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Author: Subject: Single Seater T89 chassis No:3 build
Charlie C

posted on 22/9/16 at 10:59 AM Reply With Quote
Single Seater T89 chassis No:3 build

Hi

I started building from plans T89 single seater (I've got chassie plate No:3) it the first chassis I've built and I'm finding it really interesting and fun.

Is there any one else out there building one of these if so how are you getting on?

I've always wanted a single seater since I was very little watching Senna Prost and Mansell racing around on a Sunday afternoon whilst listening to Murray Walks legendary commentary. A few years ago in 2012 I wanted I got that itch for a kit car preferably a single seater and there was talk of the ill fated Haynes single seater book being published but even then it looked like it would never happen so i built a Haynes roadster on a prebuilt Talon chassis which is due for its IVA test (all paid for just waiting to the test date).

When i spotted the T89 introductory offer popped up some moths ago I though why not give it ago, and I'm glad i did the pack is extensive and about the right level of detail without being overwhelming, the support has been spot on and Callan has bee very patient with me probably asking some daft questions.

So far I've not needed a lot of tools only Mig welder, angle grinder with cutting and grinding discs, chop saw ( you don't really need this if you have the build aid pack), scribe, decent metal 1m rule, small and large set squares and a permanent marker.

The roll over hopes and CDS tubes came from Tube Bender Limited I paid £200 I don't know if that's a good price or not it seemed OK to me.

I intend to put my car on the road eventually so I've got a pre 1994 ZZR1100 engine so I can avoid putting a catalyst on the exhaust and a MX5 diff and rear hubs so I can have a hand brake.

I built a very basic wooden jig to hold the front mid and rear sections in place whilst welding the link sections in it worked well for me in my small garage

The pictures below are of the build so far although I have put the front nose frame on and I'm working on the engine mounts.

It would be good to hear from any one else building one of these and if your thinking about buying a build pack I would recommend it.

Charlie




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[img][/img]Tube Bender

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Sam_68

posted on 22/9/16 at 12:05 PM Reply With Quote
Looking good!

It would be interesting to see one go through IVA for road use. How are you planning to deal with reverse gear? A sprocket on the diff input flange for electric drive?

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russbost

posted on 22/9/16 at 12:32 PM Reply With Quote
quote:
Originally posted by Sam_68
Looking good!

It would be interesting to see one go through IVA for road use. How are you planning to deal with reverse gear? A sprocket on the diff input flange for electric drive?


On the Furore we use a specially cut sprocket adjacent to the chain sprocket on the diff, expensive to get cut, but allows use of a standard starter motor (in our case the Toyota donor unit)

Shoud't be any great problems for IVA as long as it's put together properly, watch out for the seat belt mounting point height above seat base, it's likely to be a lot lower for the single seater than the IVA requirement. The other major one which may need a bit of redesign is ride height. If it's been designed with track use in mind it will be at least a couple of inches too low for sensible road use, fairly easy to design out in the suspension & mounting point stage, & some may be dialled out by use of larger wheels & tyres, for road use I would go for something with at least a 45 profile sidewall, it gives a little extra "suspension" in the tyre sidewall

Great little project!





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Charlie C

posted on 22/9/16 at 12:34 PM Reply With Quote
Hi

I plan to put a gear on the diff flange, most obsticalsl I'll come up against will have been covered in a lot of BEC builds also a number of single seaters have been put on the road so there's plenty of idea's out there for light position etc.

[Edited on 22/9/16 by Charlie C]

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Charlie C

posted on 22/9/16 at 12:52 PM Reply With Quote
quote:
Originally posted by russbost
quote:
Originally posted by Sam_68
Looking good!


Shoud't be any great problems for IVA as long as it's put together properly, watch out for the seat belt mounting point height above seat base, it's likely to be a lot lower for the single seater than the IVA requirement. The other major one which may need a bit of redesign is ride height. If it's been designed with track use in mind it will be at least a couple of inches too low for sensible road use, fairly easy to design out in the suspension & mounting point stage, & some may be dialled out by use of larger wheels & tyres, for road use I would go for something with at least a 45 profile sidewall, it gives a little extra "suspension" in the tyre sidewall

Great little project!


The cross tube where the seat belt mounts to is 500mm from the approximate seat base level, i plan to use a Tillet w1 seat so I can sit it very low.

The car is designed to run on 13inch wheels to over come the ride height and hard ride on the local well maintained roads I'm considering using 195/50/15 tyres.

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Doctor Derek Doctors

posted on 22/9/16 at 08:09 PM Reply With Quote
The chassis is looking really tidy Charlie. I like the wooden jig, I may add something like that to the build pack.

I have the DXF file for a diff mounted sprocket in my CAD library as well for when you want to do a reverse.

I was looking at the sizes as well, if you use 195/50/15 front and 235/50/15 rear you will add just under 1" to the ride height front and rear. Also you'll get the same width proportions as the race tyres.





Designer and Supplier of the T89 Designs - Single Seater Locost. Build you own Single Seater Racecar for ~£5k.

Plans and Drawings available, U2U or e-mail for details.

Available Now: The Sports Racer Add-On pack, Build a full bodied Sports Racer for Trackdays, Sprints and Racing.



www.t89.co.uk
www.racecarwings.co.uk

callan@t89.co.uk

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Charlie C

posted on 23/9/16 at 07:11 AM Reply With Quote
Morning

I've made a bit more progress at the weekend a dropped the engine in and started the engine mounts, on the pictures below you'll see my version 1 which illustrates the concept but I've refined the idea so the mounts bolt on to the chassis to aid install and removing the engine.

I found a really cheep set of knackered zzr1100 crank cases on ebay which have the mounting point intact the idea is I'll use these as a jig for locating the final engine mount locations as the cases will be lighter and easier to handle than a complete engine.

Yesterday after work I managed to cut and weld on the chassis support plates, I bought a Makita jigsaw in the Christmas sales last year I havn't used it much before yesterday they are well worth the extra money i can believe how well they cut, i did use some cutting oil which aways helps.

Engine mount V1 - the longitudinal bar also acts as a suport for the bulkhead between the engine bay and the fuel tank I plan to have a fuel tank the same length as the engine bay.

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Engine viewed from the front - I had some left over CDS which I've used as a diagonal brace and the longintudinal engine support bar mounts to it. The sharp eyed ones amongst you will notice the wonky tube which need realigning.


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Nose frame


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Doctor Derek Doctors

posted on 23/9/16 at 06:56 PM Reply With Quote
Engine mounts looking good, I like the use of the spare CDS to make the main bulkhead.

What exhaust are you planning to use? A custom made one along the side?





Designer and Supplier of the T89 Designs - Single Seater Locost. Build you own Single Seater Racecar for ~£5k.

Plans and Drawings available, U2U or e-mail for details.

Available Now: The Sports Racer Add-On pack, Build a full bodied Sports Racer for Trackdays, Sprints and Racing.



www.t89.co.uk
www.racecarwings.co.uk

callan@t89.co.uk

NOTE:This user is registered as a LocostBuilders trader and may offer commercial services to other users
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