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Author: Subject: Rust proofing the tin top before itís rustyÖ
Mr Whippy

posted on 27/12/19 at 10:16 AM Reply With Quote
Rust proofing the tin top before itís rustyÖ

So I have one of these VW Upís <-- there it is in the pic, had it over a year now and honestly just delighted with it what great car . Itís on finance for 5 years no final payment and just £140 a month so really very cheap and I intend to keep the car till the end of its life whenever that will be or we can no longer buy petrol and then I convert it into an EV

Now it is thoroughly washed weekly, polishedÖa lot and stored overnight every night in a garage so all that helps but Iíve been itching to rust proof the underside, suspension etc but as itís under finance with VW Iím not sure I should do this, they do seem to say not to modify the car (tbh I would not get finance again through a dealer but my bank instead because of this).

Itís just I do not want to wait 5 years to end up having to sort rust out rather than just preventing it happening by acting now. I do all the servicing of the car myself as itís out of warranty so VW should never see the car again. What do you think, is it too risky to underseal the car now or should I pray and wait till I own the car? So far there is a few spots of rust forming on a few locations on the suspension (bottom of the dampers, backplates etc and these will be cleaned and painted in the summer. There's no signs of any rust so far on the underside of the bodyshell.


Rather than my usual Waxoyl (I am a bit of an underseal maniac) I had been thinking of using plastikote truck bed liner spray as that seems to have great reviews and looks nicer...







[Edited on 27/12/19 by Mr Whippy]

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r1_pete

posted on 27/12/19 at 10:42 AM Reply With Quote
Take a look at the Bilt Hamber products, they do cavity wax, hard wax etc.

Getting bed liner to adhere properly may be a challenge, and poor adhesion is worse than no paint at all, as it will draw moisture in and keep it there.

I prefer the soft waxy water repellents, they need topping up but they do penetrate seams well, and work their way into the areas prone to moisture retention.

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Mr Whippy

posted on 27/12/19 at 10:45 AM Reply With Quote
Cheers, I'll look into them thanks

Still not sure if i should though...

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r1_pete

posted on 27/12/19 at 10:56 AM Reply With Quote
I donít see why not, you are not modifying it, you are protecting and preserving it.

Sounds like you have no intention of selling, or any other reason the finance company should even consider looking at the car, in the event of an accident, would the insurer consider rust prevention a mod? I think not... Glue some chavtastic wheel arches, an upturned oil sump bonnet bulge, and a soil pipe tailpipe and they might have something to say

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cliftyhanger

posted on 27/12/19 at 11:14 AM Reply With Quote
On my spitfire (car!) I used dinitrol products when I built it.
used a very thin MIL wax in cavities and seams etc. It is almost like WD40 but soaks into a rusty surface (inside box sections etc) and seems to stay there from having had to carry out a recent accident repair.
For the wheel arches and areas likely to get hit by stones etc I used their hard wax. It dries almost as hard as underseal, but unlike underseal it doesn't lift/split or whatever, and after 5 years and many miles including fast european trips in the pouring rain is still intact. I was expecting to reapply every year, but not needed yet. Other advantage is it will be much easier to remove than underseal. Be good for vulnerable suspension components.

Similir to Bilt Hamber and no doubt others. Waxoyl is hopeless in comparison.

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sdh2903

posted on 27/12/19 at 01:20 PM Reply With Quote
I use this stuff. Brilliant to use. I wouldn't even hesitate regarding the finance issue. Especially as your not handing it back.

https://www.u-pol.com/uk/en-uk/product/upol/coatings-uk/specialist-coatings/gravitex-plus-hs-stone-chip-protector#.XgYEnLfLedM

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Mr Whippy

posted on 27/12/19 at 03:09 PM Reply With Quote
Cheers for the replies and all the product suggestions, yeah maybe truck bed liner is not the best choice. I might be happier using some coating that is grey as that is the colour of the underside anyway and the running gear is black so dinitrol may be best for that. Brush on would be preferred to limit mess and over-spray as I don't want to start pulling it apart.

Ok I'll treat the underside and if VW ever does say anything I'll just tell them it wasn't protected enough in the first place...

Thanks

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snapper

posted on 28/12/19 at 06:22 AM Reply With Quote
The main problem of rust is moisture not draining out of enclosed spaces, cars tend to rust from the inside out.
Yes youíll get surface rust on the underside but thatís cosmetic, most cars rust at the bottom of doors, wheel arch lips, headlight recess in the wings, box sections of the chassis etc, so wax oil or equivalent but donít block any drain holes.





I eat to survive
I drink to forget
I breath to pi55 my ex wife off (and now my ex partner)

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Mr Whippy

posted on 30/12/19 at 09:43 AM Reply With Quote
Unfortunately VW group seem to like plugging up all the traditional open holes on the underside, on my little car there are no less that 62 rubber plugs down there! I can see no open sill drain holes at all...

The artical below is a good summary of the issue and sills full of water is a very common problem, I have put holes in the centre of some of the easier reached ones with a soldering iron

Linky

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Charlie_Zetec

posted on 30/12/19 at 04:32 PM Reply With Quote
In "Land Rover world" Buzzweld products seems to be a big hit. Not had any personal dealings with the other than speaking to Craig (the guy who owns the company), but found him incredibly knowledgeable. Plenty of products to choose from, all with different properties/characteristics. Worth a look, as i know he responds pretty sharpish on his Facebook page....





Artificial intelligence is no match for natural stupidity!

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ken555

posted on 30/12/19 at 07:07 PM Reply With Quote
quote:
Originally posted by Mr Whippy I have put holes in the centre of some of the easier reached ones with a soldering iron




Look for some "witches hat grommet" the right size. Normally used for wiring, but great for this.
They are like funnels lets the water out, but not in.

Can be milked like a cow if they block.






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steve m

posted on 30/12/19 at 10:29 PM Reply With Quote
Do you really think that your Vw is going to rust away ?
Its more likely to show more to the gallon than your actually getting

Modern cars do not rust like the ones we had in the early 60's, 70's-80's, they would rust just leaving them outside in summer

steve





Thats was probably spelt wrong, or had some grammer, that the "grammer police have to have a moan at




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StrikerChris

posted on 31/12/19 at 02:50 PM Reply With Quote
I doused my 1985 maestro in rocal Z30, got afew gallon I brushed on, and about a dozen tins I sprayed into every hole, panel gap etc I could find (of which there are many!) still solid as it probably was 10 years on.
Not that I'd like to have to pay for the stuff, was a perk of the job I was in at the time.
Chris

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Benzine

posted on 31/12/19 at 10:07 PM Reply With Quote
I love how often I get stuck behind a VW Up. It's an underpowered granny shopper. In an era where non exotic/special edition IC cars will be worthless in no time, it holds no chance of being worth more than a packet of Werther's Originals in 10 years. Any investment in it will be cash down the drain. Have you considered driving it straight to the scrapyard?

[Edited on 31-12-2019 by Benzine]

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Mr Whippy

posted on 31/12/19 at 10:52 PM Reply With Quote
lol someones grumpy...cheer up its almost the new year

I look at a cars purpose more than anything, I have a 35 mile daily round trip to work and about the same over the weekend with the kid taxi run, which is mostly in the city so the up is ideal. Yeah I can't claim its powerful it has only 60bhp but I do get amazing fuel economy and that's what matters to me. As for future value, that's irrelevant as I ain't selling it and keeping it going just means I don't have to replace it, which would cost me lots of money...I want at least 20 years use out this thing!

Whilst I agree cars don't rust as bad as they did before they certainly still rust for sure, my volvo's seem to be holding up well but the family toyota's have been a complete disaster, four of them in a row taken to the scrappers due to rusted out undersides (Rav4, Almera Corolla & Avensis). The Fiesta needed a lot of work but it's sorted now but just hides in the garage.

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joneh

posted on 1/1/20 at 12:13 AM Reply With Quote
I'd save your money. I've a 2004 polo with no sign of rust (other than exhaust back box). I live right on the coast. I don't think you've got anything to worry about on it.
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Benzine

posted on 1/1/20 at 12:43 AM Reply With Quote
quote:
Originally posted by Mr Whippy
lol someones grumpy...cheer up its almost the new year

As for future value, that's irrelevant as I ain't selling it and keeping it going just means I don't have to replace it, which would cost me lots of money...I want at least 20 years use out this thing!



Can't argue with the grumpy bit

So why didn't you buy something second hand and save a tonne of cash? You said you weren't selling loads of previous cars! If you're still driving a VW Up 20 years from now I'll eat my trousers (which happen to be made of pasta)

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Mr Whippy

posted on 1/1/20 at 02:20 AM Reply With Quote
oh it was, 3 years old at 16k miles one owner bought through the Aberdeen VW dealer which they'd originally sold it and had done all the servicing. I decided to start with a clean slate and look after it rather than the usual fixing other peoples messes with an older car... My last VW was built in 1974 but it did need some welding however its still going



[Edited on 1/1/20 by Mr Whippy]

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