Norfolkluegojnr
|
| posted on 11/4/13 at 07:58 PM |
|
|
Polishing the new project - tips on renovating faded paint?
The turbo mini has gone, and a new project graces the garage - a 95 1.8 mx5 in BRG (now saving for a TVR but that's another story).
The car is mechanically sound (I'd expect no less buying from another LCBer) but the paint work is tired.
I want to bring back the factory shine but have no experience on 'proper' polishing. So.. Tips please!
Machine or by hand? What products? Anything to avoid? Any must have purchases?
It's basically got the classic jap paint fade, and needs some love. So share the knowledge locostbuilders!
Ta 
|
|
|
|
|
imp paul
|
| posted on 11/4/13 at 08:22 PM |
|
|
this is how a popper body shop does the job after painting we use
Farecla G3 advanced liquid compound fluid
with a power buffer that's it mate also spray with water to keep mop cool 
|
|
|
sdh2903
|
| posted on 11/4/13 at 08:23 PM |
|
|
I would suggest meguiars 105 compound then 205 polish, they really are 2 of the easiest products I've ever used and I've used a few. They
aren't in halfords tho so look online. cleanyourcar.co.uk are very good to deal with. They can be used by hand but by machine will be easier and
with better results, but take care with the compound.
Before all that though a good wash followed by a going over with a clay bar.
Finish it off with a half decent wax and it will look 10x better
|
|
|
Norfolkluegojnr
|
| posted on 11/4/13 at 08:27 PM |
|
|
Thanks for the tips guys.
Any recommendations on a non to expensive polisher? Or am I better to hire a pro one?
|
|
|
daveb83
|
| posted on 11/4/13 at 08:34 PM |
|
|
for a start you need to get yourself over to sites like polished bliss, detailing world and the likes, theres plenty of tutorials etc on them.
When i detail cars i start by snow foaming the car and letting it dwell for 10-15mins
Then rinse off the snow foam.
Up next is the first wash, always use the 2 bucket method, one bucket with clean water and product in it and the second will be dirty water, from
rinsing lambs wool mitt off before going back into the clean water.
After first wash i then tar and bug remove, and i also every now and again use an iron remover as well, the stuff ive got at the moment is called
trix, it makes the car look like its bleeding its a bit trippy and smells like stale piss, brown bleeding is tar being removed and purple is iron
deposits being removed.
Following on from that i rinse the car again and then out comes the clay bars and lube to remove any other surface contamination.
Once all claying has been done i again rinse/quick wash the car .
Then mask up all parts of the car you dont want getting polished like headlights, badges, unpainted bits like roof rails, window seals etc
Now its time for the DA to come out with which ever comination of pads and cutting product work best for you and your vehicle.
When all the DA work has been done you need to seal the paintwork again with a good carnubra wax
Its then time to stand back and admire yourself in the reflection with several well deserved beers
Hope that helps to get you started
|
|
|
sdh2903
|
| posted on 11/4/13 at 08:36 PM |
|
|
Just to say if you use farecla g3 be very very careful, its like liquid sandpaper and imo more suited to finishing new paint where you know how thick
the paint is, I've machine polished over a dozen cars now and still don't like using it.
With regards to polishing machines depends on how much use you will give it, if it's a one off then just get a cheap one. Other than that the
general consensus is that dualaction ones are safer but the rotaries give quicker results. The dual action DAS polishers are very good and not too
pricey. I now have an ep800 rotary polisher from cleanyourcar it was about a hundred quid and has been excellent. It has paid for itself by cleaning
up several cars before sale
|
|
|
.JPG)
