nick205
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| posted on 26/11/15 at 03:38 PM |
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205 GTI engine rebuild Qs
Hi All,
Whilst I'm unable to drive I thought I might pull the 1.9 engine from my 205 GTI and rebuild it.
Not having tackled a wet liner engine before, do I need to disturb and re-seat the liners?
Any thoughts welcome 
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theconrodkid
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| posted on 26/11/15 at 03:45 PM |
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isnt it an iron block ?. on linered engines,if you turn the engine you will need to re-seal the liners,not sure on your one but normally you just
replace the seals top n bottom if needed.
who cares who wins
pass the pork pies
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perksy
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| posted on 26/11/15 at 03:46 PM |
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When you say "rebuild" how far are you planning on taking it ?
You can clamp the liners with the head removed if you don't want to disturb them when turning the engine over by hand
But don't put a spanner on the crank and rotate the engine without clamping the liners in place first
There is a liner protrusion dimension that you check with a straight edge and feelers (or similar)
Big end bearings and the oil pump are definitely worth checking when your in there
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nick205
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| posted on 26/11/15 at 03:55 PM |
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Well, here's the dilemma...to do it properly people say you should remove the liners, fit new seals and rings etc, but it means a whole load
more work and risk if it doesn't go well. I think I'm in favour of removing them and doing it properly, but it will be a ring tightener
when it starts for the first time!
ETA...if I leave them it means leaving the pistons, con rods etc, which isn't really doing it properly!
[Edited on 26/11/15 by nick205]
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nick205
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| posted on 26/11/15 at 03:58 PM |
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Thanks for the U2U HowardB, useful thing to know!
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perksy
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| posted on 26/11/15 at 04:02 PM |
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Their a whole lot easier to work on when their on an engine stand that's for sure 
It really depends on the state of the engine now to be fair ?
If there's no obvious running faults, compressions are good and oil pressure if also good and there's no oil leaks then it might be you
just drop the sump off and remove the big end caps for a check ?
A full nut & bolt rebuild of the engine is a different matter and a more expensive one aswell...
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loggyboy
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| posted on 26/11/15 at 05:24 PM |
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Mi16?
Mistral Motorsport
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nick205
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| posted on 26/11/15 at 05:29 PM |
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XU9JA 8v engine
Compression is OK and there are no oil leaks to be seen in the car.
Engine will be coming out and mounted on a stand so best go right in and do it properly :-)
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nick205
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| posted on 26/11/15 at 05:30 PM |
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quote:
Originally posted by theconrodkid
isnt it an iron block ?. on linered engines,if you turn the engine you will need to re-seal the liners,not sure on your one but normally you just
replace the seals top n bottom if needed.
Alloy block and head with wet liners inside.
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CosKev3
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| posted on 26/11/15 at 05:54 PM |
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Some times you have no choice once the head is lifted off,as sometimes a liner can be stuck to head and lift up with the head breaking the seal as you
remove head.
The other risk with removing the head and leaving the liners in place is they can lift a tiny amount,which you might not notice then you rebuild with
new gaskets etc to find the seal leaking between liner and block.
They are only a big rubber O ring,so go hard/perish over time
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loggyboy
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| posted on 26/11/15 at 06:48 PM |
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quote:
Originally posted by nick205
XU9JA 8v engine
Was a suggestive question!
Mistral Motorsport
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Brian R
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| posted on 26/11/15 at 10:15 PM |
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One way to break the head to gasket seal without (hopefully) disturbing the liners is to remove all the head bolts as normal bar one in the centre
which you'd loosen but not remove.
You then rotate the cylinder head around this remaining loose bolt partially just to break the seal. The head can then be carefully removed as
normal. Large washers should then be used using shorter bolts to clamp the liners in place before the engine is turned over. One washer would cover
numbers 1 and 2 liners and another for 3 and 4. This twisting method won't work though unfortunately if the head is located by dowels. I
can't remember if the 205 engine has dowels or not.
I gave my son a hand to rebuild his 1.9 8v a couple of years ago in his track car. (he'd stripped and cleaned everything). We just honed it as
normal and fitted new rings, mains, big ends and all the seals and gaskets etc as you would any engine. We didn't touch the liners at all and
used the washers to clamp them. It's a nice engine and still going strong to this day.
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snapper
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| posted on 27/11/15 at 06:44 AM |
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Every day is a school day
Don't you just love the knowledge on this forum
I eat to survive
I drink to forget
I breath to pi55 my ex wife off (and now my ex partner)
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CosKev3
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| posted on 27/11/15 at 08:15 AM |
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quote:
Originally posted by Brian R
One way to break the head to gasket seal without (hopefully) disturbing the liners is to remove all the head bolts as normal bar one in the centre
which you'd loosen but not remove.
You then rotate the cylinder head around this remaining loose bolt partially just to break the seal. The head can then be carefully removed as
normal. Large washers should then be used using shorter bolts to clamp the liners in place before the engine is turned over. One washer would cover
numbers 1 and 2 liners and another for 3 and 4. This twisting method won't work though unfortunately if the head is located by dowels. I
can't remember if the 205 engine has dowels or not.
I gave my son a hand to rebuild his 1.9 8v a couple of years ago in his track car. (he'd stripped and cleaned everything). We just honed it as
normal and fitted new rings, mains, big ends and all the seals and gaskets etc as you would any engine. We didn't touch the liners at all and
used the washers to clamp them. It's a nice engine and still going strong to this day.
Out of interest how many heads have you removed and off what engines that have had no dowels?
I've done a fair few head gaskets and never seen one that does not have dowels.
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Brian R
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| posted on 27/11/15 at 02:32 PM |
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It was the method we used on the Renault 1.4 pushrod engine (wet linered) as fitted to the Volvo 340. I'm sure it was the head bolt adjacent to
the distributor we'd leave in. Maybe that was the location of a dowel. I can't remember. It was 1986!
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nick205
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| posted on 30/11/15 at 09:32 AM |
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quote:
Originally posted by Brian R
It was the method we used on the Renault 1.4 pushrod engine (wet linered) as fitted to the Volvo 340. I'm sure it was the head bolt adjacent to
the distributor we'd leave in. Maybe that was the location of a dowel. I can't remember. It was 1986!
Did think of this approach, but the worry of disturbing the liners kind of makes me want to disturb them and remove them anyway!
The only engine I've built before was a 2.0 Pinto, which being cast iron and liner less was quite simple.
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SJ
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| posted on 30/11/15 at 09:58 AM |
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I did a head gasket on my old Visa GT years ago and had no issues with the liners moving. Not sure how similar it is to the XU though. I just followed
the instructions and bolted them down while the head was off.
Stu
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nick205
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| posted on 30/11/15 at 10:40 AM |
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quote:
Originally posted by SJ
I did a head gasket on my old Visa GT years ago and had no issues with the liners moving. Not sure how similar it is to the XU though. I just followed
the instructions and bolted them down while the head was off.
Stu
There is that option, but having them out and refitting seems a proper job!
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