Tommes
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| posted on 2/10/17 at 08:34 AM |
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Fuel Problem? Ford Silvertop Turbo conversion...
Hey there,
this is my first topic here, so i will use it for a short intro.
My name is Thomas, i am from Germany and my car is a Dax Rush wich was build by my new friend Yavor from Bulgaria.
I got this as replacement for the motorcycles i had and wich i sold due to family growth :-D
This is the car
The setup is:
2.0 L Ford Silvertop with Turbo conversion, running on injection, controlled by a Megasquirt using the original Ford sensors and the Ford EDIS
ignition. The loom was a original mondeo one wich was stripped down to the minimum.
2 Fuel pumps for fuel delivery
Since i got the car in July i really struggle with bigger and smaller issues. Most of them got sorted out (most of them electrical), but one big
problem remains:
The car starts very well. After a short warm up phase the car runs very good on idle too. I can go for a ride and the engine feels very strong and
runs clean. After a short while (max 10-15kms), no matter if i rev hard or go easy, the car will start to hardly rev up (rattle and shake like a bag
of nuts) and after some seconds, the engine dies and i am stuck on the road. i can wait a while to cool down the car and it will eather start again
(sometimes), or not.
The front fuel pump was dripping so it was changed to a new one (6,5 bar mercedes benz) and i was hoping to have solved the problem, but this morning
it happened again. Stuck in morning traffic in the dark and the rain started to pour down as soon as i was on the side of the road....big big fun.
Infos and ideas:
Fuel filter looks good, first fuel pump was already replaced.
Fuel Pump Relais was not replaced.
Could it be that the oxygen sensor shows strange behaviour on heat and the megasquirt gets the wrong information and misses the right fuel amount?
Thanks in advance to everyone who can help!
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theconrodkid
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| posted on 2/10/17 at 10:47 AM |
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could be a lot of things, does the fuel filler cap have a vent ?, if the tank is not venting, fuel wil not pumped from the tank, could be the coils,
do they get hot, does it do it if you are stationary, ie sitting there with the engine running and not driving, if not, could be a dry joint in the
ECU or wiring and vibration causing it to break down......good luck 
who cares who wins
pass the pork pies
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Tommes
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| posted on 2/10/17 at 10:49 AM |
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What i forgot:
i changed the crankshaft sensor some time ago because i suspected it to be the cause for my problems.
But that didnt help. Maybe one of the connectors has a problem when it gets hot.
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djtom
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| posted on 2/10/17 at 10:52 AM |
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Can you not connect a laptop to the Megasquirt and monitor it in real time when this problem happens? It should be pretty easy to identify if you have
an anomalous sensor reading or if there is a more physical problem here (e.g. coil breakdown or fuel starvation as said).
Post a copy of your msq and I will have a look to see if the settings that you are using compare well with mine (thinking of dwell time settings etc).
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Tommes
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| posted on 2/10/17 at 10:53 AM |
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Ventilation of the fuel tank was checked, everything fine.
It also happens when stationary...
I didnt have the coils on the map....
but.....i know this from motorcycles, had a yamaha vmax that made crazy stuff because of a broken coil....!
Good idea.
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Tommes
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| posted on 2/10/17 at 11:25 AM |
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@DJTom: i actually already did that. Will connect it again and heat it up while stationary.
Last time, the logfile didn't show any suspicious values.
If you want, i can send you my tune and the new logfile.
All i know, when i cooencted the laptop the last time, the values for AFR where going crazy, even if the car was running correctly.
I will try to record that behaviour.
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coyoteboy
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| posted on 2/10/17 at 12:19 PM |
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Fire some logs out to us, it will help us diagnose remotely, even if it's not an ECU issue.
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Tommes
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| posted on 2/10/17 at 12:58 PM |
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Tomorrow is a holiday in germany, i will do a new log tomorrow and post it here.
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chris
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| posted on 2/10/17 at 02:38 PM |
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If you're AFR is all over the place but car runs ok at that moment then lambda sensor may be shot even one misfire could render lambda useless
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madteg
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| posted on 2/10/17 at 07:13 PM |
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What coil drivers are in the ECU could be braking down when hot. I had to fit BOSCH BIP ones to sort a similar problem
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Tommes
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| posted on 3/10/17 at 06:32 AM |
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I wanted to upload my log file and the tune. But i cant figure out how.... any hints?
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Tommes
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| posted on 3/10/17 at 06:45 AM |
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Ok, i think i got it...
2017-06-10_14.54.29.msl
2017-10-03_08.14.30.msq
The log file is a bit older, but with the same issues. It was a normal ride and the engine dies around 1164....
[Edited on 3/10/17 by Tommes]
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Tommes
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| posted on 3/10/17 at 04:52 PM |
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So, i did a log right now outside my house with a stationary car.
I started the log after 2 or 3 minutes where the car was already running.
2017-10-03_18.21.04.msl
The engine was running quiet well, afr was not moving at all in the beginnig, a bit strange in between, quiet normal towards the end and totally out
of bounds when the engine started to run run like a young bull with a rider on its back until it decided to go to sleep.
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CosKev3
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| posted on 3/10/17 at 09:16 PM |
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Can't view that as soon as I click on it it fulls my phone with stupid adverts 
Is the AFR going massively weak or rich when car cuts out?
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Tommes
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| posted on 4/10/17 at 04:13 AM |
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Damn,
i uploaded the files to my google drive. that should be without ads...
https://drive.google.com/open?id=0B0JoBtrEtZxfTG5UaVp1alZCWm8
AFR goes super lean obviously, up to 17 in between,... i made videos but missed the point where it runs really bad.
at the end: above 17...
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chris
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| posted on 4/10/17 at 04:36 AM |
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If it runs ok until it warms up you could have a look at your temperature sensor settings
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Tommes
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| posted on 4/10/17 at 05:38 AM |
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Good point.
But the car heats up till the point where the cooler fan turns on (91° i think), cools down to 85 or 86, fan switches off, no issues. The Problems
begin beyond that point...
[Edited on 4/10/17 by Tommes]
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CosKev3
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| posted on 4/10/17 at 06:30 AM |
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Are you running it on closed loop fueling?
Is fuel cut on over run set up?
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Tommes
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| posted on 4/10/17 at 06:40 AM |
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Actually i don't know.
I am just getting to know the megasquirt.
Maybe the tune on my google drive will tell you?
Anyway, i think i am going to replace the old standard oxygen sensor with an innovate wideband sensor i have sitting around from my motorcycle days.
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Tommes
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| posted on 4/10/17 at 07:06 AM |
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One thing i noticed: i watched the video again and at one point, the noise of the front fuel pump (brand new) changes and gets really noisy. The sound
is not very constant, hard to discribe, but it sounds a bit like there is air sucked in.
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theconrodkid
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| posted on 4/10/17 at 07:18 AM |
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the pump sound changing and it leaning out to my tiny mind means, there is a restriction somewhere.
you mention front pump, i assume you have a lift pump as well?.
all you need really is a rear mounted HP pump, we have a saying here KISS....keep it simple stupid.
who cares who wins
pass the pork pies
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Tommes
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| posted on 4/10/17 at 07:28 AM |
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I have a 2 pump setup:
Fuel Tank, external pump, filter, swirl tank, second pump, fuel rail.
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theconrodkid
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| posted on 4/10/17 at 07:44 AM |
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any pics of the 2 pumps including the tank outlet hose size ?.
could be the 2 pumps are fighting each other, in reality just the HP one near or in the tank is enough.
who cares who wins
pass the pork pies
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Tommes
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| posted on 4/10/17 at 07:52 AM |
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No pics at the moment.
The car was running well like that for a long time befor i bought it.
Inner pipe diameter is 10mm.
I just learned, it runs an open loop fuel system.
The oxygen sensor does not communicate with the megasquirt.
[Edited on 4/10/17 by Tommes]
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theconrodkid
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| posted on 4/10/17 at 08:06 AM |
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10mm inlet is ok, as i said before, sounds like the pumps are fighting each other, one may be dying and causing the problem now, try a re-plumb with
just the HP at the rear, O sensor really does need to be talking to megasquirt otherwise it is just ballast
who cares who wins
pass the pork pies
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