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Author: Subject: Brake Bias Adjuster
peter030371

posted on 4/5/20 at 11:17 AM Reply With Quote
Brake Bias Adjuster

I want to fit a brake bias adjuster knob to my balance bar setup so I can fine tune the current balance. Has anyone fitted on to a '7' style car (even better to a Striker)?

The current problem (see picture below) is that the radius of the adjuster cable comes right out the bonnet

Brake Bias cable 1
Brake Bias cable 1


If I bend it 'inside' the bonnet line then its so tight it pushes the balance bar all out of line and starts to tangle with the throttle return spring, not easy to picture this problem but this gives you an idea.

Brake Bias 2
Brake Bias 2


It has been suggested that I try something like this https://www.venhill.co.uk/cables-amp-components/fittings-amp-components/ferrules-bends.html?p=2 but wanted to see if anyone else had solved the problem first before I try and reinvent the wheel

Just googling for images of cars with adjusters fitted has given me no ideas yet.

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JimSpencer

posted on 4/5/20 at 03:01 PM Reply With Quote
Hi

Back in the day... when trying this on my Striker it got all complicated just like that! So ended up with a single master cylinder and a proportioning valve, don't think I've touched it since we set it

However, the thing you want/can now get is:-

Tilton Brake Bias Adjuster Coupling

HTH

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peter030371

posted on 4/5/20 at 03:32 PM Reply With Quote
quote:
Originally posted by JimSpencer

However, the thing you want/can now get is:-

Tilton Brake Bias Adjuster Coupling

HTH


That's perfect....sprays coffee on screen, how much

I might just consider all other options first before trying that

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obfripper

posted on 4/5/20 at 04:52 PM Reply With Quote
I've just got a standard tandem master cylinder, so haven't had to deal with this, but there's not much room to play with there.

You could try using a 90° hex drive adaptor to turn the bar, you'll need to make some couplers to adapt the bar end and adjustment cable to fit, you might be able to modify some cheap hex socket drivers for this purpose.

Something like this,
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/YATO-angle-bit-driver-for-cordless-tools-magnetic-angled-90-YT-04631/173892373691

I can't think of much else that'll turn the drive through 90° in that small space, and it's dependent on whether it will clear your throttle in all positions.

Dave

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Angel Acevedo

posted on 4/5/20 at 04:59 PM Reply With Quote
Maybe a 90 Degree Drill adapter might be suitable.

Other piece of hardware to consider is the mechanism that actuates a LP Gas Float Level It has two conical gears.
I think smething may be fabricated from these.
Or else a knob....
At least it is supposed to be adjusted and let alone once adjusted...





Beware of what you wish.. for it may come true....

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Angel Acevedo

posted on 4/5/20 at 05:04 PM Reply With Quote
quote:
Originally posted by peter030371


It has been suggested that I try something like this https://www.venhill.co.uk/cables-amp-components/fittings-amp-components/ferrules-bends.html?p=2 but wanted to see if anyone else had solved the problem first before I try and reinvent the wheel

Just googling for images of cars with adjusters fitted has given me no ideas yet.


Maybe replacing a section of that with those or a piece of stainless steel flexible tubing bent to required radius. I Have a piece that I am planning to use for my Parking Brake Cables for the same reason.





Beware of what you wish.. for it may come true....

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voucht

posted on 5/5/20 at 06:06 AM Reply With Quote
Hello,

I think that is the part you need:
https://tiltonracing.com/product/90-degree-coupler-assembly/

You just need to find a Tilton dealer that can supply it. In the company I was working for in France we bought it from JLS (James Lister and Sons) in the UK. But it was years ago so I don't know if they are still active.

Hop that will help





Sylvain
https://vouchtroadster.blogspot.com/
https://cafrazx550.blogspot.com/

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adithorp

posted on 5/5/20 at 08:18 AM Reply With Quote
I assume you don't have room to fit the cable to the other end of the bias bar.

I had similar issues in the Fury footwell. In the end a just went for it and fixed/tied the outer cable after the bend so that, when the brake is off, it tends to pull the bar straight.

The tightness in the cable causes a bit of take up of slack before it moves but I can feel the difference between that and the bar moving and back off the slack once outs moved: Works better than it sounds. I also made sure the cable was well greased and that improved it quite a bit (it was dry as supplied).





"A witty saying proves nothing" Voltaire

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peter030371

posted on 5/5/20 at 08:37 AM Reply With Quote
Thanks for all the ideas. The 90° adapter looks good but its over £100 () and may not work

Without the adapter I cannot tell for sure but it could foul the steering column when braking...this could impair braking and/or steering which would be an issue

Its given me some ideas to think about such as maybe I should come away from the bias bar with the cable in the opposite direction (towards the front of the car) and then with a larger radius come back around the engine to the dashboard. I could also put the 90° adapter on a small extension and move it away from the steering column thus solving that possible problem. Need to think it through a bit more but at least I have the time to do that at the moment

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peter030371

posted on 5/5/20 at 08:40 AM Reply With Quote
quote:
Originally posted by adithorp
I assume you don't have room to fit the cable to the other end of the bias bar.

I had similar issues in the Fury footwell. In the end a just went for it and fixed/tied the outer cable after the bend so that, when the brake is off, it tends to pull the bar straight.

The tightness in the cable causes a bit of take up of slack before it moves but I can feel the difference between that and the bar moving and back off the slack once outs moved: Works better than it sounds. I also made sure the cable was well greased and that improved it quite a bit (it was dry as supplied).


Hi Adi. Other end of the bar is right next to the clutch cylinder clevis so no chance. Don't suppose you have any pictures of your set up? Just to get me thinking

I will grease the cable once I am ready to fit it and its cut to whatever the length that works out at. Until then it one less mess I can do without

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adithorp

posted on 5/5/20 at 10:01 AM Reply With Quote
Hmm, I did wonder about the clutch. That's why I couldn't do it on mine. Can't find any pics and the car is a work so no access.

Another thought... Could you use/repurpose a gearbox/speedo 90' adapter. Probably smaller and lighter than a drill adapter.





"A witty saying proves nothing" Voltaire

http://jpsc.org.uk/forum/

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peter030371

posted on 5/5/20 at 10:07 AM Reply With Quote
quote:
Originally posted by adithorp
Another thought... Could you use/repurpose a gearbox/speedo 90' adapter. Probably smaller and lighter than a drill adapter.


Just been looking at them....

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