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Author: Subject: Volvo engined locost
Whittaker

posted on 5/1/17 at 12:30 PM Reply With Quote
Volvo engined locost

Hello there. This is my first post having been dropping in for quite a while I thought I should become a member.
I have had my locost chassis in my garage for over a year and have been gradually gathering parts for it. I originally planned and bought a zetec engine but just recently I have been toying with the idea of fitting a Volvo S80 2.4 and gearbox ( taken from my sons car which he left on a bit of spare land that I have ) I wondered if and how complicated it would be to use this engine in a transverse, rwd configuration. I am thinking that maybe, considering the associated costs with installing the zetec ( I don't have a gearbox or ecu etc. ) it would be less of an expense dropping the Volvo lump and gearbox in. Also would the Sierra diff that I already have be beefy enough to cope with the power?
Any thoughts/ideas/suggestions?
Cheers. Brian.

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Benzine

posted on 5/1/17 at 12:47 PM Reply With Quote
Hi, welcome to the forum

I'm guessing that's a whiteblock 5 cylinder? (B5244) If so an M90 gearbox from a Volvo 960 will bolt straight on - these are very rare, although there is a 960 manual on ebay volvo 960 2.5 RARE MANUAL low mileage (75k) t5 / t6 conversion

Personally I wouldn't use the M90, though. They're very short and fat and will take away some pedal room (I found out the hard way). There's a forum member on here who used a getrag box and mated that up to a volvo T5 engine, that sort of thing would seem a much better choice to me. Maybe there are companies online that will do whiteblock to RWD adapter plates

[Edited on 5-1-2017 by Benzine]

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Ugg10

posted on 5/1/17 at 01:06 PM Reply With Quote
quote:
Originally posted by Whittaker
I wondered if and how complicated it would be to use this engine in a transverse, rwd configuration.


Transverse means across the body therefore don't you mean "use the currently transverse engine in a longitudinal RWD configuration" ?

To add to the comments already, you may need to sort out some baffles in the sump as the G forces will be 90 degrees to what it was designed for when cornering/accelerating/stopping. May be worth looking at Vauxhall Omega gearboxes as around this time Vauxhall, Volvo and Saab shared many parts.

To be honest this is a pretty unique engine to use and so you will be flying solo much of the time and will have to design/make your own engine mounts (assuming the block has something to bolt onto), exhaust, any re-routing of the front auxiliary belt once you remove the AC and PS pumps, probably a gearbox adaptor and sorting out a clutch, any electrics/ecu etc. (may have variable valve control??? but using the oem ecu etc. will need you to bypass the PATs stuff and a whole load of other stuff) also have no idea how tall the engine is and whether the OEM inlet manifold will fit under the bonnet unless you go throttle bodies (required on post '95 engines for IVA) and therefore you will need an aftermarket ECU (emerald/omex/DTA/MS etc.).

If this is your first kit then I would suggest sticking with the Zetec as it have been done hundreds of times and is well understood and so you will get all the support and answers you need on here.

hope this helps





---------------------------------------------------------------
1968 Ford Anglia 105e, 1.7 Zetec SE, Mk2 Escort Workd Cup front end, 5 link rear
Build Blog - http://Anglia1968.weebly.com

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big_wasa

posted on 5/1/17 at 02:11 PM Reply With Quote
If its anything like the 2000> c70 run a mile.

For a start it's a drive by wire throttle body. Just about everything is coded to the ecu. Even the throttle body.

It makes the ford oem zetec ecu look like leggo.

But on the plus side it's a nice smooth powerful lump

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voucht

posted on 5/1/17 at 02:56 PM Reply With Quote
Sweden has a pretty active Locost community. You can try to post your question on their forum: http://forum.locostsweden.se/ I wouldn't be surprised that you found some people there who can give you good advices about your problem.

You can post in English, most of swedes understand and speak very good English (I speak from experience, being French and having lived in Sweden for 5 years where I built my Haynes Roadster and got it road legal!)

Hope that will help.





Sylvain
http://vouchtroadster.blogspot.se/

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Nickp

posted on 5/1/17 at 03:41 PM Reply With Quote
quote:
Originally posted by Whittaker
I wondered if and how complicated it would be to use this engine in a transverse, rwd configuration. I am thinking that maybe, considering the associated costs with installing the zetec ( I don't have a gearbox or ecu etc. ) it would be less of an expense dropping the Volvo lump and gearbox in. Also would the Sierra diff that I already have be beefy enough to cope with the power?
Any thoughts/ideas/suggestions?
Cheers. Brian.


There seems to be a bit of confusion here. The only way you could use the Volvo engine / box transversly and have RWD would be build a 'midi' (mid engined). If you're using a Sierra diff and building a conventional 7 then you'd be sourcing a RWD box (a BMW Getrag can be made to fit with an adapter plate) but that'd probably defeat the object TBH.

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Whittaker

posted on 6/1/17 at 10:57 AM Reply With Quote
Volvo powered locost

Hello again.
Thanks for the input and comments.
Sorry but I don't think I was clear enough in my original post. I have the complete Volvo car sitting outside, I was thinking maybe to lift the complete engine/box out of it and installing it as mid engine/gearbox, rwd not using the Sierra diff but the Volvo running gear. I'm not against using the zetec that I already have but thought it maybe less expensive to utilise the Volvo rather than scrap it totally than to complete the zetec setup. Hang on, now I'm thinking maybe the Volvo could make a better donor for something else? No, stop it! I think I'd better concentrate on one project at a time.

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Ugg10

posted on 6/1/17 at 11:13 AM Reply With Quote
Fitting a FWD engine in the rear of a standard seven chassis will not work from what I understand. The engine will sit where the seat backs are. The car you want to build is the Midlana if you want to go down this route. There was an attempt at this on ebay recently but it looked very strange.

ford kitkar 2ltr 16 valve unfinished project

So I think your options are -

Using a standard Haynes seven type chassis -
a) Longitudinal front engine, RWD - go the well trodden route of Zetec and Type 9 with sierra diff
b) Longitudinal front engine, RWD - Use the volvo engine, find a suitable gearbox, make up adaptors, exhaust, mounts etc. and sort out how to get it running without all of the Volvo infrastructure, may need some chassis mods and use sierra diff

Using the Volvo Engine and gearbox transverse in the rear for rwd (similar to MR2, Elise, VX220)

a) sell on the seven and build a Midlana/Sylva J17/R1ot
b) heavily modify the Haynes seven chassis by putting in over a foot of steel work behind the seats and removing a similar amount from the front, even then it would look very weird and you would have to make your own body work. This all assumes you have the capability to calculate the stresses in the new chassis to make sure it is safe.

Hope this helps.

[Edited on 6/1/17 by Ugg10]

[Edited on 6/1/17 by Ugg10]





---------------------------------------------------------------
1968 Ford Anglia 105e, 1.7 Zetec SE, Mk2 Escort Workd Cup front end, 5 link rear
Build Blog - http://Anglia1968.weebly.com

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Volvorsport

posted on 6/1/17 at 05:11 PM Reply With Quote
2/7/9 series engines will be an almost drop in for a locost.

5 cylinders are much better nowadays to install then when I was trying to flog it . But your better off using that in a midi....





www.dbsmotorsport.co.uk
getting dirty under a bus

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