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Author: Subject: Transmission for duratec engine
michael kitching

posted on 28/12/11 at 10:31 AM Reply With Quote
Transmission for duratec engine

Hi folks and merry Christmas

I have decided to go with the duratec engine for my build and was wondering what my best options are for a gear box.

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ali f27

posted on 28/12/11 at 10:56 AM Reply With Quote
Hi type 9 and have a look at RWD motorsport
Cheers Ali

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big-vee-twin

posted on 28/12/11 at 11:01 AM Reply With Quote
You will need T9 box.

A Duratec to T9 Bell housing

The flywheel will need to be changed to a ST150 flywheel if it is not a ST150 engine.

You will need a Heavy Duty Pinto friction plate for the clutch.

You will need an old Zetec clutch plate, I used an upgraded RS Turbo clutch plate, to handle to power increase of Throttle bodies.

You will need an actuating mechanism I used Hydraulic using Titan slave cylinder and SAAB type release bearing.

Hope you have lots of cash, I did now I don't!!


Oh and that's just for starters!!

[Edited on 28/12/11 by big-vee-twin]





Duratec Engine is fitted, MS2 Extra V3 is assembled and tested, engine running, car now built. IVA passed 26/02/2016

http://www.triangleltd.com

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hootsno1

posted on 28/12/11 at 11:06 AM Reply With Quote
I have a MT75 with 2.3 transit lpg duratec transit bell housing
not the cheapest route as the bell housing cost £309.
If you go with the type 9 you will need to go with a H/D gearbox if you make any mods to the engine as the box is not that strong
I have read that some people have seen 300 bhp from a mt75 with no problems?





If a little hammer won't fix it get a bigger hammer

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snapper

posted on 28/12/11 at 11:10 AM Reply With Quote
MT75 takes more torque than a Type 9
250 is what I heard
Have you thought about Mazda 5 or 6 speed MX5 gearboxes as an option, should bolt straight on





I eat to survive
I drink to forget
I breath to pi55 my ex wife off (and now my ex partner)

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speedystew

posted on 28/12/11 at 11:50 AM Reply With Quote
there's nothing wrong with the mt75 box and you will have no probs with a type 9 on a standard (ish) engine

i would go for a type 9 myself as all the upgrade boxes are based on it's dimensions and you can also get gear kits from quaife tranx bgh etc for the type 9 (as far as i know nothing is available for mt 75)

the duratec is very expensive to do properly as has been said,as well as all the bits required for the install you may also want to consider getting the crank keyed and fitting an upgraded crank pully (known to fail at high rpm) and there is a cam chain tensioner issue too for details have a look at raceco http://www.raceco.com/fordd.html

for more details on whats involved have a look at
sbd (engine conversion parts)
raceline (engine conversion parts)
raceco (engine conversion parts)
rwdmotorsport (bellhousings etc) i would advise getting all your driveline components from same place if possible ie bellhousing, clutch plate and cover,and actuator





duratec,it's so last year

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Furyous

posted on 28/12/11 at 11:57 AM Reply With Quote
I'm going with an MX5 5 speed box for my Duratec. It's the 2006 onward, Mk3 "N7" box. It apparently bolts straight on, however it means the engine leans 10 degrees towards the exhaust side. The other problem is the narrow part is 7" across while the Type 9 is 6". Someone said about grinding parts off the MX5 box but I can't see much that can be taken off. The MX5 bellhousing is about 11 inches long, whereas I think the Type 9 housings are something like 7". It's also wider, meaning it protrudes lower under the engine, and can stick out past some shortened sumps.

I've gone for the standard MX5 flywheel, starter, and clutch. They should be an easy fit. They haven't arrived yet, and I don't have an engine to put them on. So I can't say if it's the right way to go. I'm guessing that seeing as the standard MX5 is about 160-170bhp, then the clutch should be ok with about 180bhp.

Raceline sell a special sump designed to compensate for the 10* angle.



I might have a Type 9 for sale fairly soon, assuming I can fit the MX5 box in without much trouble. The trapezium shaped transmission tunnel in the Fury is about 6" near the top but I might get away with having the gearbox a bit lower.

[Edited on 28/12/11 by Furyous]

[Edited on 28/12/11 by Furyous]

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atm92484

posted on 28/12/11 at 03:36 PM Reply With Quote
I'm running the NC MX5 5-speed with a stock 2.0 Duratec and have been happy. Its plug and play with no custom machining. I only had to lob off two small mounts near the tail of the transmission since they hit the tunnel.

If you can find one and it will fit the chassis, its a painless choice.





-Andrew
Build Log

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eddie99

posted on 28/12/11 at 03:38 PM Reply With Quote
Has anyone put 200+bhp through a mx5 box yet?
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MkIndy7

posted on 28/12/11 at 04:41 PM Reply With Quote
quote:
Originally posted by eddie99
Has anyone put 200+bhp through a mx5 box yet?



The actual 'box of gears' part on the gearbox looks the same as the old MX5 and there's plenty of them running tweaked engines and Turbo's etc.
When we had our prop made at Dunning & Fairbanks they had a fresh delivery of the MX5 box yokes in as Ginetta just up the road are using them on one of their cars now.

Lovely gearbox compared to the type 9 but as said larger in a few places and it needs to be mx5 parts from the crank backwards and the starter, it also has a hydraulic clutch arm that sticks out abit aswell.

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atm92484

posted on 28/12/11 at 11:23 PM Reply With Quote
quote:
Originally posted by MkIndy7
it needs to be mx5 parts from the crank backwards and the starter, it also has a hydraulic clutch arm that sticks out abit aswell.


I'm using a starter from a US automatic Focus (same car that donated the engine). The Miata flywheel and the Focus flex plate both had the same diameter, tooth pitch, and tooth count. As usual it wouldn't surprise me if we got something different than the rest of the world but it might be worth investigating.

[Edited on 28/12/11 by atm92484]

[Edited on 28/12/11 by atm92484]





-Andrew
Build Log

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MkIndy7

posted on 29/12/11 at 12:46 AM Reply With Quote
We had fiesta ST150 solid flywheel and starter with the engine.

Bought a MX5 friction disk (to match the gbox splines) and tried to use the ST150 pressure plate and the whole assembly was too long to mate upto the mx5 box.

Then bought a MX5 pressure plate, the bolts on this were a lot further out than the tapped holes on the ST150 flywheel

Bough a MX5 flywheel and everything bolted together ok... But the ST150 starter wouldn't fit so ended up with an MX5 one of those aswell (maybe a dual mass one might have fitted) the ring gear was closer to the crank than on the ST150 flywheel possibly needed spacing out.

But I've slept since then but that was pretty much the order of events so would recommend anybody in the future to plan for MX5 from the start so they know what their getting into.

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michael kitching

posted on 29/12/11 at 08:02 PM Reply With Quote
Thanks for all the info guys after all that I think I will go back to my original plan of using an mx5 engine and box seems easier and cheaper. Anyone know where I can get a donor vehicle apart from "the bay"
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Gear Monkey

posted on 30/12/11 at 11:36 PM Reply With Quote
Alright Kitch,

I've been wheeling and dealing from across the pond and I've done a deal on a 1.8 (Variable valve timing model with 152bhp) with all the ancillaries, ECU, Loom, 5 speed box and Prop shaft. And the best part is it's just about ran in having only done 30,000 miles.

As soon as I'm back we'll collect our steel and get welding.....Can't wait!!

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michael kitching

posted on 31/12/11 at 08:32 AM Reply With Quote
Alrite globe trotter
Getting really excited about it now I watched an old top gear last night where they were building a 7 got the taste buds tingling. By the way I was doing 75kg power snatches yesterday only 2 kg under my body weight.
See you soon

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Gear Monkey

posted on 2/1/12 at 07:21 PM Reply With Quote
Good job on the snatch!

So any luck with an engine and gearbox? Are you looking for a MK2 1.8 like the one I'm using? I suggest we power up the one in the scrappy to check mileage and to see how it sounds, could be a bargain at £350 and you'll get uprights and brakes.

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michael kitching

posted on 2/1/12 at 08:22 PM Reply With Quote
Yeah could be worth looking at the scrappy one but I have got my brother in law to put his feelers out for one as well. I understand the 1.8 engines are 50kgs heavier than the 1.6 so do you think there would be much difference?
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Gear Monkey

posted on 2/1/12 at 08:31 PM Reply With Quote
I'd be very surprised if the 1.8 engine and box was 50kg heavier than a 1.6 as they look very similar externally, i guess there may be a slight increase but only a few kg's i'd have thought.
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michael kitching

posted on 2/1/12 at 08:55 PM Reply With Quote
I just had a look on the Haynes site and that says it's a lot heavier and it dosent rev as high as the 1.6 but it seems to be personnel choice and there's lots of conflicting evidence on them both.
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rdodger

posted on 2/1/12 at 09:18 PM Reply With Quote
The 1.6 as a car is lighter. This is due to smaller/lighter diff, driveshafts, prop, brakes, flywheel/clutch.

The engine weights are approx the same. The revs are also about the same, though the 1.6 will rev a little better. A light flywheel on the 1.8 should make it the same.

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