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Author: Subject: "How to" OEM Focus ST170 ecu with Pats info.
FamilyGuy

posted on 25/7/18 at 09:52 PM Reply With Quote
quote:
Originally posted by big_wasa
No pin 7.

This is my test rig and I’ve used this to program the ecu and all sorts.

You are correct, the clutch switch is normally open so you can just remove the pin.

The power steering switch is the one normally closed so is the one to earth.




Hmm, I seem to have fewer wires connected than you, but my OBD port is as it was in the focus. I had all wires below connected with the exception of pin 7


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big_wasa

posted on 26/7/18 at 05:17 AM Reply With Quote
St170 has two more wires than the base model as it has canbus.

They also may use different pins for different modules ie pin 7 is the K line and according to the ford diagrams may be used for the telemetrix.

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Pigsy

posted on 26/7/18 at 07:58 AM Reply With Quote
Hi. Where did you find your ford diagram?
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big_wasa

posted on 26/7/18 at 11:37 AM Reply With Quote
Somebody posted them on this link.
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Pigsy

posted on 26/7/18 at 06:31 PM Reply With Quote
Big_Wasa, the image supplied for connecting the led to ecu, has the ecu as a 6MYD (Focus Rs mk1), using pins 53, 19 and 42. It also has the aerial connectors 1-4.

Is it the same way of connecting as with the 3NFA for the ST170? It also has the aerial connectors 1-4, so would these be the same?

Im starting again with the newer ecu, key and aerial, that should arrive tomorrow. I'm also checking for any mistakes as I reconnect.

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big_wasa

posted on 26/7/18 at 07:05 PM Reply With Quote
Yeh it’s the same.
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FamilyGuy

posted on 26/7/18 at 09:13 PM Reply With Quote
quote:
Originally posted by big_wasa
St170 has two more wires than the base model as it has canbus.

They also may use different pins for different modules ie pin 7 is the K line and according to the ford diagrams may be used for the telemetrix.


Looks like I'm missing pins 6 and 14. Wondering how it ever worked in the focus as I haven't removed any wires when I took it out the car. Need to find an extra pin for the missing wires now

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big_wasa

posted on 27/7/18 at 05:21 AM Reply With Quote
They are the can bus pins. You're obd2 should still communicate on the other data platform.
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Pigsy

posted on 30/7/18 at 06:22 PM Reply With Quote
"How to" OEM Focus ST170 ecu with Pats info.

Hi. I have at last got the led to flash correctly, then disappear when the relay to the switched items is powered up. It is a great feeling. The problem has been that the key was not matched to the ecu. It is now the third one that I have tried and it has brought success.

I have subsequently wired up the various component sensors needed like fuel injection, the fuel pump which is priming nicely, the cam and crank sensors, tps, imrc, and many others and the led is is still fine.

My problem is that I have no spark. I have 12v to the 3 pin plug on the coil, apart from that, can you think of what the likely cause is? All suggestions will be helpful.
Pigsy

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FamilyGuy

posted on 30/7/18 at 08:35 PM Reply With Quote
Might sound obvious but have you got the engine block earthed?

Only thing I can think of if all wires to coil and other sensors are properly wired up.

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Pigsy

posted on 30/7/18 at 09:52 PM Reply With Quote
Very well earthed in two places and across the gearbox as well. I will double check the wires to the coil as well. Thanks for replying.
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Pigsy

posted on 30/7/18 at 09:57 PM Reply With Quote
Im setting up forscan with a switched elm 327 obd2 reader via laptop. It may say what is wrong.
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big_wasa

posted on 31/7/18 at 07:39 AM Reply With Quote
The ecu will only fire the plugs if it knows the engine is cranking.
More important than a code, look at live data to show the ecu is seeing the sensor. Ie your looking for an rpm signal.

This plug is polarity sensitive check its wiring is the correct way around. All st170's where manual gearboxes but is there any possibility the crank sensor housing has been swapped for an automatic ?

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Pigsy

posted on 31/7/18 at 10:23 AM Reply With Quote
I swapped the sensor to the front with a missing tooth setup. I will check it’s polarity.
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big_wasa

posted on 31/7/18 at 10:51 AM Reply With Quote
Sounds like this will be your problem. Chances are its to far away, to near and its damaged.
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Pigsy

posted on 31/7/18 at 02:26 PM Reply With Quote
The three wires to the coil are two earths and a centre power supply. Anyone know it’s voltage please? Is the coil wired to the ecu or ignition switch?

From what I have read, it is either 5v or 12v or wait for it: actually both 5v and 12v at the same time, which it cannot be!

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FamilyGuy

posted on 31/7/18 at 03:53 PM Reply With Quote
It's a 12v supply. I have mine connected to the power relay output. If you are not using a power relay it would connect straight to ignition switch or whatever switch you were using to power the engine up.
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daviep

posted on 31/7/18 at 05:16 PM Reply With Quote
quote:
Originally posted by Pigsy
The three wires to the coil are two earths and a centre power supply. Anyone know it’s voltage please? Is the coil wired to the ecu or ignition switch?

From what I have read, it is either 5v or 12v or wait for it: actually both 5v and 12v at the same time, which it cannot be!


Not familiar with your particular setup but normally the coil is supplied with positive and the ecu switches the negative side of each coil. When the current stops flowing the electromagnetic field in the generated by the primary coils collapses and induces a voltage on the secondary winding causing a spark. If you don't have the negatives wired to the ecu you won't get a spark.

Or that's how I understand it works.

Cheers
Davie





“A truly great library contains something in it to offend everyone.”

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Pigsy

posted on 31/7/18 at 08:49 PM Reply With Quote
you guys are so helpful. Thanks for that.
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Pigsy

posted on 8/8/18 at 10:00 PM Reply With Quote
I actually got it going today!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
This is a very large thanks to all who helped me to do so.

I have discovered that the intake valves are not sealing. Piston 3 just exhaling everything out of the gsxr750 no3 inlet. Nightmare. Anyone know of any problems associated with the 2002 st170 head that would cause this?

Thanks again........

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rusty nuts

posted on 9/8/18 at 07:01 AM Reply With Quote
If the valves are not sealing there are a few possibilities, burnt valves/seats , damaged cylinder head ,, bent valves , sticking valves, , valve being held open due to incorrect valve clearances, valve seat recession (unlikely) or as I had a few years ago a floating valve guide again unlikely. Incorrect valve timing I would expect to affect all cylinders. I would start by checking the valve clearances especially if the cams have been out . An exhaust valve not opening can cause spitting back through the inlet but I haven't come across that for many years.
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Pigsy

posted on 9/8/18 at 10:41 PM Reply With Quote
2 bent inlet valves. :-(
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rusty nuts

posted on 10/8/18 at 07:05 AM Reply With Quote
I would remove all valves , clean ,check seats and if needed relap before reassembly . Don't forget to check and adjust the valve clearances . Wonder why only two bent valves ?
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FamilyGuy

posted on 10/8/18 at 03:22 PM Reply With Quote
Glad you got it started, must have been a relief. Shame you've unearthed another problem.

[Edited on 10/8/18 by FamilyGuy]

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Pigsy

posted on 11/8/18 at 12:24 AM Reply With Quote
It’s not pleasant, but then it’s ok. Mighty relieved it ran at all. Thanks for your needed help.

I don’t know if anyone has had this but without a car reg or vin number, motor factors are useless! I had the Alda engine head and block numbers but even though they saw them on the screen, would not sell the valves to me.

I just looked up a 2002 focus st170 for sale on eBay and used it’s registration number. Worked a treat. None in stock. I will get them tomorrow morning. Guess what I’m up to tomorrow?

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