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Author: Subject: ZX12 Clutch ( advise please )
Phoenix-Rob

posted on 24/10/12 at 09:19 AM Reply With Quote
ZX12 Clutch ( advise please )

Just toasted the clutch in my ZX12 Phoenix on recent trackday, so I am rebuilding it with Genuine friction plates and steels.

Is it best to have narrow and wide friction plates as standard, or fit 12 wide ones?

Do I fit standard or uprated springs or 3 of each?

Does anyone drill their inner hub/basket for better oil supply to plates?

If anyone has a secondhand billet basket for sale I would very interested.

Thanks
Rob

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maccmike

posted on 24/10/12 at 09:53 AM Reply With Quote
one I think I can answer, 3 heavy springs
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bigbravedave

posted on 24/10/12 at 11:47 AM Reply With Quote
hmmm, I've done 3000 enthusiastic miles on a 100% OEM stock set up in an early A1 zx12r engined stuart taylor loco.... without the slightest hint of slip. I have read all the issues on the net but so far the only issue I've seen first hand with this set-up is repeated clutch dumping hard launches, where the tangs on the basket fatigue then let go.

I don't know if oil has anything to do with it but I was violated £50 for a gallon of silkolene (some ambiguoous name).

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twybrow

posted on 24/10/12 at 07:21 PM Reply With Quote
quote:
Originally posted by bigbravedave
hmmm, I've done 3000 enthusiastic miles on a 100% OEM stock set up in an early A1 zx12r engined stuart taylor loco.... without the slightest hint of slip. I have read all the issues on the net but so far the only issue I've seen first hand with this set-up is repeated clutch dumping hard launches, where the tangs on the basket fatigue then let go.

I don't know if oil has anything to do with it but I was violated £50 for a gallon of silkolene (some ambiguoous name).


I have oem plates and steel, with uprated (10% stiffer) springs. 1000 miles and no sign of slip - I do need to modify my pedal/cable arrangement as it is a lot more on/off than the last bike engine I ran in the car.

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bigbravedave

posted on 24/10/12 at 08:06 PM Reply With Quote
I thought i had built in about the right clutch pedal to clutch input ratio initially. But was finding that i could either pull away gently or full bore launch but strugled with the inbetween enthusiastic subtle pull away. I adjusted the pedal ratio so that the clutch bite poin is now spread over an inch of pedal travel and its transformed the car. I used to dread hill starts in city centre rush hour but since i adjusted it alls good
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Phoenix-Rob

posted on 31/10/12 at 04:38 PM Reply With Quote
Any more experiences to share ?
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Hellfire

posted on 31/10/12 at 05:58 PM Reply With Quote
Standard clutch plates with uprated Barnett springs. 8 years of BEC abuse including trackdays, dragstrips and fast road. Never had to replace a clutch on a BEC yet........

Phil






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Phoenix-Rob

posted on 31/10/12 at 07:00 PM Reply With Quote
I think my clutch had some abuse before I got it, was spare race engine for kit car series.
The basket has been damaged at some time, one of the locating tabs is missing and the sharp edges have been rounded off, so not recently broken.

This is why I am looking for a billet ( or very good standard ) basket.

I am planing on using 12 full size genuine friction plates and 11x 1.6mm steels with up rated springs.

That is unless recommended otherwise.

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turbo911

posted on 31/10/12 at 07:56 PM Reply With Quote
For what its worth i would stick with the oem standard set up with either standard or barnett springs i would pay particular attention to whether the friction plates are the same thickness, ie find a manual and follow it i know from experience that the zx10 clutch uses different thickness friction plates in a certain order follow this and it will last ages!!!!!
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BobM

posted on 31/10/12 at 10:22 PM Reply With Quote
I just run OEM plates with standard springs in my ZX10. Lasted a whole season in RGB with a few test and trackdays thrown in.





Not very Locost but very BEC

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