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Author: Subject: Starting Issues
Ron Lang

posted on 31/12/16 at 08:20 PM Reply With Quote
Starting Issues

So, while I've been preoccupied with Zero#2, zero#1 has obviously been feeling a little left out.

On the way back from the garage the car overheated. We pulled over and let her cool down, discovering on once home that there was a leak in the cooling system. However, with the leak fixed and no obvious damage to anything else, the car is no longer starting. Its turning over absolutely as normal and fuel is getting through but the ignition system no longer seems to be working. Removing the plugs and earthing with the engine shows no spark but I;d be surprised if the coil pack had packed up.

Where do I go from here? Could it be a relay?

The only other thing I can think of is that the heat has fried some wiring but I;m not sure how best to diagnose the problem.

Of course, it could be entirely unrelated to the overheating but the car has never had starting issues before so it seems odd.

Many thanks,

Ron






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turnipfarmer

posted on 31/12/16 at 08:38 PM Reply With Quote
It's really not been your day, has it!!

What loom are you using?

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Ron Lang

posted on 31/12/16 at 08:43 PM Reply With Quote
quote:
Originally posted by turnipfarmer
It's really not been your day, has it!!

What loom are you using?


It isn't the GBS loom...that's all I can tell you as I didn't build the car.

The ECU is powering up so I can't see that its the engine/ECU relay. But surely that would only leave coil pack and associated wiring to check?






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turnipfarmer

posted on 31/12/16 at 08:54 PM Reply With Quote
big_wasa is the guy to sort that one out for you, faster than I ever could!
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britishtrident

posted on 31/12/16 at 10:54 PM Reply With Quote
For a start see this Scannerdanner video https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Ex1ChpWG1go&t=3s





[I] “ What use our work, Bennet, if we cannot care for those we love? .”
― From BBC TV/Amazon's Ripper Street.
[/I]

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Ron Lang

posted on 1/1/17 at 12:25 PM Reply With Quote
quote:
Originally posted by britishtrident
For a start see this Scannerdanner video https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Ex1ChpWG1go&t=3s


Looks like the Crank sensor could be a good place to start then!






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Ron Lang

posted on 1/1/17 at 04:40 PM Reply With Quote
According to emerald:

"When wired correctly the ECU LED status light will be red when the ignition is on, and will go green when the ECU registers the engine turning. If it stays red when you're cranking, then the ECU is not seeing the engine turning"

We are getting red then green so that would suggest it's not a crank sensor problem.






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mcramsay

posted on 1/1/17 at 11:39 PM Reply With Quote
The standard ford coil pack has a 3 pin connector, centre pin should be 12v switched live. Pins either side are earthed via the ecu to fire cylinders 1&3 ,4&2 in pairs. If you are getting no spark at all and no misifes this would indicate a faulty 12v supply to the coil pack or complete failure. I would first check you are getting 12v on the centre pin of the coil pack plug with the ignition on & the ecu earths are good. The coil pack is triggered via the crank position sensor but as you have stated this is working correctly. If you have 12v on the plug then I would swap out the coil pack. If you don't have 12v then some wiring may have got wet when you overheated and blown a fuse...or got the coil pack wet and nackered that.
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snowy2

posted on 2/1/17 at 08:24 AM Reply With Quote
saw a clip on you tube where a ford engine was prevented from starting by a faulty engine coolant sensor.....it showed up in the fault code reader as a really low temp when the ambient temp was some 30 odd degrees higher and high voltage (4.5V) on replacing it the engine started immediately.





sometimes you are the pigeon, most of the time the statue.

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Ron Lang

posted on 2/1/17 at 10:48 AM Reply With Quote
Both suggestions seem logical. The coolant sensor was something I was wondering about. Which of the various sensors on the engine need to be working correctly for the engine to run? For example, if you unplugged the air temp, oil pressure and coolant temp sensors, would the engine still run?






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mcramsay

posted on 2/1/17 at 10:55 AM Reply With Quote
The engine needs crank position & throttle position to run, if you unplug the coolant or air then the emerald will just use a default value. But the engine should still run all be slightly rough when cold. I would not think the coolant sensor is causing you issues but if you plug in a laptop to the emerald and look on the live adjustments screen you should see a temperature reading

Regardless a faulty coolant sensor would not cause you to loose spark. It would only effect the fuel mixture. The only parts that can cause spark issues are the Crank position sensor & coil pack

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