proretro
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| posted on 25/1/15 at 05:05 PM |
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mid corner lockup =
mid corner lockup = me smashing my front left wheel into the kerb, chewed up the alloy pretty good but that easily replaced\referred. However
it's the geometry that's not 100% right. First of all its wen driving straight the steering wheel is about 30 degrees to the right (but it
does not feel like its pulling to every side when driving in a straight line)
after getting the car back into the garage last night, i checked the whish bones and coilovers from damage, at first glances damage is not so
obvious, no fractures to welding , no splitting to the metal but the top mounting point for the damper has moved back slightly
i can't tell how much damage has truly been caused, but as we all no, if your out by a mm or two might as well be out by a mile  so.... ????
Is there any text book way to check this or thinking to book it in at pro comp?
thanks Scott
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adithorp
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| posted on 25/1/15 at 05:16 PM |
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Wheel not straight is a classic sign of something having bent/moved; Wouldn't need to be much.
Most likely is the track rod or TR-end but could be the rack itself or it's mounting or the wishbones or brackets... or a combination. If a
visual check doesn't show something obvious then an alignment check will be needed (ultimately it'll need doing anyway).
"A witty saying proves nothing" Voltaire
http://jpsc.org.uk/forum/
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proretro
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| posted on 25/1/15 at 05:48 PM |
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Thanks
so ill take it for an alignment check at my local garage asap, but if it is lets say the mounting from the wishbone, is it a case of taking the nose
cone of and rewarding?
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adithorp
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| posted on 25/1/15 at 06:51 PM |
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You probably need the nose off just to give it a thorough visual check.
"A witty saying proves nothing" Voltaire
http://jpsc.org.uk/forum/
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proretro
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| posted on 25/1/15 at 07:23 PM |
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Is this something that procomp could rectify???
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AdrianH
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| posted on 25/1/15 at 07:43 PM |
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Not sure on your mnr, but when I did a similar thing on my Haynes, it took me a while to find where my steering error was, but when I did find it, it
was obvious.
So here goes, check the brackets that the steering rack is mounted to, check if you have bent the bracket up or down at one side, i.e the side your
went into the curb with.
If so could be quite simple to remove steering rack, bend flat and reinforce with some more metal strip.
Adrian
[Edited on 25-1-15 by AdrianH]
Why do I have to make the tools to finish the job? More time then money.
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proretro
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| posted on 25/1/15 at 09:35 PM |
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Tanks Adrian, i would of over looked the steering rack brackets so that going on the check list
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coozer
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| posted on 25/1/15 at 09:43 PM |
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When I hit the kerb in my MNR it bent the bottom wishbone.
1972 V8 Jago
1980 Z750
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proretro
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| posted on 25/1/15 at 10:21 PM |
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Is your MNR an outboard as well, How bad was it bent and was there any more damage?
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coozer
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| posted on 25/1/15 at 10:30 PM |
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Yes, outboard dampers, the wishbone was like a banana. I ran over a mid island and it burst both the front and rear tyres and smashed the wheels!
Needed new wheels and tyres and a pair or bottom wishbones.
1972 V8 Jago
1980 Z750
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gremlin1234
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| posted on 25/1/15 at 10:41 PM |
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quote:
when driving straight the steering wheel is about 30 degrees to the right (but it does not feel like its pulling to every side when driving in
a straight line)
most likely the steering rack has been pushed across about 8mm (plus the damage to tyre/wheel/wishbones etc)
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bigfoot4616
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| posted on 26/1/15 at 10:15 AM |
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not saying it wont have moved the rack but shouldn't something else give first? when i put my striker into the tyre barrier at cadwell last
october the steering arm on the upright bent(along with the wishbone). luckily mine are RS2000 uprights with bolt on arms so was an easy fix.
if the rack has moved maybe the rack mounts aren't strong enough? other parts are to strong? i know on certain race cars they have a weak point
in the track rod so that bends before other damage can be done.
as you're going to need it aligning anyway i would just take it to procomp as it is, they should be able to sort it no problem and you will
benefit from them setting it up afterwards. i take it your not to far from them anyway.
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proretro
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| posted on 26/1/15 at 12:59 PM |
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Correct, procomp isn't to far, about 30 to 40 min and was going to take it there anyway (badly set up anyway)
but i should mention the steering wheel has not move across but rotated.
and yes, i would say something else would give first?
I'm going to try and upload sum pictures wen i get back tonight
tanks lad's 
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bigfoot4616
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| posted on 27/1/15 at 06:01 PM |
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wish i was that close to them. they did a really good job of setting mine up last time but as so much has changed on the car it really needs doing
again.
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proretro
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| posted on 27/1/15 at 07:04 PM |
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I've Seen a few threads on hear saying what a difference a good setup is, and even before this it was pretty bad. I had no confidence to push it
hard, its Got it all.... Bump steer , bit of under steer, squirming alot under breaking and at speed the front moves around alot .
i was going to get it on the dyno at PDQ but i think the time and money is better spent at procomp
would you agree??
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perksy
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| posted on 27/1/15 at 07:24 PM |
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Getting a good set up is the best money you will ever spend, There's no point in anybody spending loads of money on upgrades to make the car
faster if it won't handle properly or go where you point it.....
Take it to Procomp, the lads there will work wonders and it will be so much nicer to drive 
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proretro
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| posted on 27/1/15 at 09:02 PM |
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I guess thats what our cars are all about, power to weight and ultimate handling and yes, i find myself asking whats the point having the power
without the handling
ill be giving Matt and Ivan a call and hopefully get myself booked in 
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