ElmrPhD
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| posted on 17/2/18 at 12:04 PM |
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Relocating shifter (of Honda S2000)
Hi All,
Has anyone done this? I know, the Westfield MegaS2000s already have the drivetrain set nicely back to where no adjustment is needed, but my car
isn't like that - we didn't have time to widen the tunnel, etc. to get the engine&tranny back where I'd like it. So...the
stick/knob is way too far forward.
But...simply sticking an extension on to the original stick results in very sloppy shifting because (of the extra leverage and) of rubber that is
built into the original stick.
Has anyone opened up the original stick to reveal what's inside all that rubber? I need to know if, when I get rid of all that rubber, there
is a nice piece of metal for me to attach an extension. Don't wanna just dive in there without knowing that I can do better than my extremely
temporary solution:
[img]https://mail.google.com/mail/u/0/?ui=2&ik=f75dcff124&view=att&th=1619b67e54faa3e9&attid=0.3&disp=safe&zw[/img]
[img]https://mail.google.com/mail/u/0/?ui=2&ik=f75dcff124&view=att&th=1619b67e54faa3e9&attid=0.5&disp=safe&zw[/img]
(Extension cobbled from S2000's old A/C bracket...)
Thanks!
Steve, in the NLs
MNR Vortx with Honda F20C power
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SPYDER
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| posted on 17/2/18 at 06:25 PM |
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Hi Steve. The s2000 lever looks identical to the IS200 AZ6 lever. If you chop the conical black sleeve to bits it will reveal a short metal lever. I
fixed my gear knob directly to it.
I had the opposite problem to yours. I had to move the lever forward five inches. It might look a bit agricultural but it is rock solid and works
perfectly.
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ElmrPhD
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| posted on 18/2/18 at 01:25 PM |
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Hi Spyder,
That's some impressive work. If you think THAT'S "agricultural"...wait till you see what I'm likely to do. That is,
(after reading your text) destroy the S2000 shift lever in order to get at the metal core (that you say is there waiting for me) and then simply
attaching some sort of extension to bring the knob back and to the driver.
What do you think - will that work?
Thanks a bunch for your answer.
Steve, in the NLs
P.S. my attempt at posting images in the original post failed. How did you do it?
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SPYDER
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| posted on 18/2/18 at 07:41 PM |
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Hi Steve. If I was in your position I would "bite the bullet" and cut off the entire gear lever bowl section and fabricate an extended
mount for it further back. Then extend the actuating rod to suit.
As regards posting pictures try uploading them to your LCB photo archive then posting them from there.
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rusty nuts
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| posted on 18/2/18 at 08:24 PM |
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Would it be possible to make up a remote extension similar to one for a type9 box?
I've just had a look for a DIY remote extension post by David Jenkins but can't find it that showed how to extend the linkage for a type 9
but using a spacer tube to join and extend the gear change shaft and a plate to extend the gear lever rewards by the same amount , looking at the
photos it should be fairly easygoing?
[Edited on 18/2/18 by rusty nuts]
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ElmrPhD
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| posted on 19/2/18 at 08:04 AM |
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Thanks guys.
I'll likely take up your good advice later on. For now, I'm on a rush to get it on the road within a month, so I will see if I can make a
simple extension back (and a little toward the driver). I'm kinda' on my own in a small town where I hardly speak the language (Dutch)
and my biology background doesn't lend itself well to engineering and developing linkages and getting it right the first time. I have more
excuses, too, but those are the main ones...
I actually have some home-made extension linkage parts for the MT75 box that I was going to use before it and the K20A engine burned down in a huge
fire, but having trouble seeing how to mount that on the F20C's gearbox. And when I finally DO the fancy linkage mod' I'll have to
replace the butchered tranny tunnel. Next year, perhaps...
Thanks, again.
Steve, in the NLs
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rusty nuts
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| posted on 19/2/18 at 01:53 PM |
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If you do manage to make a remote I'm sure others using the same box would appreciate some photos?
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