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Author: Subject: Dry sump scavenge pump leaking
parkiboy

posted on 9/7/13 at 07:52 PM Reply With Quote
Dry sump scavenge pump leaking

Hi, I had a dry sump fitted last autumn by day tuner, I have only done 500miles max since and it has started leaking, it was not a brand new system so don't think I will have any comeback although it was supplied by them. It is leaking in between the main casing of the scavange pump and the plate on the side of the main casning by the looks of it. I have tried tightening it and it hasn't made a difference and I don't want to over tighten it. There does not appear to be a gasket in between, should there be? Is it repairable or will I need a new unit do you think?

Here's a photo to try show the main casing and side plate where it is leaking



Thanks

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daniel mason

posted on 9/7/13 at 08:04 PM Reply With Quote
what make is that ds setup?






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parkiboy

posted on 9/7/13 at 08:17 PM Reply With Quote
I'm not sure to be honest, the tank is a sbd as I bought that new but don't know about the sump pan and scavenge pump.

Trying to get all the little bits sorted, on about trying to get a swap for a CEC, i may regret it because it is heaps of fun, i love the noise the sequential shifting everything about it but I should have never bought a BEC, I want something a bit more docile with a wet weather kit for touring round Europe.

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daniel mason

posted on 9/7/13 at 08:34 PM Reply With Quote
in that case youd be better selling the car and buying a built westy or similar! its the only way to make financial sense as an engine swap will cost mega monmy!
engine
gearbox
bellhousing
diff ratio
propshaft
engine mounts
exhaust
electrics
mapping
etc etc etc! not cheap






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parkiboy

posted on 9/7/13 at 08:36 PM Reply With Quote
I mean a car swap not an engine swap :-)

I know they get bad press but ideally I would like another MK I live local and have always got a good service from them!

[Edited on 9/7/13 by parkiboy]

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noc231073

posted on 9/7/13 at 09:32 PM Reply With Quote
dry sump

from looking at the photos it look like they have plumbed your dry sump with standard hydraulic hosing .. thats a big no no especially on a bec where you have a lot of vibration from high revs ....the hoses are too ridgid and can crack the pump.. hence your leak.....hope i am wrong but it loloks likely ...
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parkiboy

posted on 10/7/13 at 01:51 AM Reply With Quote
quote:
Originally posted by noc231073
from looking at the photos it look like they have plumbed your dry sump with standard hydraulic hosing .. thats a big no no especially on a bec where you have a lot of vibration from high revs ....the hoses are too ridgid and can crack the pump.. hence your leak.....hope i am wrong but it loloks likely ...


What sort of hosing should be used? I'll check it out tomorrow and see what they have used, I know 1 is braided, other 2 are rubber whether its hydraulic hosing or not I can't say off the top of my head. What that really cause this problem in 300 miles though? Is the pump going to be knackered or repairable?

Thanks

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Custardpants

posted on 10/7/13 at 07:50 AM Reply With Quote
It looks like the SBD unit (which I also use). Is it visibly leaking or just leaving traces of oil on the undertray? All the hoses should be aeroquip with braided fittings for reliability - there is no point using shoddy hosing on a component fitted to increase reliability. You could probably pull the pump and take a look at it / send it off to SBD(I'd also give them a call anyway about it)
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parkiboy

posted on 10/7/13 at 08:54 AM Reply With Quote
It is visually leaking, The fittings weren't cheap but by the looks of it it is hydraulic hosing, Damien said he always uses this hosing for his dry sump installs! Is this not correct? It would suprise me as day tuner came highly recommended
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parkiboy

posted on 10/7/13 at 11:08 AM Reply With Quote
Just spoke to SBD he said it just needs the side plate taking of and put back on with some high quality silicon.

He also said there is nothing wrong with using hydraulic hosing providing you use swept fittings and no restrictive angles which I believe mine are

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motorcycle_mayhem

posted on 10/7/13 at 11:33 AM Reply With Quote
Yes, the side cover can be sealed with silicon. I use the expensive Loctite stuff (5699) on this and other such joints. It's no good for sealing con-rod holes in blocks though..

There really is no problem, as SBD say, using the hose you have. Westfield use what you have (as standard) on their dry sump Busa system. When things get hot the hose tends to fall into shape perfectly, it's then a stress-freee unique fit for that job.

Your sump will be either SBD or Nova. SBD tend to engrave and/or machine 'SBD' on everything so in the absence of that (?) it's probably of Nova origin. Difficult to spot any differences...


Anyway, sound like your needs would be better met with a car engined car, from what you say. As has been said, don't convert. Sell the car to someone that wants all that a BEC can (and can't) offer, allowing you to shop around for something with a more user-friendly Westfieldy bias (including decent weather equipment).

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parkiboy

posted on 10/7/13 at 12:20 PM Reply With Quote
quote:
Originally posted by motorcycle_mayhem
Yes, the side cover can be sealed with silicon. I use the expensive Loctite stuff (5699) on this and other such joints. It's no good for sealing con-rod holes in blocks though..

There really is no problem, as SBD say, using the hose you have. Westfield use what you have (as standard) on their dry sump Busa system. When things get hot the hose tends to fall into shape perfectly, it's then a stress-freee unique fit for that job.

Your sump will be either SBD or Nova. SBD tend to engrave and/or machine 'SBD' on everything so in the absence of that (?) it's probably of Nova origin. Difficult to spot any differences...


Anyway, sound like your needs would be better met with a car engined car, from what you say. As has been said, don't convert. Sell the car to someone that wants all that a BEC can (and can't) offer, allowing you to shop around for something with a more user-friendly Westfieldy bias (including decent weather equipment).


Can it be taken apart and sealed without draining the oil? It only leaks when the engine is running which suggests to me it is not full of oil when the engine is off? It only had an oil change a couple hundred miles ago, be a shame to do it again already.

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