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Author: Subject: GM E-tec (Kalos) engine running lumpy
po79

posted on 15/6/15 at 06:16 PM Reply With Quote
GM E-tec (Kalos) engine running lumpy

Hi all.

Its been ages since I've been on here and I know this my car is not a Kit but I am desprate and need your help please.

I have just got my Kalos 1.4ltr 8v SOHC back together today after the head gasket went I had the head skimmed and fitted new bolts and gaskets, water pump, timing belt and thermostat.

However when I started it earlier it ran lumpy so I gave it a gentle rev and took my foot off the throttle but it just spluttered and cut out. I had a quick look at everything but all looked fine so I started the engine again and it started but only with my foot on the throttle and it was still lumpy and there is a tapping/knocking sound.

Can anyone give me any idea of what could possibly be wrong.

Your help will be appreciated

Poe.

[Edited on 15/6/15 by po79]

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jacko

posted on 15/6/15 at 06:40 PM Reply With Quote
Cam belt /timing maybe ?
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po79

posted on 15/6/15 at 06:52 PM Reply With Quote
No I don't think so.

I turned the engine over several times by hand and the timing marks lined up fine before starting.
However it does seem like a timing error, I got the hump on so shut the bonnet and walked away but was going take the cam cover off tomorrow and see but I really don't think the timing can be out unless the belt jumped.

Could it be anything else?

Thanks for the reply,

Poe.

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theconrodkid

posted on 15/6/15 at 07:08 PM Reply With Quote
hydraulic tappets ?,could be they need a bit of time to pump up...oh and howdy neighbour





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ian locostzx9rc2

posted on 15/6/15 at 07:08 PM Reply With Quote
Hydrolic tappet collapsed or tappet rocker may have come adrift ?
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rusty nuts

posted on 15/6/15 at 07:15 PM Reply With Quote
Is the engine the same as a Chevrolet Kalos? If so have you set the valve clearances ? Failing that check for air leaks around the inlet manifold, correct firing order and it might be worth rechecking the valve timing .
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MikeRJ

posted on 15/6/15 at 07:48 PM Reply With Quote
Check for any vacuum hoses or electrical connectors that haven't been connected.
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big_wasa

posted on 15/6/15 at 09:11 PM Reply With Quote
I set the timming on k series once acording to the haynes manual and it did what you describe. A search on the net later and I found it was 180 deg out.
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britishtrident

posted on 16/6/15 at 07:58 AM Reply With Quote
Hydraulic tappets can get stuck after major overhauls they usually sort themselves out after a the engine warms up but the first thing to check is that all the vacuum hoses and engine sensors are connected. ISTR the 8v engine has a coil pack but has old fashioned plug leads so check the firing order , left side of the coil pack serves cylinders 1 & 4 the right side cylinders 2 & 3

Valve timing could be an issue but it won't be 180 degrees out (the engine simply would not run) a couple of teeth out is enough to make the engine reluctant to run.





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obfripper

posted on 16/6/15 at 12:23 PM Reply With Quote
Have you changed the oil after the h/g change?
If there is water emulsion, it can cause the tappets to not work correctly and not open the valves fully, and when it gets hot the tappets fill with steam and stop working completely.
I take it that you have the old vauxhall 8v engine in there, which this was a common problem after a headgasket failure.
Just warm up the engine as much as you can and drain the oil, the oil will be steaming as you drain it, change the filter as well.

Dave

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po79

posted on 16/6/15 at 05:56 PM Reply With Quote
Hey guys!

This is what I have always loved about this site loads of people willing to help and advise.

Howdy back "theconrodkid" but sadly I no longer live in Somerset I moved over to south Wales recently.

I've not had time to get to look at the car today and I've working nights for a few days now so it will have to wait a while but you have given me some good advise to start with.

Water in the tappets would make sense I only didn't change the oil as I wanted to run the engine up first and see everything worked and then do an oil change but as I don't know how much water has mixed with the oil I shouldn't have risked it really.

Yeah this is the old Vauxhall unit but can it really be 180 degrees out timing wise? It did cross my mind but the more I though about it the more confused I made myself

I always though that with the crank and cam marks lined up it could not be out as arent the injectors timed off the cam and the dissy a wasted spark system?

Thanks again for all the replies and I'll get back asap with what I find,

Poe.

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po79

posted on 25/6/15 at 05:37 PM Reply With Quote
Hi all,
Finally got to spend a little time on the Kalos yesterday and after changing the oil and filter the knocking/tapping was resolved however the car was still running rough so after a bit of messing I found that removing number two HT lead made no difference to how the engine ran so I changed that spark plug with number four and it ran the same so I took the HT lead off number four and the engine hardly ran at all so I thought maybe it could be the number two HT lead which I then exchanged with another HT lead but the original problem was still there with the HT lead on number two connected or not.
So the problem must be either within number two cylinder in the form of a compression leak or could the problem still be with the tappets on number two.
When the engine is revved up the lumpyness/misfire clears and the engine runs smooth.
What do you think? is there anything I could have overlooked?
I don't have my compression tester here so I'm going to have to buy a new one in order to test the compression.
Cheers,
Poe.

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Angel Acevedo

posted on 25/6/15 at 06:17 PM Reply With Quote
quote:
Originally posted by po79
...
So the problem must be either within number two cylinder in the form of a compression leak or could the problem still be with the tappets on number two.
When the engine is revved up the lumpyness/misfire clears and the engine runs smooth.
What do you think? is there anything I could have overlooked?
I don't have my compression tester here so I'm going to have to buy a new one in order to test the compression.
Cheers,
Poe.


I would suggest this is consistent with hydraulic tappet not filling fully @ low revs due to low oil pressure, when revs rise, oil pressure and flow go up and then tappet fills and stays filled therefore working OK.
I am not familiar with engine, so don´t know if carburetor or injection.
If carburetor, maybe a plugged Idle Jet.
If Injection, maybe an injector not opening fully at idle?
Last, compression leaks will also give rough idle and upon revving they don´t feel that bad...
Reading my post I come to the conclusion that all has been said before, but to discard Compression or Tappets, easiest would be compression tester.
there are a few DIY compression tester threads on this forum, you may cook one off...
HTH.
AA





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po79

posted on 25/6/15 at 07:09 PM Reply With Quote
Hi Angel Acevedo,

Thanks for the reply.

I have just found a push on compression tester in the shed so will try next week to get some accurate readings, shift pattern is hindering me getting much work done on the car.
If its the tappets still not filling fully how long would the engine need to be ran in order to get them working properly, only I don't want to run the engine for longer than necessary and cause any damage.
I might also remove the tappets on number two and clean and check them.

As I was running the engine earlier the auxillary belt snapped as if the car wasn't causing me enough problems!!!

I will post back with my next set of findings,

Cheers,

Poe.

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