Is the tacho adjustable for cylinder count ? Due to the wasted spark system of the Ford you have to adjust the cylinder count to compensate.
Pre CAN ecu’s had a dedicated tacho out put that I used, but for my new install I am looking at a full can dash with all data coming from the Ecu.
So having swerved your question, you will have to try it and see as I havnt done it. But please let us know in case I change my mind and go the Etb
telemetrix again as I did love the classic look.
Not adjustable for cylinder count. There are devices out there to do it as well as circuit diagrams to make one, all driven by the coil. watch this
space.
Hi. My build starts easily BUT runs very poorly and backfires. I have traced all the wires and see no mistakes. Obd2 reader tells me that the o2
sensors have a fault. They are brand new and the wiring is correct. It says the same for the maf sensor. It is also brand new. I noticed that the
earth had become dislodged and so reconnected it. It then would not start. I had to disconnect it again. Is there a trick method for doing away with
it? It was idling way too fast but is ok now. When I open the Suzuki gsxr750 throttle itb’s it wants to stall. Has anyone any suggestions to overcome
these problems.
I’m close to removing the itb’s and refitting the standard inlet system with its sensors etc as this is proving to be very difficult to do not to
mention time consuming. I would rather not as they add horses and sound great. Has anyone seen a blog on an st170 with bike carbs and original ecm/ecu
please?
No the Acwell will need its own matched sensor. If its a single wire sensor you will need to work out a way of earthing it if you screw it into a
plastic housing.
Just gone to test my wiring set up tonight and get jonflashing led wondering if I have missed a power or a ground have you a list of pins that need to
be grounded and powered
So you should have
five earth wires from the ecu.
One permanent 12v live for the memory.
Two switched lives that go hot with the ignition on.
One wire from the ecu to the earth of the led. Plus perm live.
Two wires from the ecu to the tranciever. Plus power and earth.
The led should be a standard non flashing led ( common mistake to fit a flashing one ) it will need a suitably sized resister ( size depends on colour
and other things ).
Make sure the permanent live is first before switching the ignition on ie not all three at once.
In this state it should flash once every couple of seconds.
When the ignition is switched on and the key is in range of the tranciever the led will light solid for two to three seconds before going out. The
code is accepted and the engine will start.
With the key out of range it wi flash like the clappers. This is a fault code.
I've got my engine running nicely but can't for the life of me get the obd to work. I have wired it as per your diagram but still nothing.
Any ideas what could be wrong?
I've got the wires twisted and tried it with and without the CAN wires with no joy. I might try a USB reader instead of the cheap bluetooth one,
only thing I can think of.
I bought a wifi obd reader off Ebay after reading about problems with the bluetooth ones.....and still no use.
Fortunately my neighbour mentioned that he had a diagnostic reader. Plugged it in and it worked a treat. It did find a couple of error codes, one with
the MAF and one with O2 sensor circuit. I'll need to look into these over the weekend.
