quote:Originally posted by jeffw
Thanks for that ......
Didn't mean it like that
Was thinking of doing something similar myself, and based on my previous experience it cracked quickly,
was hoping a Pro job wouldn't then I would ask how they did it.
This time, I have tried using resin and short fibre, rather than a skim of filler/bondo in the hope that works.
quote:Originally posted by mark chandler
bones infilled to improve aero?
I did wonder about a couple of tabs and laying Ali in mine.
[Edited on 1/3/17 by mark chandler]
hahahahah, if only. No, that is the way Jeremy originally made them so they where strong enough. In the Phoenix/Striker of the period the pivot is
under the chassis rail and therefore you can't brace the upper arms.
Photo Archive
Building: Sold turboblade, back to tin tops
posted on 4/3/17 at 07:19 AM
I do like the rear, when I added a bit of width to my tub I cut it high up the way he has stretched it from the top out looks very good, neatly
finished below.
Has he chopped away the double skinning underneath and blended that all in as well?
Photo Archive
Building: Robin Hood series 3 + new project old Fury
posted on 4/3/17 at 08:20 AM
I like the look and am wondering if I could do similar (but not as phat) on my Fury
Where did you get the black arch extenders in the first photo? And did you use them as the base for the finished ones?
I eat to survive
I drink to forget
I breath to pi55 my ex wife off (and now my ex partner)
The black arches where off ebay (MX-5 arches from memory) and is something that Fury Sportcars supply now. The bulk of the arch was from Rob
Johnstone's widebody Cyana kit (£350) but he used the black arches as moulds to close down the gap in the wheel arch. You can see what has been
done here
Once the new suspension is on and the car is set for these tyres the gap between wheel and arch should reduce 1-2 inches.