Printable Version | Subscribe | Add to Favourites
New Topic New Poll New Reply
Author: Subject: Best primer / topcoat for a full respray?
Nickp

posted on 10/11/17 at 07:09 AM Reply With Quote
Best primer / topcoat for a full respray?

I've accepted that the Midas will need painting sooner rather than later as the gelcoat is a real mess, not much cracking but somehow stained so it actually has a marble effect. Ok in a hotel lobby but less so on a kit car
I have a well ventilated garage and a small 50ltr compressor.
It seems I'll need an epoxy primer of some sort?
But which top coat? Obviously not 2K, cellulose still OK? (painted my Monte in celly, no issues). Seems these swanky modern water based paint have to be lacquered over anyway. This right? Was hoping not to be lacquering if I can help it tbh.

Any advice or recommendations welcomed.

View User's Profile View All Posts By User U2U Member
tilly819

posted on 10/11/17 at 08:35 AM Reply With Quote
Hi Nick,

You have about hit the nail on the head.

You do not have the facilities to paint with 2K so please don't even consider it. As i'm sure you already know the heath implications are very serious.
Waterbased, yes to get the best out of it it wants to be a COB (clear over base) paint job, so you would want to lacquer it. Not ideal in a dusty garage.

That leaves you with synthetic and cellulose.

Synthetic is very cheep and can be a bit tricky to paint to a high standard if you don't know what you are doing.

Cellulose is also very cheap but in my opinion easier to spray than synthetic. The trick with cellulose is lots of light coats which means it can take a while but you will get a perfectly acceptable paint job when you are done and it would be appropriate for the age of the vehicle too.

Hope this helps

Tilly





F20C Haynes roadster 440 BHP/Tonne

View User's Profile View All Posts By User U2U Member
tilly819

posted on 10/11/17 at 08:46 AM Reply With Quote
Sorry forgot about the primer.

I would go for a 1K etch primer. They are generally fairly high build so you would not need a secondary primer like you would with a 2K etch (which you should not be using anyway)

> Sand, fill, flat
>Clean.....then clean again....then again....and once more to be sure..
>1k Etch prime, if good enough finish go straight to top coat, if not then you can lightly flat once dry.
>Multiple light coats of cellulose, again if good enough finish you are done if not wait a couple of days then wet sand and polish.

Also this time of year you will want to heat you workshop as the paint will not like the low temperatures.

Cheers

Tilly





F20C Haynes roadster 440 BHP/Tonne

View User's Profile View All Posts By User U2U Member
Nickp

posted on 10/11/17 at 09:42 AM Reply With Quote
Ta Tilly,

So a 1K etch primer then a normal cellulose primer?
I prefer the idea of cellulose tbh as I've used it lots of times before so know where I'm at. I'm thinking of 'Applejack Green' to keep it period

Sorry, just read again, 1K primer only?

[Edited on 10/11/17 by Nickp]

View User's Profile View All Posts By User U2U Member
tilly819

posted on 10/11/17 at 12:24 PM Reply With Quote
Depending on how good your prep is you can "get away with" topcoat straight on top of 1K etch providing it is a high build etch primer. A lot of them are.. if you are in any doubt about it then you can do the normal, Etch>Prime>Topcoat

Personally I would do the 3 step process and use a primer on top of the etch as this allow you a bit more margin for error when you flat back before the topcoat.

Hope this helps

Tilly

EDIT: Ps. Yes just a normal cellulose primer, normally you can do wet on wet at this stage but please check with the paint manufacturer!! and some products may react if you do wet on wet.

[Edited on 10/11/17 by tilly819]





F20C Haynes roadster 440 BHP/Tonne

View User's Profile View All Posts By User U2U Member
iant88

posted on 10/11/17 at 12:26 PM Reply With Quote
Isn't the Midas fibreglass ?

Why do you recommend etch-primer ?

View User's Profile View All Posts By User U2U Member
tilly819

posted on 10/11/17 at 12:45 PM Reply With Quote
I believe they are fiberglass, yes. Most etch primers are compatible with GRP, always check the data sheet / with the supplier though as some may not be!
It just provides more bond between the panel and the subsequent layers of paint.
Another option would be a plastic grip primer. They are special primers formulated for, you guessed it, applying direct to plastics, as many plastics (polyester GRP inc) do not like being bonded to once they are past there green stage in their curing cycle.
You can do it without but for the extra few s its worth it.

Cheers

Tilly





F20C Haynes roadster 440 BHP/Tonne

View User's Profile View All Posts By User U2U Member

New Topic New Poll New Reply


go to top






Website design and SEO by Studio Montage

All content 2001-16 LocostBuilders. Reproduction prohibited
Opinions expressed in public posts are those of the author and do not necessarily represent
the views of other users or any member of the LocostBuilders team.
Running XMB 1.8 Partagium [ 2002 XMB Group] on Apache under CentOS Linux
Founded, built and operated by ChrisW.