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Author: Subject: silly mistake :-(
craigdiver

posted on 28/10/18 at 11:23 AM Reply With Quote
silly mistake :-(

I hate making mistakes but have found that my upper anchorages are only 400mm above the reference point not 450mm as required by IVA section 31, requirement 16. Going to have to rework my roll hoop and have it powder coated again. Silly mistake - annoyed at myself :-(







If it ain't broken, fix it anyway (just because).

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Daf

posted on 28/10/18 at 11:41 AM Reply With Quote
Have you got any scope to lower the seat at all?
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craigdiver

posted on 28/10/18 at 11:48 AM Reply With Quote
quote:
Originally posted by Daf
Have you got any scope to lower the seat at all?


did look at that but seat is only 50mm off the floor (25mm runners + 25mm subframe).

shouldn’t be too big a job to rework rear hoop, just a pain having to pay to get it powder coated again - entirely my fault. Rear hoop was fabricated while car was in bits





If it ain't broken, fix it anyway (just because).

Building - BMW powered Haynes Roadster/442E hybrid.

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mccsp

posted on 28/10/18 at 12:11 PM Reply With Quote
On the positive side, at least it bolts in and out!





Why do it the easy way, when I can do things my way!

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craigdiver

posted on 28/10/18 at 12:16 PM Reply With Quote
quote:
Originally posted by mccsp
On the positive side, at least it bolts in and out!


I think ill have to knock up a brace which will be exact size of mounting holes as likely once the welds are ground down and rewelded in position it could open or close the roll hoop spacing.





If it ain't broken, fix it anyway (just because).

Building - BMW powered Haynes Roadster/442E hybrid.

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Toys2

posted on 28/10/18 at 02:24 PM Reply With Quote
Could you fit inserts to have the eyelets vertical so they are at the top of the tube?
In fact I've never seen them as you currently have them, is that allowed anyway?

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craigdiver

posted on 28/10/18 at 02:45 PM Reply With Quote
quote:
Originally posted by Toys2
Could you fit inserts to have the eyelets vertical so they are at the top of the tube?
In fact I've never seen them as you currently have them, is that allowed anyway?


Eye bolts should never have the loading at over 45 degrees from centre, this will cause excessive shear forces on the eye, I would be surprised if having the load at 90 degrees (shearing load) would be allowed. However, in saying that I suspect the forces created, even in an impact, are a fraction of the rated loading of the shouldered eyebolt.





If it ain't broken, fix it anyway (just because).

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sdh2903

posted on 28/10/18 at 03:17 PM Reply With Quote
Every westfield has them vertically.
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craigdiver

posted on 28/10/18 at 04:37 PM Reply With Quote
quote:
Originally posted by sdh2903
Every westfield has them vertically.


cars must be different from the real world, you wouldn’t be allowed to lift a load using eye bolts at that angle due to the shear forces. Would be interested to hear from an opinion from an automotive engineer.





If it ain't broken, fix it anyway (just because).

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steve m

posted on 28/10/18 at 05:25 PM Reply With Quote
Think I would be moving the eye bolt up, and the seat down first, and take it for the test as it is,
If it fails, do something about it, if it pass's then jobs a goodun

As there are only a very very few who have passed first time

steve





Thats was probably spelt wrong, or had some grammer, that the "grammer police have to have a moan at




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sdh2903

posted on 28/10/18 at 05:29 PM Reply With Quote
In fact every kit car ive seen has them vertically.

They are well over engineered any way. Even in a 10g accident they are only going to have to restrain what say a ton of force ? and there's 4 per person.

How have you mounted your lower eye bolts through the floor vertically to keep them in the correct plane?

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craigdiver

posted on 28/10/18 at 05:30 PM Reply With Quote
quote:
Originally posted by steve m
Think I would be moving the eye bolt up, and the seat down first, and take it for the test as it is,
If it fails, do something about it, if it pass's then jobs a goodun

As there are only a very very few who have passed first time

steve


I like your thinking, seats cannot be lowered, any ideas how to raise the eyebolt 50mm - I could bolt a very sturdy bracket to the existing eyebolt bush tube and bolt the eyebolt to the top of the bracket? anybody seen anything like this?





If it ain't broken, fix it anyway (just because).

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craigdiver

posted on 28/10/18 at 05:38 PM Reply With Quote
quote:
Originally posted by sdh2903
In fact every kit car ive seen has them vertically.

They are well over engineered any way. Even in a 10g accident they are only going to have to restrain what say a ton of force ? and there's 4 per person.

How have you mounted your lower eye bolts through the floor vertically to keep them in the correct plane?


very good point, my lower mounts are loading up at 90 degrees as the upper ones would be if they were vertical





If it ain't broken, fix it anyway (just because).

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Toys2

posted on 28/10/18 at 06:01 PM Reply With Quote
So would this be an option?

Not my photo and obviously your fixings would be on top of the bar

Description
Description

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craigdiver

posted on 28/10/18 at 06:14 PM Reply With Quote
maybe some extension pieces like this, would only need to be 50mm tall







If it ain't broken, fix it anyway (just because).

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Kevin

posted on 28/10/18 at 06:51 PM Reply With Quote
My car failed first time with seats that look like yours. The reason was that the back of the seat was not high enough. I know that the head rest will raise but was told that you could only have up to 25mm gap between the top of the seat and the bottom of the head rest. Please double check this as I was nervous on the day and might have got this wrong.
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craigdiver

posted on 28/10/18 at 07:01 PM Reply With Quote
quote:
Originally posted by Kevin
My car failed first time with seats that look like yours. The reason was that the back of the seat was not high enough. I know that the head rest will raise but was told that you could only have up to 25mm gap between the top of the seat and the bottom of the head rest. Please double check this as I was nervous on the day and might have got this wrong.


this is getting worse by the minute, going to raise the bar with the seatbelt anchorages 100mm and take my chance with the seats :-(





If it ain't broken, fix it anyway (just because).

Building - BMW powered Haynes Roadster/442E hybrid.

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jps

posted on 28/10/18 at 07:22 PM Reply With Quote
quote:
Originally posted by craigdiver
quote:
Originally posted by mccsp
On the positive side, at least it bolts in and out!


I think ill have to knock up a brace which will be exact size of mounting holes as likely once the welds are ground down and rewelded in position it could open or close the roll hoop spacing.


Weld in the new one before you cut out the old one?

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craigdiver

posted on 28/10/18 at 07:25 PM Reply With Quote
quote:
Originally posted by jps
quote:
Originally posted by craigdiver
quote:
Originally posted by mccsp
On the positive side, at least it bolts in and out!


I think ill have to knock up a brace which will be exact size of mounting holes as likely once the welds are ground down and rewelded in position it could open or close the roll hoop spacing.


Weld in the new one before you cut out the old one?


It will be the same one, just moved, was costly to get the 7/16” threaded bushes made in a custom length. Spoken to my mate (professional welder who originally welded it up and does not see a problem grinding down the welds and re-welding 100mm higher)





If it ain't broken, fix it anyway (just because).

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melly-g

posted on 28/10/18 at 08:04 PM Reply With Quote
If they're baby cub seats take the base pad off.
Would that make a difference? Just put a pad on the base instead.
I think I only had a piece of carpet on mine for the test!

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craigdiver

posted on 28/10/18 at 08:08 PM Reply With Quote
quote:
Originally posted by melly-g
If they're baby cub seats take the base pad off.
Would that make a difference? Just put a pad on the base instead.
I think I only had a piece of carpet on mine for the test!


Genius idea, that would fix it, the thick (6”+) seat pad does move and appears to be fixed in be material at the front but would be worth cutting it to remove it and replace with thin foam pad, this would sort anchorages height and possible seat back height.





If it ain't broken, fix it anyway (just because).

Building - BMW powered Haynes Roadster/442E hybrid.

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gremlin1234

posted on 28/10/18 at 08:30 PM Reply With Quote
quote:
seat pad / seat base

technical term is seat squab, ( but don't confuse it with young pigeons! )

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craigdiver

posted on 28/10/18 at 08:32 PM Reply With Quote
quote:
Originally posted by gremlin1234
quote:
seat pad / seat base

technical term is seat squab, ( but don't confuse it with young pigeons! )


haha, that made me laugh :-)





If it ain't broken, fix it anyway (just because).

Building - BMW powered Haynes Roadster/442E hybrid.

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pmc_3

posted on 28/10/18 at 09:16 PM Reply With Quote
Could you make up some spacers to fit under the roll bar mounts and raise the roll bar instead of moving the harness fixings?
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craigdiver

posted on 28/10/18 at 09:19 PM Reply With Quote
quote:
Originally posted by pmc_3
Could you make up some spacers to fit under the roll bar mounts and raise the roll bar instead of moving the harness fixings?


going to remove the seat squabs, they are at least 6” thick so will also fix any seatback not being tall enough issues, but thank you for the suggestion





If it ain't broken, fix it anyway (just because).

Building - BMW powered Haynes Roadster/442E hybrid.

Abarth 595
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