thought I would post a few pictures of my new sequential gearbox. Took my car to Spa earlier in the summer and couldn't get out of 4th gear on
the Kemel straight!! (currently running a standard ford type 9 gearbox.) When I got back I managed to source a secondhand sequential box with new
internals at a very reasonable price. The advantanges will be less weight, faster changes, and the fact that I have been able to tailor the ratios.
The new box is an Elite IL200 - 5 speed sequential, with reverse. My box is I think a very early development box, hence the billet aluminium maincase.
The box and current shift mechanism weigh in at 23.6 kg dry (only takes 1 litre of oil).
As I'm going to all the bother of taking the engine and box out I thought I may as well go to town on the rest of the driveline, so purchased
a billet flywheel with integral ring gear from Turbosport and a 7.25" clutch assembly from Mardi Gras motorsport. It will be interesting to see
how this changes the character of the engine (currently standard flywheel, 4 paddle clutch standard diameter, ~185 bhp). My use of the car is 70%
track, 30% road.
flywheel 2471 g
4 paddle sprung centre friction plate 1112 g
complete clutch cover assembly including bolts 2424 g
The box will fit straight to my bellhousing at the front end so that is all good, however the back end of the box is totally different to a Type 9 as
you can see here: Description
the box is shorter, and needs a flange mount to the front of the prop as well as the rear. First question: Can anyone suggest any companies where I
can either get my current prop modified or a custom prop made?
Second question: is anyone on here running a carbon prop? I know quite a few people on blatchat are running them on Caterhams now. I'd be
interested as it reduces inertia and in failure is a bit safer than a steel shaft!!
I'm probably going to have to go down the route of getting the engine out, then refit with a dummy block and sequential box, in order to get all
the measurements required
agreed, I'll see how I get on. The good thing about the Elite is the pair of drop gears are separate from the main cassette so you can swap them
relatively easily or even just reverse them! (swapping the 26/24 I have around would put me back to 151.9 mph though!)
quote:Originally posted by Pat_T
agreed, I'll see how I get on. The good thing about the Elite is the pair of drop gears are separate from the main cassette so you can swap them
relatively easily or even just reverse them! (swapping the 26/24 I have around would put me back to 151.9 mph though!)
i think that would be better for larger circuits and road use, small sprint and hilclimbs then 130mph would be better is it an easy job to change them
round?
apologies for the lack of updates, however I have been busy getting the engine out and getting everything together required to swap the box in.
Due to the box being extremely short I have had to custom make a propshaft, and decide to go Carbon Fibre for a number of reasons.
I have seen quite a few propshaft failure threads on Blatchat and in race Caterhams, and when a steel prop lets go it makes a hell of a mess not only
of the centre of your car but potentially of you and your passenger's legs.
With a carbon prop, if something goes wrong they generally shatter or broom, and don't have the energy to exit the transmission tunnel.
didn't fancy paying £1200 for a CTG torqline one so have elected to design and make my own, using a factory RX8 prop (carbon from OEM) as a base
(I am an Automotive Powertrain design engineer by trade). Due to the diameter, and the need to flanges on both ends, the prop has to be fitted to the
rear diff before the engine and box can go back in. I hope to have this done within the next 4 weeks.
measuring up for bonding the new prop ends: Description
The way I see it is I have nothing to lose. This is all a bit experimental but if it doesn't work and fails, I will just have a custom steel
prop made up instead
If it does work I am on for a 30% weight saving on the prop, despite it being longer. And potentially there are some benefits of running an OEM part
where Mazda will have tuned the torsional stiffness of the shaft. Not something we normally bother with in kit cars, but could help to reduce
driveline shunting - in 1st gear especially.
Its the only thing i am missing on my XE install but cant come to terms with spending the extra just yet.
Was this the one on Westfield Owners site a couple of weeks back?
Also are you having to extend the remote change at all as i can see you are using a 5" extension on your type 9 and i was concerned about buying
one of these boxes just for that reason?
Nope, got this from Dermot Healy on uphill racers back in July (about a week after I got back from Spa and decided I couldn't live with the Type
9 ratios anymore!!). I won't tell you how much I paid for it, as I think I got a steal and you might hate me. I did have to buy a brand new more
suitable set of drop gears direct from Elite though...
Yes the gear linkage will have to be totally custom, I have now chopped off the arms you can see here: Description
and I will be bolting or welding the sprung lever mechanism directly to the transmission tunnel, further back in the cockpit (even with the 5"
extension the Type 9 lever was a bit far forward for me). Then I will fabricate a custom linage between the lever and the box.
The other problem you are faced with on these boxes is they have a plunger for selecting neutral/reverse. I am going to use a cable puller to activate
this, maybe with a lift-collar on the stick if I get fancy with it!
I have just weighted the two boxes:
Type 9 - stripped of linkage but full of oil: 32.8 kg
Elite IL200 - no linkage, full of oil: 21.65 kg
If my calcs are correct this will put me somewhere around 536 kg once the car is back together! Which is pretty good for a caged CEC!
Nope, got this from Dermot Healy on uphill racers back in July (about a week after I got back from Spa and decided I couldn't live with the Type
9 ratios anymore!!). I won't tell you how much I paid for it, as I think I got a steal and you might hate me. I did have to buy a brand new more
suitable set of drop gears direct from Elite though...
Yes the gear linkage will have to be totally custom, I have now chopped off the arms you can see here: Description
and I will be bolting or welding the sprung lever mechanism directly to the transmission tunnel, further back in the cockpit (even with the 5"
extension the Type 9 lever was a bit far forward for me). Then I will fabricate a custom linage between the lever and the box.
The other problem you are faced with on these boxes is they have a plunger for selecting neutral/reverse. I am going to use a cable puller to activate
this, maybe with a lift-collar on the stick if I get fancy with it!
I have just weighted the two boxes:
Type 9 - stripped of linkage but full of oil: 32.8 kg
Elite IL200 - no linkage, full of oil: 21.65 kg
If my calcs are correct this will put me somewhere around 536 kg once the car is back together! Which is pretty good for a caged CEC!
Thanks for the pic Pat, it actually looks really easy now ive seen it. I may invest when ive got more spare cash next year now.
Good luck with the install, it will certainly make for a quicker car on track.
quote:Originally posted by Pat_T
If my calcs are correct this will put me somewhere around 536 kg once the car is back together! Which is pretty good for a caged CEC!
Yeah
yeah yeah, alright don't rub it in... that's probably with you in it too! lol
Engine, gearbox and propshaft are now back in, and happily everything is lining up and free to rotate!!
I did decide to solid mount the gearbox in the end, we'll see how the mounts get on. Did it in such a manner that if I do need to add some
rubber/poly bushes in the future I can do it without having to take everything back off.
Most recent progress has been fabricating a gear linkage and reverse mechanism:
Description
linkage bar made from 12mm carbon fibre tube with two M8 rod ends bonded in. Lever mech set back in the tunnel and slightly to the passenger side so
that shift knob falls close to steering wheel, without getting in the way when winding on lock
Description
I have had to cut hole through bracket which supports the dash for linkage bar. Will also have to cut a hole in the new transmission tunnel top panel
(will be carbon fibre but not ordered material yet...)
Description
shifter arm.
(also shows gearbox breather - any suggestions on what I put on this spigot? a small length of hose open to atmosphere?)
I've also finished fabricating a reverse/neutral puller which seems to work well. But forgot to take any photos this time! d'oh
I'm waiting on a few parts before I can run the engine up and run through the gears on stands to check everything functions as it should. Watch
this space...
Bleeding up the new clutch and the slave cylinder over-traveled and popped out, resulting in a large puddle of brake fluid and a lot of swearing.
Engine & box now have to come back out, and brand new SAAB 900 clutch mech required.
Cause is most likely that the new flywheel//clutch combo were slightly thinner than standard. This time some more precise measurement and spacer
required behind clutch mech, won't make that mistake again!
Just got to remember it should be worth the ball-ache once complete!
quote:Originally posted by Pat_T
Engine, gearbox and propshaft are now back in, and happily everything is lining up and free to rotate!!
I did decide to solid mount the gearbox in the end, we'll see how the mounts get on. Did it in such a manner that if I do need to add some
rubber/poly bushes in the future I can do it without having to take everything back off.
Presumably the engine is solid mounted as well then?
Photo Archive
Building: A wish list bigger than my bank account.
posted on 8/11/13 at 08:06 AM
I would very much doubt that it is a good idea to solid mount the gearbox if the engine is on flexible mounts (albeit very stiff ones) I think
it's asking for a cracked gearbox casing.
The ratios were spot on for track use! Here's a 1:57 of Donington GP on my first go with it (my first time at Doni too)
Also the solid mounting of box to chassis was absolutely fine, even on the road. I couldn't really detect a difference in vibration.
I've sold the car now and moved on to a project with an even sillier power to weight ratio!! http://s1elige.blogspot.co.uk/
...it's a couple of months from completion still..
Look sand sounds great Pat. Must admit the gears still seem quite long listening to your changes so with my 3.92 it may be just what i wanted.
I'm more fearful of revving the tits off it in top on the long straights, i reckon 135mph would be good which is quite close to where i'll
be with an 8250rpm limit.
Thanks for coming back to me on this and best of luck with the loony Exige
so purchased
a billet flywheel with integral ring gear from Turbosport and a 7.25" clutch assembly from Mardi Gras motorsport. It will be interesting to see
how this changes the character of the engine (currently standard flywheel, 4 paddle clutch standard diameter, ~185 bhp). My use of the car is 70%
track, 30% road. 
