theduck
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| posted on 1/1/13 at 10:46 PM |
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Not the normal pinto water temp sender question
I got some new gauges the other day and went to fit the water temp sender today and it doesnt fit ( the actual sensor is too big) so I have come to
the conclusion that I have two options:
1) fit some kind of adaptor to the original sensor location
2) fit the sensor elsewhere
My concerns are that going with option 1 that I will end up not getting proper flow past the sensor so it wont read accurately. Option 2, i'm
not sure where I would put it, presumably in one of the coolant hoses, but would this give an accurate reading? I have seen the inline adaptors so
could use one of those.
[Edited on 1/1/13 by theduck]
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theduck
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| posted on 1/1/13 at 11:06 PM |
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another problem with option 2 is every hose adaptor I can find is 1/8npt thread, same as the head, so the new sender still wouldnt fit.
[Edited on 1/1/13 by theduck]
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snapper
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| posted on 2/1/13 at 07:16 AM |
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Gauge manufacturers often have different sized senders for different engines, ask them.
After market gauges usually work to the same resistance rating, therefore a universal guage off eBay should work.
Oil temp senders are the same as water temp senders
[Edited on 2/1/13 by snapper]
I eat to survive
I drink to forget
I breath to pi55 my ex wife off (and now my ex partner)
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renetom
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| posted on 2/1/13 at 10:04 AM |
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temp
Hi
We fitted ours on a T in the top hose
We found that to be accurate as the rad
fan switch kick in at 95 degrees & when the fan kicks in the gauge reads 96 which is near enough
good luck
René
[Edited on 2/1/13 by renetom]
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blakep82
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| posted on 2/1/13 at 12:05 PM |
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quote:
Originally posted by renetom
Hi
We fitted ours on a T in the top hose
We found that to be accurate as the rad
fan switch kick in at 95 degrees & when the fan kicks in the gauge reads 96 which is near enough
good luck
René
[Edited on 2/1/13 by renetom]
That's what I did. Look up rakeway.co.UK, they sell aluminium fittings in every size ever, get someone to weld one in a bit of pipe, and sorted
________________________
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don't write OT on a new thread title, you're creating the topic, everything you write is very much ON topic!
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britishtrident
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| posted on 2/1/13 at 12:48 PM |
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quote:
Originally posted by renetom
Hi
We fitted ours on a T in the top hose
We found that to be accurate as the rad
fan switch kick in at 95 degrees & when the fan kicks in the gauge reads 96 which is near enough
good luck
René
[Edited on 2/1/13 by renetom]
You could say as inaccurate as the rad -- but the gauge should read engine coolant temperature before the thermostat not
radiator inlet temperature.
If the sensor for the temperature gauge is in the rad or top hose and the engine is short of coolant or the thermostat is stuck closed or the
water pump drive belt fails or totall loss of coolant the temper gauge won't pick it up until the coolant boils.
Top hose & radiator inlet temperature are virtually the same.
Fan switches should go in the rad or top hose because they control the radiator temperature.
[Edited on 2/1/13 by britishtrident]
[I] “ What use our work, Bennet, if we cannot care for those we love? .”
― From BBC TV/Amazon's Ripper Street.
[/I]
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Paul Turner
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| posted on 2/1/13 at 01:47 PM |
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One major issue having the temp gauge sender on the radiator side of the stat is the fact it will not register the engine temp until the stat opens.
If the stat fails closed there is a chance that the gauge will never register the true engine temp, with the stat permanantly closed the engine will
overheat and become damaged.
The engine maker puts the sender in the original position for a reason.
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umgrybab
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| posted on 2/1/13 at 09:09 PM |
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I've never have a thermostat stick closed. I've probably replaced 8-10 of them in various engines and its always because they get stuck
partly open causing the engine to take forever to warm up, then when worked hard they overheat. But you get the gauge reading and warning as the
coolant is flowing as the thermostat is open. 
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Paul Turner
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| posted on 3/1/13 at 07:35 AM |
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Just because you have not had a stat stick in the closed position does not mean it will never happen. Personally I have never had a stat stick at all
although an engine I bought form a scrappie did have a stat in it that was stuck fully open.
If it stuck partly open you will get a reading, if its stck closed you will not.
Get the correct sender to fit in the correct position, they are all available.
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britishtrident
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| posted on 3/1/13 at 08:44 AM |
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quote:
Originally posted by umgrybab
I've never have a thermostat stick closed. I've probably replaced 8-10 of them in various engines and its always because they get stuck
partly open causing the engine to take forever to warm up, then when worked hard they overheat. But you get the gauge reading and warning as the
coolant is flowing as the thermostat is open.
Yes modern (ie 1960s on) wax thermostats tend to open earlier with age but I have changed a lot for sticking closed mainly due to owners sticking
Radweld in the system.
[I] “ What use our work, Bennet, if we cannot care for those we love? .”
― From BBC TV/Amazon's Ripper Street.
[/I]
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