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Author: Subject: Ste's Roadster build
ste

posted on 4/7/13 at 04:08 PM Reply With Quote
Ste's Roadster build

Hi all, Lifted this straight off rhocar so apologies if it isn't 100% perfect

Hello again :hi:

Some of the older members may remember me and my 2b



Sold it nearly four years ago now and since getting married I've been allowed to start my new build.

This time I'm going with a scratch built and doing a Haynes Roadster.

After studying the book for a few weeks and familiarising myself with the chassis plans, reading up on the various forums; locost builders, roadster builders and haynes forum. I took the plunge and ordered the steel for the chassis.

6 lengths of 25x25x1.5mm ERW
3 lengths of 19x19x1.5mm ERW
and three 19x1.5mm ERW tube

Built a build table using 18mm phenolic resin ply (was free)







In the mean time, found a really cheap donor on ebay



More chassis progress pics
























Top tip, don't brush a bare arm past a freshly welded joint


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RichardRichard

posted on 4/7/13 at 06:47 PM Reply With Quote
well done M8, looking good.

My steel is being delivered tomorrow along with my board to construct it on

Looking at it though, has anyone ever built a "wide" version of the Haynes as the cockpit looks a bit narrow for me!

If anyone has done a wide version can you let me know the sizes of the tubes please





Planning to start own Haynes with my 11 year old (his idea!)

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scootz

posted on 4/7/13 at 07:30 PM Reply With Quote
Looking good!

PS - Let's see a pic of that burn in a few days!





It's Evolution Baby!

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ste

posted on 9/7/13 at 03:42 PM Reply With Quote
Been busy on the chassis this last week although to the untrained eye it won't look like much.

Made my suspension brackets. Sixteen of these needed making













Meanwhile, the front hubs had been soaking in Bilt Hammer Deox C and were completely de-rusted.

They were rinsed, de-greased, primed and painted






The next day, jigs were made for aligning the front suspension mounts















Rears done next, no need for jigs just careful, accurate measurements





Transmission tunnel next





Today I made the steering column support





Chassis now fully welded up, alternating sides as fast as possible to stop any heat distortion from the cooling welds. Managed 2mm distortion over the whole frame which is good enough for me seeing as most production cars are lucky to see 4mm!



Chassis looks lost at the back of the garage!


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nick205

posted on 9/7/13 at 04:13 PM Reply With Quote
Good work and a nice sized garage too!






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alex89

posted on 30/7/13 at 09:25 AM Reply With Quote
some news?
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ste

posted on 31/7/13 at 03:55 PM Reply With Quote
Sorry about the delay in updating...

As I plan on making every panel from carbon fibre I started with the steering column shroud.

Started by blanking off the holes then body filler, sanding, high build primer, more sanding, gloss top coat and more flatting.



3

















Not got the pics on my phone of the finished bits but they are now ready to take moulds off.



Fabricated the rear uprights. These will accept the sierra hubs and shafts and rear calipers.














Gearbox was checked over and found to be near perfect inside with no wear so cleaned and painted




Diff was stripped and casing bead blasted. I'll be fitting an LSD in here so stripped it right back and had to make some special tools to get it apart.










Rear hubs were treated in the Deox C bath which stripped them of rust, then washed and primed then painted





Final parts were welded to the chassis minus the engine mounts while I wait for an alloy bellhousing to be made to connect the puma engine to the type 9 box







Meanwhile, I made the jigs for making the suspension wishbones




And also started on the plates to make the engine mounts using a broken 1.7 zetec se engine as a guide









Finally, whole chassis was cleaned, primed and has had it's first top coat


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fesycresy

posted on 31/7/13 at 04:34 PM Reply With Quote
What are you painting the chassis with?





-----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

The sooner you fall behind, the more time you'll have to catch up.

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ste

posted on 31/7/13 at 04:41 PM Reply With Quote
The primer is Plasti-kote Primer Super in black




Top coat is Plasti-kote Satin Super in black




I got them in B&Q and with trade card the primer is £7 a tin and top coat is £4.

Used this stuff on my old car and it's really hard wearing for aerosol. I really like it

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alex89

posted on 31/7/13 at 05:14 PM Reply With Quote
great job!

I had a Puma 1.7S before (125cv), it's a great engine, very strong because this is my mother's property now and it still stock with 320000kms! (200000 miles!)

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ste

posted on 31/7/13 at 05:19 PM Reply With Quote
And very very light too. 35kg lighter than a 2l zetec
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alex89

posted on 31/7/13 at 05:24 PM Reply With Quote
this is an important point too, that's wright.
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ste

posted on 8/8/13 at 04:38 PM Reply With Quote
Been on holiday this weekend just gone so less progress this week.

Fabricated and painted my roll bar. 50mm x 2mm wall seamless tube hoop with a 40mm x 2mm seamless harness bar across it. Into this I welded four threaded inserts for the harnesses.








Primed then painted with Plasti-kote gloss black. This stuff leaves a finish like powder coating.










Diff brackets welded up and painted as above but in satin black










Made the inserts for the suspension bushes. These are seamless stainless steel. 22 of them made then polished up.







Poly bushes inserted into the lower wishbones, then they were packed away till final assembly.










Custom alloy bell housing arrived so mated the trial engine and box




Then fitted it into the chassis to make the engine and gearbox mounts

















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ste

posted on 9/8/13 at 04:37 PM Reply With Quote
Engine mounts today.

3mm steel plate and 50x2mm cds tube.

Mounts are Landrover Defender engine mounts £4.50 each. Bargain!
























All now painted. That's the chassis complete now. Next on the list of jobs is making a fuel tank and running fuel and brake lines etc.

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big_wasa

posted on 9/8/13 at 05:55 PM Reply With Quote
Some nice work.
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ste

posted on 12/8/13 at 02:06 AM Reply With Quote
Mounts were primed and painted the other day so tonight I re-fitted the dummy engine and started a mock up super charger inlet plenum.

It uses half of the standard puma inlet with the threads drilled out and captive nuts inside the planum.

Bare in mind, this is a mockup to see how it fits so it is rough.

The finished item will be aluminium and have short trumpets on the inlets.





















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ste

posted on 12/8/13 at 02:07 AM Reply With Quote
quote:
Originally posted by big_wasa
Some nice work.


Thanks

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daveb666

posted on 12/8/13 at 06:58 AM Reply With Quote
Flying through it.good effort mate, ignore the tools on CS as we'll lol
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Proby

posted on 12/8/13 at 07:03 AM Reply With Quote
Excellent work, interesting read too! Keep it up.





Visit GraphicMonster

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ste

posted on 12/8/13 at 10:35 AM Reply With Quote
quote:
Originally posted by daveb666
Flying through it.good effort mate, ignore the tools on CS as we'll lol


huh?

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ste

posted on 9/12/13 at 02:59 PM Reply With Quote
Not been on it for ages or when I have I've not took pics.

Recently I've modified the steering column lower bearing to take a proper ball bearing as the standard Ford plastic one is causing no end of issues for IVA for lots of people.

This was a simple enough job








I've decided against the Ford 1.7 engine that was in there as there was too many issues converting it to a reliable RWD engine.

Instead, I'm probably going down the MX5 engine and gearbox route.

Started making the mounts for the radiator. It's a rad from a 1.2 Clio.










Not finished it yet as I wasn't happy with the welding quality on the thin steel tubes for the mounts so I'm scrapping them and starting over.

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ste

posted on 21/3/14 at 01:18 AM Reply With Quote
Finally got round to re-starting work on the car after moving house and re-setting up my garage.

Made new rear wishbones and top camber adjusters then used my new compressor box to make a mini spray booth.

They were then fitted with the bushes and stored away.












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ste

posted on 28/3/14 at 10:36 PM Reply With Quote
Started stripping down the MX5 engine and cleaning and painting the parts.

Started with the cam cover

VHT wrinkle finish. Baked at 95C for an hour.










Ordered the bolts for the suspension so mocked up the rear wishbones and fitted my camber guage to see how it adjusts. quite happy with it.



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ste

posted on 14/5/14 at 03:30 AM Reply With Quote
Not updated in ages because I'm a lazy bastard, but here's some pics


















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ste

posted on 14/5/14 at 04:23 AM Reply With Quote
So got the pedal box finished and painted. It is designed to take a Wilwood m/c for the clutch and the original mx5 brake m/c



I reached the big milestone of mounting the engine and gearbox.

















Only problem so far is the alternator is right in the way of the steering shaft. My only real solution is to route the shaft under the alternator. Did think about swapping alternator to other side, but wanted the space round there for a turbo in the future.

So fabricated a bracket and mounted a bearing carrier the end result is solid.




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