02GF74
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| posted on 8/2/15 at 09:51 AM |
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volvo 850 - bad ignition leads?
Less than one year ago replaced ingnition parts from coik onwards. All volvo oem parts except leads that were from allparts.
Now on 4 ocassions in maybe 3 months car recused to start.
It happens on my drive after coming home, engine warmed up and i stop engine to open garage door.
Trying to start, maybe it fires and runs rough for 2 secs then dies and wont start.
To diagnose for a spark, i pulled off the lead from coil at distrkbutor, found i cannot fit a plug then refit and engine starts.
Did the same last night and the same. Seems just reconnecting lead to centre of distributor fixes it.
So it does seem the after market leads are dodge.
Sound about right?
Anyway refitted old original king lead and have ordered Bougicord oem leads, £20 more but what price reliability, if that solves the problem.
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rusty nuts
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| posted on 8/2/15 at 10:48 AM |
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doesn't sound like HT leads to me, Falty HT leads are more likely to cause bad starting/misfire from cold and in damp weather. Possibly dodgy
CTS? but check live data if possible
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britishtrident
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| posted on 8/2/15 at 12:49 PM |
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As above sounds like a mixture problem caused by the coolant temperature sensor, the ECU may be seeing suspect readings for the coolant temperature
and falling back to a default mode which substitutes a default value.
First thing to do is check the wiring and plug at sensor. A CTS is a fairly reliable sensor but they can go faulty.
[I] “ What use our work, Bennet, if we cannot care for those we love? .”
― From BBC TV/Amazon's Ripper Street.
[/I]
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02GF74
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| posted on 8/2/15 at 01:02 PM |
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Hmmm you do have a point as engine never cuts out but on rare ocassion refuses to start, messing with the lead resulting in it starting is probay a
red herring.
I suppose i should have checked for diagnostic codes.
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wilkingj
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| posted on 8/2/15 at 01:11 PM |
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Depending on the year of your 850, most are not fully OBD compliant.
My old P reg one wasnt, and I had to solder up some leds and poke them in the socket, and count the flashes..
Its all out there on the internet.
Was very easy to do, crude, and works
Hopefully yours is not that old.
Fully compliant OBD was not until fairly late on.
Geoff
1. The point of a journey is not to arrive.
2. Never take life seriously. Nobody gets out alive anyway.
Best Regards
Geoff
http://www.v8viento.co.uk
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britishtrident
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| posted on 8/2/15 at 01:27 PM |
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It probably won't trigger a fault code (generic code p0118) though if the car is EOBDII compliant it will show up in unexpected readings
reading the live data from cold.
Istr On some Volvos the temperature sensor is mounted on thermostat housing has a short flylead because of its position it can suffer from corrosion
and heat damage to the fly lead connector.
[Edited on 8/2/15 by britishtrident]
[I] “ What use our work, Bennet, if we cannot care for those we love? .”
― From BBC TV/Amazon's Ripper Street.
[/I]
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02GF74
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| posted on 8/2/15 at 01:59 PM |
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No faults  1-1-1
Another thing could be air mass sensor, i am using k&n filter and have read tbe oil can contaminate the sensor.
Annoying that it is intermittent probkem, seemingly masked by lead wiggle.
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02GF74
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| posted on 15/2/15 at 03:18 PM |
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Ok, seems i was wrong. Brand new OEM leads and squirt at air masss sensor with carb clraner (looked clean) and it did it again . Need to wait maybe
10 mins and starts again.
So looks like coolant temp sensor to replace next.
Found it on the thermostat housing, the body is green with corrision (copper in the brass?) so is likely to be original one, 21 years old.
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02GF74
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| posted on 22/2/15 at 01:26 PM |
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.... to continue with this, bought a sensor but cant pull the sodding 2 pin plug apart!! pins mush have corroded together, access is quite
tight so a bit stumped as what to do next.
one possibliy is cut the cables off the sender and break apart the connect so as not to damage the one attached to the loom ... but that would mean I
could get stuck if I fail to remove the sender from the thermostat housing.
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02GF74
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| posted on 7/3/15 at 12:34 PM |
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An update in case anybody is interested.
3 1/2 hours later the cts is in and coolant replaced. It started badly with the nut on the jubilee clip shearing off, and it had to be the
inaccessible lower hose. Removing the under engine shield allowed access to it and dremel cut off disc saved the day.
Thermostat housing needs to be removed and the torx bolts were on tight! Impact driver saved the day. Cts itself was easily undone with a 19 mm
spanner.
The old connector body was cut apart as one of the pins had seized, no amount of tugging could separate it.
Then refitting was reverse of removal. Luckily volvo use a rubber seal instead of a thetmostat gasket so didnt need to go to the dealers, not ideal
but no leaks so far.
So thats it, just need to see if the problem is fixed.
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