prawnabie
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| posted on 4/2/14 at 12:22 PM |
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POR15 on uprights
Hi all,
Having stripped my Mazda donor, I am about to start recoditioning the parts i need. I am going to paint the uprights/Diff casing in POR15.
Having looked at the process, it looks like i need the following...
Marine clean degreaser
Metal ready/prep
POR15 anti rust paint
POR15 chassis coat (as UV stable top coat).
Can anyone confirm this is correct, and do you have any tips for using the stuff!
Thanks
Shaun
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Scuzzle
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| posted on 4/2/14 at 12:43 PM |
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I'd like to know how to use this stuff properly as well, I bought a tin of brush on silver POR15 and try as I might I could not get the finish
to look anything but streaky.
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deezee
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| posted on 4/2/14 at 01:01 PM |
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I just painted POR 15 straight onto my parts and 5 years later, its still there. I cleaned them etc before painting, but didn't bother with the
POR prep products. I used chassis black on some parts, but its not even slightly "Super tough" and didn't use the chassis black on
much stuff after that.
Only advice I can give you is not to buy a big tin of rust preventative paint. This stuff is serious and will bond the lid to the tin if you get any
paint on there. So make sure its all clean before putting the lid back on.
I think for a kit car, that does low milage, gets kept in a garage and only used in good weather, doesn't need loads of treating.
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Smoking Frog
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| posted on 4/2/14 at 02:59 PM |
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Yes, that's correct. If I remember right the second coat has to be applied within 24hrs. Once the tin is opened it can pick up the moisture in
the air which triggers the curing cycle. Best to decant into a smaller container and sealed the tin as soon as possible. The POR15 anti rust paint
bushes can be cleaned in soapy water if your're quick. Easy to apply by brush goes on like thick ink at the right temperature. Leaves a great
finish but hard to see where you've been when applying more coats.
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rodgling
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| posted on 4/2/14 at 03:08 PM |
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Protip: don't get the degreaser in your eye, or you will get a chemical burn on your cornea and a trip to hospital. Guess how I know...
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theprisioner
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| posted on 4/2/14 at 03:55 PM |
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I had the whole chassis sand blasted, etch primed in black then two coats of the two pack hardnose version. It looks fabulous and I am most impress
with it. far better than powder coating.
http://sylvabuild.blogspot.co.uk/2012/08/chassis-progress.html
http://sylvabuild.blogspot.com/
http://austin7special.blogspot.co.uk/
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prawnabie
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| posted on 4/2/14 at 04:50 PM |
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Thanks for the info guys.
Im looking to paint the calipers aswell - I take it I can give them the same treatment or is there anything better for them?
Thanks again
Shaun
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rodgling
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| posted on 4/2/14 at 04:58 PM |
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I've used it (in black) on calipers - it worked OK, I think you do need the top-coat though as the main stuff does fade a little with time.
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CosKev3
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| posted on 4/2/14 at 06:41 PM |
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Rust Bullet is my favourite paint,expensive but the best stuff I've ever used.
I have seen POR15 let rust through it within 12 months on a road going cars sills.
Done quite alot of de-rusting/painting car parts/undersides over the years,see my archive 
On the calipers I would strip them down,shot blast them then soak them in Bilt Hamber Deox-C,this is a water based de-rusting solution.Totally
de-rusts including cast metals,which shot blasting alone does not do due to the porous surface.
After de-rusting I use a light acid cleaning solution from Rust Bullet,called Metal Blast.
It de-rusts and lightly etches ready for painting.
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