leaving say 20mm thread on the end of the rod end.
Screw the rod end back into the push rod and weld the new nut onto the end
of the pushrod.
That would give you at least another 10mm adjustment for a small outlay.
Andy
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